This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on May 1, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
For this wine tour we are going offshore to the island of Sicily. This volcanic island figures deep in Italy’s history. Mt Etna is its most remarkable landmark, but it also serves as the breeding ground for some of Sicily’s most important wines. Here it is not uncommon to see islanders sporting a shotgun over their shoulder. And it’s not just to shoot birds.
Italian Wine Overview:
Italy is first in wine production and third in wine consumption. (The number one wine consumption country is the Vatican. Read into that what you will.) There are 37 wine regions within Italy and more grape varietals, over 1000, than any other country. Wines are named for the grape, the location, or both.
Sicily and its History
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and home to its most active volcano, Mt Etna. At times, the island has been at the heart of great civilizations, at other times little more than a colonial backwater. Its fortunes have changed depending on events out of its control. In earlier times it was a magnet for immigrants, in later times a land of emigrants. I believe the character of the people is reflected in the character of the wine.
Prehistory: The indigenous peoples of Sicily, long absorbed into the population, were tribes known to ancient Greek writers as the Elymians, the Sicani and the Siculi, from which Sicily derived its name. Phoenicians from Carthage began settling there in 11th century BCE and no doubt this was also the beginning of its grape culture.
Classical Age: The Greeks colonized Sicily in 8th century BCE founding Syracuse in 734 BCE. Both famed Greeks Empedocles and Archimedes were from Sicily. Constant battles between the Carthaginians and Greeks led to the intervention of the Roman Republic in the 3rd century BCE and the Punic Wars. The Carthaginian general Hannibal was involved in the second Punic War. He probably had trouble loading his elephants into the boats.
- For the next 600 years, Sicily was a province of the Roman Republic and later Empire, but was something of a rural backwater.
- The early Middle Ages was influenced by the Germanic Vandals and then with the Gothic wars during the Byzantine period. That was those nasty Goths and you thought that was a new Although the garb they wore was pretty outrageous.
- More bizarre was the Muslim period when in 826. Euphemius, the commander of the Byzantine fleet of Sicily, forced a nun to marry him. Emperor Michael II learning of this ordered General Constantine to end the marriage and cut off Euphemius’ nose.
- Euphemius, rather proud of his nose, killed Constantine instead but was driven out and enlisted the aid of the Emir of Tunisia to come to his aid. Boy, you just can’t make this stuff up, huh?
- Euphemius might be a euphemism for traitor!
In the High Middle Ages there was Norman period (1091–1194), followed by Hohenstaufen reign (1194–1266). In the Late Middle Ages we have the Angevins and the Sicilian Vespers, followed by the Aragonese period during which Sicilians as a people began to emerge. Well about time I think. This was followed by Aragon and Castile jointly reigning in Sicily.
- Finally the Bourbon kings decided it was time for them to take over, which led to several revolts and unification of sorts with Sardinia under Garibaldi in 1860.
Mafia reign
The Mafia became an essential part of the social structure in the late 19th century because of the inability of the Italian state to impose its concept of law and its monopoly on enforcement. A new middle class of violent peasant entrepreneurs emerged who profited from the sale of lands and established a system of clientage over the peasantry. Thus the origin of “I’ll make you a deal you can’t refuse.”
The government was forced to compromise with these “bourgeois mafiosi,” who used violence to impose their law, and acted as mediators between society and the state. Cosa Nostra is what the Mafia families called themselves. In the 1920s, Mussolini brutally fought them and many were imprisoned only to be liberated as political prisoners after the allied invasion of Sicily in July, 1943. Oops!
Makes you wonder when they had time to grow grapes? The mafia is still a force in Sicily after the assassination of two anti-mafia magistrates in 1992. Nonetheless, in the 1980s great strides were made in boosting the quality of Sicilian wines. Better farming methods and processing techniques were applied by those with the vision for Sicily’s future as a wine destination.
Geography of Sicily
Sicily almost kisses the toe of the Italian boot at Messina, there’s less than three miles between the two. Catania is the largest city in the south, with Mt Etna just north of it. Further south is Syracuse. In the north is Palermo the capital and to the west are Trepani and Marsala where the famous fortified wine of the same name originated.
MW Tim Atkin: “Sicily feels like another country: hotter, wilder, slower and a little more dangerous.”
Based on Sicily’s history that makes total sense.
Snapshot of Sicily
- Total vineyard area: 112,000ha (64% white, 36% red)
- Number of producers: 453
- Total wine production: 5.6.m hl of wine and must
- Climate: Mediterranean, but large differences between regions and picking times based on altitude and proximity to the sea. Up to a three month span for harvest.
- Number of DOCGs: 1 (Cerasuolo di Vittoria)
- Number of DOCs: 23
Prime movers in Sicily
When Franco Giacosa, an oenologist from Piedmont, arrived in 1968, he was shocked by the poor quality of the local wines. “Rustic, strong, heavy and oxidized.” He lamented, “We would avoid saying our wines came from Sicily because the image of the place was so awful.”
Marco de Bartoli planned to revitalize Marsala, campaigning to ban Marsala “speciale” (a euphemism for a wine pre-mixed with coffee, strawberries or almonds. Wow, that could compete with Annie Green Springs!
High-end Marsala wines now use Grillo, which is similar to Grenache Blanc, rather than Cataratto grapes and this wine is enjoying a revival. The top wines are made, like Sherry, using a form of the solera system, using fractional blending to make a consistent style over a period of decades. As Bartoli said, “The key to great Marsala is patience.”
Diego Planeta came to Sicily and founded the largest winery, encouraging the growers to plant different grapes than the local Cataratto and Trebbiano. In the end he imported 150 varieties. One of our sampled wines is from Planeta.
Principal grapes
Sicily makes a much higher number of white wines, many of them undistinguished, than their more popular reds, but the choice of maintaining quality, site selection and lower yields can make their best white wines worthwhile, such as Grillo, Caricante and Chardonnay.
Nero d’Avola (NEE·row duh·VOW·luh) (also known as Calabrese) is the most important and widely planted red wine grape variety in Sicily. Vast volumes of Nero d’Avola are produced on the island every year, and have been for centuries. The dark-skinned grape is of great historical importance to Sicily and takes its present-day name from the town of Avola on the island’s southeast coast. The area was a hotbed of trade and population movement during the Middle Ages and Nero d’Avola was frequently used to add color and body to lesser wines in mainland Italy.
Nero d’Avola typically has high tannins, medium acid and a strong body. However, it can also be very smooth if grown at higher elevations where cooler temperatures restrict the alcohol levels. It is made into dark, intense wines aged in oak or fresh, fruity wines. Younger wines show plum and juicy, red-fruit flavors, while more complex examples offer chocolate and dark raspberry flavors.
Nerello Mascalese (neh-REHL-loh MAHS-kah-LEH-zeh) is a highly regarded, dark-skinned grape variety that grows most commonly on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. Its wines, which have had a rapid upsurge in popularity in the last decade, have a tendency to reflect their surroundings, giving taut, fresh red wines with fruity, herbaceous flavors, excellent minerality and an earthy nuance. Nerello Mascalese wines often have a perfume reminiscent of those of the noble wines of Barolo and Burgundy.
Nerello Mascalese is a late-ripening variety, and most vines are trained in the traditional bush-vine training method, which works well in the terroir. The higher elevation of Mt Etna, up to 1,000 meters, produces wines with immense character and complexity, and without the excessive weight that often characterizes Sicilian red wines from lower altitudes.
What we are tasting: Planeta Nero D’Avola La Segreta 2018, 13% ABV, $18-$20
This wine is 100% the Nero D’Avola grape from Planeta’s Menfi winery.
Planeta is the most dynamic producer in Sicily. The winery’s home is in Menfi, close to the south coast, but it sources grapes from five different zones, making a sizeable range of stylishly packaged wines at facilities all over the island. Alessio Planeta is one of Sicily’s best winemakers, equally adept at working with indigenous and international varieties. Tim Atkin Master of Wine (MW)
Winemaker notes: Ruby red color with violet reflections. The wine has typical varietal aromas of ripe plum, cocoa, wild fruit, and flawless spiciness. On the palate, full and tannins without excess. Ideal companion for classic Sicilian cooking with pasta and sauce dishes and main meat courses.
Check out their website at planeta.it/en/ and view the breathtaking video of the island.
What we are tasting: Valle Galfina Etna Rosso 2017, 13.5% ABV, $24.99 at Total Wines
Sicily, Italy – The Valle Galfina Etna Rosso is a brilliant ruby red wine, with a rich, intense fruity aroma, smooth and well balanced palate, persistent and pleasantly tannic. It is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese grown high on Mt. Etna.
Analysis
We enjoyed both wines, but I loved the Valle Galfina, which reminded me powerfully of quality Nebbiolo wines from Barolo and Barbaresco and at a better price point than many. The tannic core was obvious from the first sip with rich red and blue fruit and wonderful aromatics. I’d rate it 91 points.
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