The following article is from a script for The Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired March 2, 2019. As you can see I’ve fallen behind on turning these into blogs but for listeners of the show I try to provide all the details that we cover on the show. We also do an on-air tasting of a representative wine from the region I cover on the show. Except for when I do wine tasting on the road the wines described here are all purchased at Total Wines in Albuquerque as they have the best wine selections for me to draw upon.

For the longest time, Monterey and the surrounding cities was a tourist Mecca and only occasionally considered a place to go for wine tasting. That changed when winemakers discovered what this cool-climate could do to make outstanding Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The sub-regions also generated a lot of interest, such as the Santa Lucia Highlands (SLH) AVA designated in 1991.

Few wine areas are right in the heart of a tourist destination, but most folks visiting Monterey and Carmel are looking more for the 250 year-old Lone Cypress Pine, Pebble Beach golf course or the Monterrey Bay Aquarium. And maybe swinging by the Hog’s Breath for a chance to see Clint Eastwood; previously the mayor of Carmel.

Monterey County AVA

Monterey County has 9 designated American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), 46,000 cultivated acres, 40 varieties and is also the state’s largest producer of Pinot Noir-based wines. This incredibly rich area for growing grapes also shows great variety in soils, marine exposure, topography, and weather conditions. Wines sourced from here must be at 85% to claim Monterey County on the label. Wine Enthusiasts magazine rated Monterey one of ten top wine destinations, the only one in California!

• 9 AVAs
  • Monterey County encompasses eight smaller AVAs: Arroyo Seco, Carmel Valley, Chalone, Hames Valley, San Antonio Valley, San Bernabe, San Lucas, and Santa Lucia Highlands; in addition to the larger Monterey appellation.
  • Monterey produces the most Chardonnay and Pinot of any US county.
  • Bordered by Gabilan Mtns to the east and Santa Lucia Highlands to the west
  • Wine growing began in 1960s and picked up steam in 1970s.
• 85 wineries
  • Bargetto Winery, Chalone Vineyard, Estancia, Holman Ranch, Hahn Family Wines, J. Lohr, Morgon Winery, Wente Vineyards

Blue Grand Canyon

Hidden beneath the surface of the Monterey Bay is an enormous submarine canyon that is sixty miles long and two miles deep. The largest and deepest on the West Coast, this canyon is also unique in its close proximity to the shoreline. Comparable in size and depth to its more visible counterpart in Arizona, this Monterey geologic wonder has been nicknamed the Blue Grand Canyon™.

Situated less than 100 yards off Moss Landing, the Blue Grand Canyon™ provides a climatic pathway that connects the deep sea to the wine growing regions of Monterey. At an estimated volume of 300 cubic miles of deep, cold water, the BGC’s vast weather effect on the viticultural districts of Monterey is manifested through fog, wind, lack of rain through the growing season, and moderate temperatures.

Thermal Rainbow

The Thermal Rainbow™ gives a succinct, visual representation of the Blue Grand Canyon’s™ influence on the temperatures and varietal selection in Monterey. Cool air off the ocean is drawn and funneled through the Gabilan and Santa Lucia mountain ranges, moving down the valley with increasing force as the day progresses. The ocean air acts as a natural air conditioning system that extends the growing season, allowing for slow, gentle ripening.

• Coolest districts in the north-closest to ocean, warmest in the south-furthest from the ocean.
• Early morning: the entire region is cool and covered by a thick marine layer.
• Temperatures at Monterey Bay north and south end around 55 degrees.
• As sun rises, the valley warms and burns off the fog at the southern end of the county.
• Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the north; Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Rhone varietals in the warmer south.

What we are tasting: Old Cannery Row Chardonnay, Monterey County 14.5% ABV $19.99

We have enjoyed many of the Wagner Family wines. Chuck Wagner makes the famed Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon wines. His son Charlie Wagner makes the Mer Soleil wines in Monterey and now a series of Chardonnay wines under the Old Cannery Row label.

• Old Cannery Row Santa Lucia Highlands: maritime, tropical fruit
• Old Cannery Row Raymond Ranch: warmer inland, natural acidity
• Old Cannery Row Monterey County: Wine Stars rated 92 points

Tasting Notes: Rich mouth coating Chardonnay that starts with vanilla, coconut and pineapple notes, followed by a green apple bright finish. The butter, oak and creamy mouth feel really comes through here and is balanced by decadent tropical fruit flavor.