This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on June 5, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
We have not focused on the Loire Valley for several years so it is past time to correct that. My first time visiting France, I loved the Muscadet wines of the Loire Valley. In fact, they are still some of my favorite sea food wines. Since the white wines are still very popular we will review them again, but our focus will be on the red wines; many of which are under the radar for their quality.
Loire Valley Geography
The Loire Valley, spans 174 miles and is a valley located in the middle stretch of the Loire River in central France. The Loire River at 625 miles is the largest in France. The area of the Loire Valley comprises about 500 square miles so this is one big valley. The river empties into the Atlantic, while the port of Nantes is 30 miles upriver. There are four geographically-defined regions within the valley.
- In the past, Loire River was navigable for shipping so wines were know for centuries
- The Atlantic and the Loire and its tributaries have a significant impact on terroir
- Northern France weather; slightly north and west of Burgundy and warmer of late
- 185,000 acres under vine; 2/3 size of Bordeaux, 700 years of winemaking
- Loire wines defined by bracing acidity and food pairing ability
- Red grapes: Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Grolleau (Grow-loh), some Pinot Noir
- White Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Chenin Blanc
Check out: www.experienceloire.com/loire-valley-wines
The map above by experinceloire.com provides a good snapshot of this marvelous valley and the many subregions and microclimates that add to the diversity of wines from the Loire.
Lower Loire
This is the northwestern area encompassing the port of Nantes. Lower refers to where the river terminates at the Atlantic. This is home to Muscadet which often captures the scent of the sea in its best wines. Melon de Bourgogne, or simply Melon is the grape used to make these wines.
- Muscadet, Sevre-et-Maine is a key area, near Atlantic, best done sur lie, which the label usually indicates, the total area 32,000 acres
Middle Loire- Saumur-Anjou
The portion of the river between Angers and Tours is the middle Loire. Both red and white wine grapes are located here and many of its most famous wines. This region is further sub-divided into the Saumur (So-muir) Anjou to the west and the Touraine further east. This subregion produces sweet, dry, sparkling red, rose, and white wines.
Saumur-Champigny (Cham-pen-e) is a dynamic appellation made up of 3,900 acres just southeast of the castle town of Saumur. It reflects the changes that Loire Valley Cabernet Franc has undergone over the last 25 years. In part a benefit of climate change that extends the growing season to fully ripen the fruit.
Once the source of low-alcohol wines for Paris bars, Saumur-Champigny now produces rich, pure expressions with complexity allied to wonderfully pure red-fruit cores.
- Leading wines: Rose d’ Anjou, Saumur-Champigny, Savenniéres
- Savenniéres produces some of the best Chenin Blanc in world
- Clos de la Coulee de Serrant, single vineyard, $100 a bottle
- Rose d’ Anjou, from Grolleau and Gamay grpaes, rich off-dry Rose wines
- Saumur is the main source of sparkling wines outside Champagne: Crémant de Loire
Middle Loire-Touraine
This subregion surrounds the city of Tours and follows the river’s northern excursion to the city of Orléans before it heads south. This is Joan of Arc country as she was known as the Maid of Orléans and led her army to capture the city in a major battle despite being wounded.
- Cabernet Franc: Chinon, Bourgueuil (Bore-gay), St. Nicolas-de-Bourgueuil are all known for elegant, age-worthy wines.
- Vouvray: Chenin Blanc wines dry to sweet and sparkling are richly flavored and honeyed.
- The monks of Bourgueuil Abby planted Cabernet Franc in the 10th Mid-slope wines are the biggest, lower slope the brightest fruit
- Saint-Nicolas vineyards are mainly on the sand and gravel alluvial plain of the Loire’s north banks. These sites produce the lightest style of Cabernet Franc of the four appellations
Centre Loire Valley
The Centre Loire drops back to the latitude of the Touraine. The Cher River, a tributary of the Loire feeds the more western areas of Quincy (Cahn-see) and Reuilly (Re-I-yee). Sancerre and Pouilly Fume face each other across the Loire River to the east, nearly 300 miles from the Atlantic.
- Sauvignon Blanc: Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, Menetou-Salon, Quincy, Reuilly
- All Sauvignon Blanc: racy gunflint, herbal and smoky flavors, the French word Sauvignon comes from sauvage meaning wild
Chinon wine and history
Over the years, the Royal Fortress of Chinon overlooking the Vienne River has played host to countless kings and princes, from the Plantagenets to Richelieu. In 1429, Charles VII received Joan of Arc here; her mission was to convince him to re-conquer the Kingdom of France. This was the 100 years war after all. One wonders why it take so long to settle their differences.
François Rabelais was born here, and the appellation closely follows the boundaries of La Rabelaisie, the mythical land of Pantagruel and Gargantua.
When Francois wrote the first version of Gargantua in 1534 whose action was located in Chinon and the surrounding area – his native region – he laid the foundations of a philosophy of tolerance and good living that would forever mark the minds and the behavior of Chinon’s inhabitants.
The town of Chinon is situated on the banks of the River Vienne of the Touraine district. The vineyards of the Chinon AOC (Est. 1937) are on relatively steep banks of the river and the less steep slopes running northward from the hills above Chinon to the Loire. The vineyards consist almost entirely of erosion scree and gravels on top of rather hard Turonian limestone. Toward the Loire itself, this gives way to the Jurassic rock of the Loire.
In total 3,700 acres produce reds and rosés made from Cabernet Franc, although up to 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon is permitted. Typically dry and light to medium bodied. In good vintages the red wines can be cellared for 10 years or more.
Map courtesy of loirevalleywine.com
Depending on where sited the wines can be light and fruity or more tannic with high minerality. These wines also develop a velvety depth of spice flavors as they age. Though typically thought of as lighter wines, reds from good producers and strong vintages can be full bodied and well structured for aging.
- Aromas of roasted red pepper, raspberry sauce, jalapeño, raspberry compote, and wet gravel.
- On palate: sour cherry, smoky tomato, dried oregano, and sweet pepper, finish short
Loire Valley Vintages:
A succession of superb vintages (2014, 2015, 2017 and 2018) has only helped solidify the idea that Cabernet Franc wines from the central Loire Valley deserve to be taken seriously. In past ages many grape growers wondered why someone would choose this grape for the Loire. Now that belief has come to fruition. Summary is from Wine Enthusiasts.
2017: A solid follow-up to the 2015 and 2016 duo, with lower yields due to a severe spring frost. The ensuing growing season was relatively dry and warm, running one to two weeks early through harvest, and scattered rains in the second half of July helped freshen the vines. Whites are pure and precise, reds are fresh and charming. Drink or hold
2018: One of the largest crops of the decade, with favorable weather conditions throughout the year yielding concentrated wines that are a bit lower in acidity than usual. Chenin Blanc and red varieties did very well, while a streak of rain affected areas producing Sauvignon Blanc, causing some disease pressure; very little noble rot, but good ripeness overall. Drink or hold
What we are tasting: Romain Parisis 2017 Cabernet Franc Chinon, 12.5% ABV, $16.99 at Total Wine
Very youthful bright medium-ruby color. Aromas suggest cedar, cinnamon and sour cherry. Dry and quite fruity with very light tannins. This would make a wonderful winter barbecue wine.
Cherries, raspberries, cranberries, mushrooms and earth. Light, fresh, with plenty of acidity to make this a good food wine. A little spicy finish tops it off. Quite nice!
What we are tasting: Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2018, ABV 14.1%, $27
Cuvée Terroir is born of a parcel of vines just west of Chinon known for its mysteriously Mediterranean vegetation. Fragrant pines replace the emblematic plane trees that typically line the river Vienne, and tiny wildflowers called silènes pop up in the sandy soil amid the vines, a colorful symbol of the area’s extraordinary biodiversity. Domaine Joguet lets the terroir speak for itself, aging the wine in stainless steel to respect its supple, delicate freshness. They call it their “vin des copains”: the wine you want to open with friends, and frequently.—Emily Spillmann
The vineyard is 26 acres of 30 years average in soil that is siliceous alluvial sand. Organically Farmed.
From Kermit-Lynch:
Charles Joguet, a young painter and sculptor, abandoned a budding art career to assume direction of the family domaine in 1957. He questioned the common practice of selling grapes to negociants, as his family had for years. The Joguets owned prime vineyard land between the Loire and Vienne Rivers with distinct variations in the soils. To sell the grapes off or blend the individualized plots together would have been madness. Charles believed separate terroir necessitate separate vinification. He took the risks necessary to master single-vineyard bottling with an artistry that Chinon had never before seen. Charles has since retired. Today Kevin Fontaine oversees the vineyards and the cellars.
Analysis
What a difference a year makes, huh? The 2018 cranks out 14.1% alcohol, the 2017, 12.5%. The selection of a specific terroir was another influence. The 2017 was a bit lighter, but I loved the structure and flavor profile. It was closer to a red Burgundy, while the 2018 was more Rhone-like in taste and body. I did prefer the 2017 and believe it’s a better food-pairing wine, but that’s just my palate and either choice is a good one. However the 2018 might be harder to find.
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