Old World Rosé Wines: France and Italy

This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on June 19, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.

Last week we covered Rose wines from the Rhône Valley. However, with the booming popularity of Rosé and the unrelenting heat waves hitting much of the US it became necessary to expand our search. I considered, while sitting on our back patio in 90 degree heat, do I want a red wine now to go with my salmon dish? Nope, pulled out my last Rosé and realized; I need more Rosé!

The French understand Rosé wines; they make a ton of them, they export a boatload, but they consume even more than go out the door. Last week we featured three Rhone Valley Rosé wines. There were two done in a style similar to Provence, the wine region next door to the Rhone. We also sampled a Tavel that traditionally is more extracted and higher alcohol but it is world-famous for that style.

Today we are casting a wider net to snare other French Rosé as well as Italian versions traditionally called Rosato.

Rosé  Styles

Many of the lighter pink and crisper Rosé wines, such as classic Provence are more in demand, and dominate wine shelves. Newer emerging wine regions have taken note, but many traditional regions continue to make their wines as they always have. Variety is the spice of life in wine as in many things.

There is a place on the table for all Rosé. However, on a hot summer day this style has less refreshment and lift so it makes sense to have lots of the truly pink Rosé chilling in your fridge. There is in mine.

Color and bottle design

Last week we talked about Rosé bottle designs, which are as varied as the color of the wine. Clearly some manufacturers don’t care if their bottle fits in your wine cellar, let alone a mini-fridge. It almost seems like there is competition for who will have the tallest bottle or the most original shape. Well, this week will be no exception.

The following information was also presented last week. If you read that blog, thank you, and you might want to skim down unless you want the refresher.

Rosé Wine Basics

Rosé wines are made by removing the skins quickly from red wine grapes, using one of four processes

• Saignée (sohn-yay) or bleeding method: Free run juice, around 10%, bled off for Rosé and permits two wines to be made; Rosé and a richer more intense red wine.
• Free-run juice comes from un-pressed grapes, which can be:
  • Blended back into the wine
  • Sold as a free run juice wine, which has lower tannin, potassium
  • Sold as Saignée Rosé, which has intense, dark colors and uses the juice after 2 hours to 2 days of runoff before pressing and fermented separately
  • Because the primary wine is red, grapes are harvested later than typical Rosé
• Maceration, similar to conventional red wine, but juice taken off skins after 3 – 24 hours
  • The grapes are harvested earlier than for red wine to preserve acidity and red fruit flavors and brighter notes
• Vin Gris: Grey wine, lighter skin grape like Pinot Noir and Pinot Grigio, color is pale, not normally grey. There is also no maceration time as is typical of saignee method.
• Blending red and white wines to create Rosé, typical of many Champagne Rosé wines

French Rose

If we tried to chart where French Rose wines are made, there are few places that don’t do them regularly, although demand has certainly influenced that. If one includes sparkling Rose then even Champagne and Burgundy are making it. But for still wines, all that’s required is having enough red wine grapes to make a lighter, crisper Rose as those using the saignée process have done for decades.

Rhone Valley

Having the most popular grapes for Rose makes this valley a good choice as we showed last week with three very good examples. Using Grenache, Syrah, Mourvēdre and Cinsault among others there are lots of lighter and fuller-bodied examples.

Provence

To the east of Rhone and along the French coast is Provence. Most Rose comes from 4 subregions:

• Côtes de Provence is the largest AOC, and the biggest producer with about 75% of wine production (of which 89% is Rosé), this region is also the most diverse in climate, altitude of vineyards, soils and rainfall. Harvest times can range up to 60 days.
• Coteaux d’Aix en Provence is second in size, and heavily influenced by the Mistral winds. Rosé is usually a blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise.
• Coteaux Varois de Provence or “The Heart of Provence”, is in the middle of Provence. No surprise there. It features undulating limestone mountain ranges so there are a multitude of ‘meso-climates’.
  • Vineyards at these slightly higher altitudes are cooler so the grapes benefit from longer, slower ripening, giving the finished wines good acidity, complex flavors and structure.
  • Rosé wines are crafted from Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah.
• Bandol has well drained sandy marl and limestone soils perfect for heat loving, late ripening Mourvèdre. The Rose wines are richer and more extracted than classic Provence Rose. And often more expensive, but worth it.

Loire Valley

We were last here a few weeks ago sampling Cabernet Franc wines that also work for Rose with less tannin than its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon and bright red fruit. Gamay is also popular here and Grolleau (Grow-loh), which are the basis of Rose d’Anjou; a lush, off-dry wine that even pairs with grilled meats. Cabernet Franc wines sometimes use the saignee process for Rose

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Rosé is made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon varieties in which a slight blush or pink color is derived from brief skin contact. The wines are dry and have appealing young cherry and strawberry fruit; and work when summer heat makes a Left Bank Grand Cru a poor choice.

The most famous estates in Bordeaux typically do not make a rosé, rather it is large firms that produce small quantities; as these wines are not in great demand but prices are good and they have their own distinctive taste profile.

• In some vintage years a chateau might employ saignee to enrich the red, but lose the crispness a earlier harvest time would yield. Nonetheless who wouldn’t want any juice from a Margaux?
• Bordeaux Rose often has a blue tint because of the terroir which fades to orange

Languedoc-Roussillon

This subregion in southern France has been making more and more quality wines and Rose is no exception. Located to the west of the Rhone Valley, it extends along the Mediterranean Sea to the Spanish border. It contains both coastal, valley and mountainous areas.

• Languedoc covers the northern part and close to the coast
• Roussillon is more southerly, with some subregions further from the coast
• There are 27 subregions and 8 subregions within the subregions, making learning about this region so much fun. Well, fun for us wine geeks anyway.
• Rhone grapes Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Carignan.
• Largest wine region in the world, 700,000 acres, 1/3 of French production.
• Sable de Camargue, at the mouth of the Rhone delta is known for its vin gris Rose
• The paired region is also part of the Occitanie Region of France since 2016

“In the Languedoc, there’s almost no constraint and no preconceived notions when it comes to making rosé,” Victoria James, sommelier at New York’s Cote and author of Drink Pink: A Celebration of Rosé.

Map courtesy Vineyards.com Excellent wine maps, check them out

With the Mediterranean coast on the east and the Pyrenees to the south, the region’s varying terroir make a broad spectrum of rosés. Diversity in soil types, ocean breezes and Southern France’s sun provide the environment for unique vintages and colors from unripe peach to deep coral.

What we are tasting: Bertrand Cote Des Roses 2019 Rosé, 14.1% ABV, $11.97 at Total Wines

A well-regarded Rosé blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault in yet another unique bottle shape. One hopes as much thought went into the making of the wine as what type of bottle to put it in. The base of the well-tapered bottle is a sculpted rose. Seriously! Just be careful the cap is on it before you tip it over to check.

The glass closure is another innovation many white and Rosé wines use in the old world. These work great on many bottles and provide a secure closure with little head space. Save them!

Winemaker Notes: A wine to celebrate the Mediterranean Art of Living! Its originality lies in its original rose-shaped bottle, created by a young designer from Ecole Boulle.

The Rosé is a soft, pale, brilliant pink with bluish tints developing over time towards more orangey nuances. The bouquet releases aromas of summer fruits, cassis, and redcurrant. Floral notes of rose along with hints of grapefruit complete the picture. The finish is fresh, offering notes of candy. On the palate, the impression is fresh and full, with great aromatic persistence and balance.

Wine Enthusiast 91 points: “A pale coppery-pink color, this rose made from Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault opens with aromas of freshly pressed sweet pea and peony combined with notes of white cherry and watermelon rind. The palate is light and easy to enjoy, but with a ripe-fruit character.”

Italian Rosato

There are many different types of Italian Rose, which they call Rosato. Some vintners use the salasso or “bleeding” technique, called Saignée in France. Other producers prefer selecting and harvesting grapes specifically for making Rosato. Many different grapes are employed as one would expect in a country with the diversity of grapes and styles that Italy has. The primary Rose regions are:

• Veneto region has long been popular for Prosecco and Pinot Grigio, but is becoming more popular for its Rose as well.
• Rosato production in Tuscany, one of Italy’s premier red-wine regions, has taken off over the last several years. Producers use a plethora of grapes, from noble, native Sangiovese to international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon.
• Nestled between the peaks of the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea, Abruzzo’s hilly and coastal wine regions are well suited to the Montepulciano grape. The region’s main variety is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but the grape is also used to make the bold, cherry-hued rosatos of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.
• Puglia is defined by an endless turquoise coastline speckled with white sandy beaches and quiet seaside towns. This southern Italian locale has proved perfect for Rosato. Rosato production dates back more than 75 years.
• Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and its wine scene is booming, and rosato production is no exception. Bottlings from both native and international grapes are produced across its landscape, with colors that range from light onion skin to deep pink. They can be fruity or floral, but nearly all showcase a savory salinity.

Map courtesy of Wine Folly

Puglia (Apulia) wine region

Located on the heel of the Italian boot and I mean that in a positive way because of the influences of the sea and the rich soil that has made Primitivo such a popular wine. Besides Primitivo there is Negroamaro and Bombino Nero, often used for Puglia Rose. Puglia with its dry, hot weather, moderated by the sea on three sides also produces much of the country’s olive oil.

Negroamaro grape, which in Italian means “black bitter.” Dry red wine made from Negroamaro has flavors of ripe plum, baked raspberries, and spice-cabinet notes like anise, allspice and cinnamon. Even though Negroamaro is full bodied it is not too tannic or acidic, and instead leads with bombastic fruit which makes it easy to chug, especially alongside meatballs or pizza. I’d suggest less chugging in a savory Rosato.

What we are tasting: Tormaresca 2018 Rose, Calafuria, 12% ABV, $17

Terroir: This wine comes from the Tormaresca’s Masseria Maime estate near San Pietro Vernotico, a 1,235 acre estate close to the sea in the Salento DOC region. It runs along the Adriatic coast, creating a unique landscape of vineyards that are among woods and pine forests and continue until they merge with the sea.
Philosophy: Passion, courage, and confidence in the immense quality potential of Puglia are all elements that inspired the Antinori family to invest in this region – particularly in the areas of Castel del Monte and Salento.

Background: The vision behind the Tormaresca winery was to produce top-quality wines from Apulia’s indigenous grape varieties. Most of the estate’s vineyards are planted with traditional varieties, some dating back to the era of Magna Graecia (Great Greece), which are well established in this territory: Primitivo, Negroamaro, Fiano Pugliese, Aglianico, Nero di Troia and Moscato Reale.

Winemaking: The wine is composed of 100% Negroamaro The grapes were selected manually, delicately destemmed, and given a soft pressing. The must went into stainless steel tanks. Fermentation took place at 61° Fahrenheit to preserve aromatics of these brightly flavored grapes. A brief aging period in stainless steel tanks and a four month period of bottle aging preceded release.

Tasting notes: Shows fresh hints of white fruit such as peaches and lychee blended with delicate floral notes of roses and wisteria. Savory and refreshing.

Analysis

Two more well done Rose wines. The Bertrand comes from a respected winemaker whose vision and attention to detail is creating many wonderful wines. This is a producer to watch, or better yet, enjoy the wines. The Rosato, from a very different grape, shows it also makes a fine Rosato from a wine region that is gaining in attention and popularity. By the way, I am holding on to my Cote de Roses bottle and cap!