Washington State Riesling

This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on April 24, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.

We talked about the wines of Washington State in the past, focusing on its rising star grape; Syrah. Today we are featuring one of the state’s most prolific white wine grapes; Riesling. I’ve consumed more Riesling from here than Germany and Alsace combined, although this is their signature white wine grape as well. I’d have to admit that economics does play a part as the price of a good Riesling here is much lower than in the Old World. Styles are also different, drier in Washington, slightly higher alcohol.

Washington State wine history

Washington’s first grapes were planted at Fort Vancouver by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1825. By 1910, wine grapes were growing in many areas of the state, following the path of early settlers. French, German and Italian immigrants pioneered the earliest plantings as had been the case in many parts of the world.

• Hybrid varieties arrived in Puget Sound region as early as 1854, and by 1860 wine grapes were planted in the Walla Walla Valley.
• In 1903, large-scale irrigation, fueled by runoff from Cascade Mountain snow caps, began in eastern Washington.
• Italian and German varietals were planted in the Yakima and Columbia Valleys in the early 20th century.
• In 1910, the first annual Columbia River Valley Grape Carnival was held in Kennewick.
• By 1914, important vineyards had sprung up in the Yakima Valley—most notably those of W.B. Bridgman.
• Muscat of Alexandria vines on Snipes Mountain dating to 1917 are still producing and are considered the oldest in the state.

Prohibition in 1920 crippled a growing industry as it did in so many places, but helped spawn early interest in home winemaking. At the end of Prohibition the first bonded winery in the Northwest was founded on Puget Sound’s Stretch Island. By 1938 there were 42 wineries located throughout the state. Also in 1967 American Wine Growers and National Wine Co. merged to form what became Chateau Ste. Michelle; now the state’s largest and most important winery. It was also the first to devote itself to vinifera plantings.

• Washington State University agricultural dept focused on what grapes would grow best; headed by Chas Nagel, Geo Carter and Walter Clore.
• Clore, the “father of wine” for Washington trucked many areas of the Columbia Valley urging farmers and ranchers to plant grapes even in the face of harsh winters. I’m sure some of the farmers thought he was nuts. “What, grow wine grapes here?”
• The biggest boost to quality was the arrival of Andre Tchelistcheff; (chela – chef) one of the first Masters of Wine (MW) in California.
• It was Tchelistcheff who helped guide Chateau Ste. Michelle’s early efforts and mentored modern winemaking in Washington.

Washington State Riesling

This white grape variety originated in the Rhine region of Germany. It’s an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas and features high acidity. It is a very versatile grape used to make dry, off-dry, sweet, and sparkling white wines. Riesling wines are usually varietal pure and are seldom oaked to permit their fruity and mineral elements full expression.

• Washington State has long had a reputation for crafting world-class Riesling, with the first plantings around 1880, pre-dating statehood by at least a decade.

Today, Riesling remains a force in Washington, being the No. 4 grape, trailing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay in total tonnage harvested. It topped 40,000 tons in the 2016 harvest, doubling from the previous 10 years.

The largest user of Riesling is Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, which makes more Riesling than any single winery in the world. Just check any local supermarket, you will see that label time and again. One of their signature wines is Eroica; a joint venture of the winery and Dr Ernest Loosen of Germany

Washington Wine Regions

There are only two major wine regions; Puget Sound in the west, which experiences a lot of rain. I’ve spent a lot of time here and boy; did I mention they get a lot of rain? White wine grapes work best here like Muller-Thurgau and Melon the grape that makes the wonderful Muscadet wines. The other wine region is Columbia Valley, of which many wine lovers are familiar.

• Columbia Valley AVA established in 1984, located in eastern Washington and part of Oregon.
• Region contains 50,316 acres of vineyards and 99% of state’s wine. Napa Valley has 45,000 acres. The state total is now 60,000 acres.
• There are 14 AVAs including Walla Walla Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills, Wahluke Slope, Lake Chelam, Snipes Mountain, Ancient Lakes and Yakima Valley.
• Annual rainfall averages 6 to 8 inches and that’s dry. The Gobi Desert in Mongolia gets 7.6 inches! In Western Washington it is 35-38 inches and that’s real wet!
• The Columbia River, and snowmelt from the Cascade Mountains, supplies the region’s water
• Columbia Valley soils are predominantly loess (wind-blown silt and sand soils created by the Missoula Floods) and result in wines with increased aromatics

Check out Washingtonwine.org/explore/map for an interactive map of all the AVAs, including typographical details and weather for each AVA.

What we are tasting: Chateau Ste. Michelle 2018 Eroica Riesling 12.0%, ABV, $22

Chateau Ste. Michelle owns 3,500 acres in Washington State’s renowned Columbia Valley. The Columbia Valley American Viticulture Area (AVA) is a region separated from Seattle’s rainy, marine climate by the Cascade Mountains. I began drinking Eroica shortly after it was introduced in 1999 and it became one of my favorites. The winery now offers a number of variations.

Eroica wines are a testament to our commitment of combining Old World philosophy and technique with New World attitude. It is a winemaking collaboration between Chateau Ste. Michelle and famed Mosel winemaker Ernst Loosen, from the vineyard to the bottle. The widely acclaimed and uniquely ageable Eroica Riesling sets the bar for Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Riesling Leadership.

Tasting Notes

Eroica Riesling offers sweet lime and mandarin orange aromas with subtle mineral notes. The mouth-watering acidity is beautifully balanced by flavorful Washington Riesling fruit. To achieve their Eroica style the focus is on bright fruit with crisp acidity and enhanced minerality.

• Food Pairings: Asian dishes, Indian curries, crab, scallops and Thai cuisine
• Other than a Kurasawa Junmai Sake I don’t think there’s a better pairing with Thai.

Other Eroica wines:

• 2014 Eroica Gold Riesling (500ml): $28 Horse Heaven Hills, botrytis-infused
• 2016 Eroica XLC Dry Riesling: $45 Extended lees contact, 12 months in oak
  An example of age-worth Riesling being treated like a white Burgundy from the Cote D’or
• 2016 Eroica Ice Wine (375ml): $60
• 2011 Eroica Single Berry Select (375ml): $200 TBA, one of a few in North America. Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) competes with Sauterne for most exquisite dessert wine

Other Riesling wines

• 2020 Dry Riesling: $10
• 2020 Riesling (off-dry): $9
• 2018 Harvest Select Riesling: $9 (last year offered so far)

The winery offers over 100 different wines from their various holdings in the Columbia and Yakima Valley including many single vineyard and select wines. Domaine Ste Michelle label is for their sparklers.

What we are tasting: Kung Fu Girl 2019 Riesling, 12% ABV, $17.99

From the website: It takes an unconventional winemaker to make a totally unexpected dry Riesling. One night, Charles was eating Chinese takeout and watching a fight scene in a notorious martial arts film when he had an idea: a killer white wine made to be paired with Asian food. Just like that, Kung Fu Girl was born. And it’s been kicking ass and taking names ever since.

Photo courtesy Charles Smith website

Charles Smith

From the website: Few winemakers have a story quite like Charles Smith. Although he was born and raised an hour from Napa Valley, CA, Charles didn’t discover his love for wine until he moved to Europe. While living abroad, he managed a number of rock bands, including the famed Danish duo The Raveonettes. It was the wining and dining of a rock n’roll life on the road that sparked Charles’ passion for great wine.

In 1999, while on a road trip to Walla Walla, WA, Charles met a winemaker who convinced him to start making his own wine, true to his own story and vision. And in 2001, Charles released 330 cases of his first vintage. Eight years later, he would be named Winemaker of the Year by Food & Wine magazine and again in 2014, by Wine Enthusiast.

Charles Smith also makes: Velvet Devil Merlot, Band of Roses Rose, Boom Boom Syrah, Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon, and Eve Chardonnay

Winemaker tasting notes: White peach, mandarin orange and apricot are delivered with a core of minerality that makes this dry Riesling shimmer with energy and freshness. Ancient Lakes AVA

Tasting notes: Columbia Valley, WA- Nice, light, bright and tangy citrus fruits with peach flavors. Crisp, good clean acidity to keep the mouth watering for more. Off-dry and delicately floral.

Analysis

Neither wine disappointed, in fact they lifted the mood. The Kung Fu Girl was vibrant with crispness and bite. Bright fruit and a touch of sweetness balanced with acidity and very good with food and a good value. The Eroica was even better than I last remembered; an elegant and expressive wine from the first sip. The wine breathed a hint of earth that turned to minerality and then the fruit came in. I even think I heard the opening strains of Beethoven’s Third.