Italian Sparkling Wines: From Prosecco to Franciacorta

The show for this topic aired on January 9 of 2021. It included an overview of the history of sparkling wines and Champagne. Hint: Sparklers were around earlier than you might have thought.

Even though our New Year’s Eve sparklers have all fizzed out, the love for sparkling wines has not diminished so this week we are touring Italy, scouting out the best Prosecco and other sparkers from frizzante to traditional method. We will also visit the Italian wine regions that specialize in making wine with bubbles large and small. BTW; Spumante means sparkling wine in Italian.

A Short History of Sparkling Wine

Previously on the show we have sampled Champagne and high-end domestic sparklers and discussed the history of Champagne. But Champagne was the not the first sparkling wine and not the only prestige sparkling wine house. Here we’ll cover all the areas that evolved, what is special about each and what wines to seek out in each. This is based, in part, on a Wine Enthusiast article by Layla Schlack.

Blanquette de Limoux, (1531)

Blanquette de Limoux from Languedoc was first made by the monks of Saint-Hilaire using the ancestral method, or méthode ancestral. We know this from the writings of the monks who were committed to documenting their vineyard and winemaking techniques. The fermentation was stopped early, leaving residual sugars in the wine and either a second yeast was added or airborne yeasts were trapped in the bottle and it underwent a secondary fermentation in bottle. The result was a cloudy, unfiltered wine.

This also could have been by accident as the result of winter weather halting fermentation, and then yeast waking up as temperatures climbed. Blanquette means little white. Now, there are three sparkling wine designations:

• Blanquette de Limoux: made using the traditional method 90% Mauzac
• Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Ancestrale 100% Mauzac (apple peel, cidery)
• Cremant de Limoux using Mauzac, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc
• The Mauzac grape is a white variety grown primarily in Limoux and Gaillac AOC with approximately 8,000 acres under vine worldwide.

Champagne (1729 est., shipped 1764)

Wine production started in the 17th century, when Dom Pierre Pérignon planted vines. He’s also credited with having observed the sparkling wines of Limoux and bringing the style to Champagne, but he died in 1715, before any commercial production began. Maison Ruinart, the oldest established Champagne house, was founded in 1729, and documents show it began shipping bubbly in 1764.

Veuve Clicquot was founded in 1772. Among other things, Madame Clicquot invented the riddling process to remove yeast from the bottle after secondary fermentation completed, creating the traditional method or méthode Champenoise.

Italian Prosecco (1754)

Its history is almost as long as Champagne’s, dating back to 1754. Vinified in the col fondo, or “with sediment,” style, same as the Limoux ancestral method, this wine from the Veneto was made from the native Glera grape. However, some sommeliers still refer to it as the Prosecco grape.

“For years, Prosecco was understood as the name of the grape,” Wilson says. “But as the demand for Prosecco exploded worldwide in the 21^st century, Prosecco producers in northern Italy wanted to protect their wine. So they found a village in Friuli called Prosecco, and redrew the DOC [to include it].”

Much like Champagne, producers did not want their “protected” name to be used by anyone else.

The invention of the Charmat or Martinotti method in 1895 made Prosecco much more affordable to produce. This technique dictates wines undergo secondary fermentation in a pressurized tank, and then filtered and bottled under pressure.

In Franciacorta, Lombardy meanwhile, producers began making traditional-method sparkling wines modeled after Champagne. So much so that it is unofficially called Italian Champagne.

Spain Penedés (1872)

In 1872 Josep Raventós Fatjó made sparkling wine using the traditional-method. Made with Macabeu, Parellada and Xarel-lo grapes native to Penedès, in Catalonia. His family had been making wine under the Codorníu label since 1497. Legend has it that he was so pleased with the results, he immediately called for a cave (cava) to be dug, so he could produce more, and Cava became the name of the regional designation.

California (1860s)

Sparkling wines have been produced since the 1860s, with the exception of the Prohibition era. Use of the name “Champagne,” on the labels of bottling produced here has been the topic of many international trade agreements, and was finally banned for good in 2005. A handful of historic winemakers, however, had been grandfathered in and are allowed to continue making California Champagne. Even though it is nothing like Champagne.

French Crémant designation 1975

Even though sparkling wines were made in Loire Valley, Alsace and Burgundy, it wasn’t until 1975 that the crémant term was permitted. Crémant de Bourgogne is a sparkler from Burgundy for example.

A few sparkling terms

• Perlage: French term for the pearls in a sparkling wine (champagne, sparkling wine); the finer the pearls, the better the quality.
• Spumante: An Italian term for sparkling wines, usually between 3.5 to 5 bars atmospheres. Asti Spumante, or just Asti is the area within Piedmont where the sparkling wine is made.
• Frizzante: An Italian term for a lightly carbonated wine, usually under 2.5 bars atmospheric pressure. Moscato di Asti is a frizzante wine from Asti, using the Moscato Bianco grape

Italian wine quality designations

Italy was known for their quantity, but not their quality in mid-20^th century. They even gave wicker a bad name. In 1963 Italy began forming their wine classification system, updated in 1992 and again in 2010. The EU terms are included here but only the three exported wine classifications.

• Vini IGP relates to Italian IGT wines, geographic area in Italy, viticulture/vinification practices
• Vini DOP includes two sub-classifications:
  • Vini DOC and Vini DOCG

Simply put, just look for IGP, which is often a good wine. DOC for good values and some excellent wines and DOCG for the top tier wine regions.

Italy is first in wine production and third in wine consumption. (The number one wine consumption country is the Vatican.) There are 37 wine regions within Italy and more grape varietals, over 1000, than any other country. Wines are named for the grape, the location, or both.

The Charmat Method and Volume Processing

The Charmat method was invented and patented in 1895 by the Italian Federico Martinotti, a winemaker in Asti. In 1907, Eugène Charmat, a Frenchman, made some improvements to the process and patented it under his name. Leave it to the French to call it their method. In Italy, the process is sometimes known as the Martinotti method, after its original inventor. This new winemaking technique allowed for sparkling wine production to be done in volume at a lower price than any previous method.

The Charmat method is a sparkling winemaking process that traps bubbles in wine via carbonation in large steel tanks. Also known as the metodo Italiano, the Martinotti method, or the tank method.

The Charmat method begins, like the traditional method, with the creation of a still base wine. This wine is mixed with a measure of sugar and yeast called the liqueur de tirage, then put in a large stainless steel pressure tank. The yeast and sugar cause a second fermentation in the closed tank, which is held under pressure so the carbon dioxide created is forced into the wine.

• The second fermentation takes one to six weeks, after which the carbonated wine is immediately filtered and bottled so no sediment in the bottle.
• The dosage is added at bottling, usually to brut level sweetness (6–12 grams of sugar per liter).
• Bottled without additional aging, giving wines a fresh fruit character.
• The method is ideal for wines made from aromatic grape varieties like Moscato and Riesling.
• It helps retain the grapes’ aromas more than traditional method, which introduce nutty, toasty flavors from aging on the wine’s lees.
• Charmat method has two to four atmospheres of pressure, thus softer carbonation.
• The traditional method has five to seven atmospheres of pressure.

Types of Italian sparklers

This overview was aided by a very good blog from Mike & Jeff, the Sparkling Winos. We begin in Northeast Italy above the Gulf of Venice in the Veneto and Trentino regions

Veneto

Veneto was originally part of the Republic of Venice and is located right above Venice. It is a broad region encompassing Treviso and Verona, of Romeo and Juliet fame, to the west.

Prosecco is produced from the Glera grape, in the foothills of the Veneto region of Northern Italy (in the Prosecco DOC or Prosecco DOCG). It is a light-bodied, vibrant, fresh, highly aromatic, easy-drinking style of sparkling wine made in the Charmat method. It is dry to off-dry, with medium to high acidity and large, frothy bubbles. Dominant flavors include apple, honeysuckle, peach, melon and pear.

• Prosecco DOC: Veneto and Fruili-Venezia Giula subregions
• Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG: (I know, quite the mouthful in more ways than one and good luck remembering this when you go to a wine shop.)
• The DOCG region has steep hillsides, and generate the most concentrated wines
• Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG: Another area with steep hillside across river from Valdobbiadene, formerly Colli Asolani
• Prosecco Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Rive DOCG: Adds the name of 1 of 43 communes. (As if trying to memorize everything else on the label wasn’t enough!)

Trento (Trentino)

This region is known for its sparkling wines made with Chardonnay. The grapes are trellised (pergola) to permit proper ripening. The wines exhibit yellow apple, creamy texture with toasted almond. Chardonnay is grown at a higher elevation, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier lower. The traditional method is used. These are the three grapes used to make Champagne as well.

Although Trentino now produces both still and sparkling wines, the sparklers have their own appellation—Trentodoc—created in 1993 and trademarked in 2007.

What we are tasting: Borrasca Prosecco Superiore DOCG 11% ABV, $14.99

This was Total Wines #5 of 20 top wines, i.e., the wines they are promoting. However, as soon as I saw that it came from Valdobbiadene I grabbed a bottle. This is a well-balanced sparkler with focus, fresh flavors and good mouthfeel.

Tasting notes: Beverage Dynamics-Veneto, Italy – “White flowers, Bartlett pears, and almonds layer and show the elevated quality of this Prosecco. The wine is rich while keeping a fruit forward soft side present giving a nice texture on the mid-pallet and finish.” Rated 92 points.

Franciacorta wine region (DOCG est 1995)

The next wine came from my co-host Kevin Patruznick of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits, selected by Jason who added 10 things to know about Franciacorta wines, which I’m including here.

1. AKA “Italian Champagne”: Italy’s answer to Champagne, it is made using the traditional method, exclusively from grapes grown in the Franciacorta wine zone.
2. Single-Varietal or a Blended Wine: Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Noir), Pinot Bianco (up to 50% ) and now, since 2017, Erbamat (up to 10%), a local grape, can be used.
3. There are five types, based on aging and dosage requirements: Franciacorta (18 months), Saten (24 months), Rose (24 months), Franciacorta Millesimato (30 months), and Franciacorta Riserva (60 months).
4. Franciacorta can stand up to long cellaring, which can help develop flavor and depth over time.
5. Franciacorta requires certain measures be taken to ensure quality wines are produced – hand-harvest in late August, soft pressing of the entire clusters, primary fermentation of a base wine, the creation of a cuvée, tirage (bottling of the blended wine), secondary fermentation and horizontal aging for a minimum of 18-60 months with remuage, degorgement (removing dead lees), dosage and proper labeling.
6. Franciacorta and its winemakers actively participate in sustainable practices,
7. The area is an important winemaking zone, previously known as Franzacurta, which dates back to 1277, referring to the area south of Lake Iseo, between the Oglio and Mella rivers.
8. Franciacorta is basically a large morainic amphitheater that is leftover from a glacier formed in the ice age. The remaining material was later covered in sand and silt, creating the hills of Franciacorta. The soils are rich in minerals and vines are able to thrive here for 40 + years.
9. The weather is largely continental and the area benefits from being close to waterways, which mitigate temperatures all year long.
10. It was awarded DOC status in 1967, the designation then also including red and white still wines. Since 1995 the DOCG classification has applied exclusively to the sparkling wines of the area.

What we are tasting: Ferghettina Franciacorta Rose Brut 2014 $69.99

Ferghettina Winery is located in Adro, Province of Brescia, Lombardy, Italy. I was very impressed with this wine and the bottle. It really does taste like Champagne done in an Italian style. The information below is sourced from the technical sheet at the Ferghettina website.

Winemaker tasting notes: Soft pink color. Fine and persistent perlage. The wine has very elegant aromas of blackberry with raspberry notes. Excellent length and structure.

Ferghettina currently has 470 acres under vine with an average yearly production of 500,000 bottles. Yup, they make a lot of sparkling wine in several styles. Roberto Ratti styles the wines along with his children, Laura and Matteo, both university graduates in enology. The unique pyramid bottle shape was designed by Matteo to increase lee contact for the Satèn, Rosé, and Milledì wines.

Winemaking: Pinot Noir, from vineyards at 820 feet above sea level. The vines are Guyot-trained, planted with a density of 2,024 vines per acre. Manual harvest takes place around mid-August. Fermentation is carried out in steel tanks at a controlled temperature between 60 and 64 °F. The second fermentation lasts four weeks followed by 36 months of aging on the lees.  Soft pink color with a fine and persistent perlage. The wine has very elegant aromas of blackberry with soft raspberry notes along with excellent length and structure.

Wine Enthusiast: 93 points

Field flower, wild berry, crushed herb and brioche aromas interlace on this radiant sparkler. Made entirely with Pinot Nero, it’s bright, savory and elegant, offering strawberry, pomegranate, bread crust and a hint of candied orange zest alongside a silky mousse. Bright acidity lifts the rich flavors.

Asti Spumante DOCG

One of the oldest imported sparklers from Italy comes from Piedmont (Piemonte), which is also home to Barolo and Barbaresco Nebbiolo-based wines.

• Asti wines are classified as DOCG, the wine will be fermented to have alcohol levels between 7 and 9%.
• It also implies that all Asti DOCG wines are made only from locally grown Moscato Bianco grape variety.
• This wine is made using the Charmat method also known as the metodo Italiano or the tank method.
• Moscato di Asti is around 5.5% alcohol and lower carbonation, i.e., frizzante

Italian Sparkling red

Frothy and the color of Italian prune, or Empress, plums, Northern Italy’s Lambrusco — the name of the grapes from which it’s made, as well — is a frizzante, or lightly sparkling, wine. The Emilia-Romagna province of Italy is famed for its sparkling red wine; Lambrusco.

Lambrusco DOC

Lambrusco sparklers are assumed to be very sweet vin ordinaire wines, but not always. The top 5 red versions of the Lambrusco grape are granted their own DOC. The biggest-bodied, and often best-regarded is Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, wine from the Castelvetro viticultural zone in the foothills of the Apennine Mountains, stretching north-to-south down the length of the Italian peninsula. They’re dark, grippy, bitter, and fragrant — characteristics further heightened when accompanied by the region’s chestnut-based desserts.

Note: Vitis Labrusca is a N. American grape and the source of many grape cultivars, including Catawba, Concord and Niagara. Not to be confused with Lambrusco, which, of course, it will.

Brachetto d’Acqui (DOCG est 1996)

Brachetto d’Acqui, made of the native brachetto grape in also in Piedmont. It’s a bright, fresh contrast to that more-famous Nebbiolo. The brachetto grape is particularly fond of the clay soils in the city of Acqui, in Piedmont’s Asti province: Once vinified, it makes gently red, lightly sweet wines with low alcohol and floral-tinged strawberry aromas. It’s been made regionally since Roman times, when the wine was known simply as vinum acquense, reputed to be the wine Caesar gave to Cleopatra. Not a bad legacy.

There are sparkling wines throughout Italy, but the majority of well-known and highly-regarded wines come from the northern Italian regions we have so far covered. This is not to say other part of Italy do not produce fine sparklers, but unless you are touring Italy these cover most of the bases of wine you can find locally.