French Sparkling Wine: Crémant

This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on July 3, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.

Since this show aired just before July Fourth; we had one more go at French sparkling wine. Last weekend we covered champagne, which is a classic for celebrations and holidays. However the two wines we sampled on the show were not just showstoppers, but hard on the pocketbook. However, if a fine French sparkler is what one is looking for, a French crémant is a perfect place to begin.

It was Madeira the founders drank in celebration of the signing, but Champagne and sparkling wines are more commonly chosen now. Sparkling wines have been with us for centuries, but they did not originate in Champagne. Nonetheless every other sparkling wine producer wishes they could put champagne on their label. And all the quality houses use the méthode champenoise or traditional method.

Sparkling wine history and Limoux

Dom Pérignon is the celebrated monk who pioneered the concept of Champagne as we know it today. However he spent most of his life trying to get rid of those pesky bubbles that kept shattering his wine bottles. He did introduce blending of grapes to improve the flavor and making white wine from red grapes. He was by all accounts a superb winemaker.

Before Dom Pérignon even entered the abbey at d’Hautvillers he had spent time in the south of France and might learned about sparkling wines in Limoux. A sparkling wine was virtually unheard of back then and it’s possible the Dom used the information to try to eliminate the bubbles in Champagne. Since sweet wines were the norm, the amount of residual sugar and the presence of airborne yeasts could induce a secondary fermentation in any bottle. The cleanliness levels of a modern winery were not a concern of early winemakers.

In Limoux the amount of residual sugar might have been less insuring a lower level of carbon dioxide that did not burst the bottles, or they might have used thicker bottles. However, when some of the Champagne still wine was sent to England in wooden barrels and bottled there the pressure did not burst them because they used coal-fired kilns that considerable strengthen the bottles.

The English also re-introduced the cork stopper they used on these wines. In 1662, the English scientist Christopher Merret, in a paper theorized that the presence of sugar in the wine could cause the carbonation.

I’m sure when they first attempted to open a bottle we might have had our first eye causality from a flying cork. But when they tasted the wine they probably realized; “hey we’re onto something here.” And thus the English claim that they invented champagne, which while not technically true would surely have goaded the French.

Over time new innovations improved the Champagne method. Madame Clicquot came up with the idea of riddling, which was a way to remove the spent yeast cells and sediment. Prior to that time the wine would have been cloudy, although it still would have tasted fine. In Louis XV day the bubbly was slammed like a tequila shot and the coupé overturned to drain the sediment. The champagne flute did not appear until the 1950s.

Sparkling wine grapes

The classic grapes in the Champagne region are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. However many different grapes can be employed to make a sparkling wine. Pinot Noir is often the red grape of choice for Rose and Pinot Meunier much less frequently outside of Champagne. On the other hand many white wine grapes have been employed for sparkling wines. Generally the best white wine grape in a region is the one selected.

Types of Sparkling Wines

Regardless of the wine grapes use, there are two ways of making a sparkling wine; the champagne method or the Charmat bulk process. In the Charmat process the secondary fermentation is done in a large pressured tank, not in the bottle, which considerably shortens production and is less costly. The bubbles are not as fine, frog’s eyes as the French would call it.

Mouthfeel

The other reason the traditional method is preferred is in the mouthfeel. The mousse is generated by the small, intense bubbles that surge up from the glass base. The nucleation site within the glass will also alter the bubble activity. The effect on the mouth is like a fine meringue that one savors long before swallowing.

• Non-Vintage (NV): The most traditional of all sparkling styles. These are a blend of multiple varieties and vintages of wine. The goal is to blend a consistent wine every year. Minimum aging is 1.5 years in Champagne. Some producers call it multiple vintages.
• Vintage: In Champagne, there have been 46 years denoted as vintage years in the last 60 years. Vintage Champagnes are aged a minimum of 3 years prior to release. Other regions might not follow this pattern, but Gruet as one example does not make a vintage sparkler every year.
• Cuvée de prestige: The tête de cuvée or “Grande Cuvee” of a Champagne house–the very best wine a house produces. The term is used by other producers; many by Champagne houses located in California for example.
• Blanc de Blancs A sparkler made completely of white grapes like Chardonnay.
• Blanc de Noirs: A sparkler made completely with black grapes, such as Pinot Noir and less commonly, with Pinot Meunier.
• Rosé: In Champagne, typically a blend of white and red wine to create a pink wine prior to secondary fermentation. Other areas might do a conventional Rose method.

Details of Champagne Method

While fizz in a wine can be by accident, the champagne method was a way to deliberately induce a second fermentation even though it took a while to perfect.

• The liqueur di tirage is a mix of yeast, wine and sugar added to induce a second fermentation.
• The riddling process gradually tilts the bottle until it is nearly inverted and the sediment has moved into the bottle’s neck. It was developed by Madame Clicquot.
• The disgorgement removes the sediment by freezing the bottle neck before extracting the plug
• Finally a dosage or liqueur d’expedition of wine and sugar is added to top off the wine.

Early on the dosage could be up to 100 grams per liter, which is very sweet indeed.

• Brut Nature – no added sugar and under 3 grams per liter of residual sugars
• Extra-Brut – between 0 and 6 grams per liter of residual sugars
• Brut – less than 12 grams per liter of residual sugars
• Extra sec (or Extra Dry) – between 12 and 17 grams per liter of residual sugars
• Sec (or Dry) – between 17 and 32 grams per liter of residual sugars
• Demi-Sec – between 32 and 50 grams per liter of residual sugars
• Doux – more than 50 grams per liter of residual sugars

In Champagne, since the late 20^th century, early 21^st century the warming trend permitted a longer hang time, riper grapes, better farming techniques, and less reliance on sweeter dosage. While brut wines have been around for some time, we are now seeing Extra-brut, Zero Brut and Brut Nature wines.

Crémant: the Other French Sparkler

Near the end of the 1980s a new term, crémant, was defined to identify French sparkling wine from other regions. Production rules insist on hand harvesting, gentle pressing, bottle fermentation and a minimum of nine months aging on lees, but differ according to the predominant grape varieties of the respective regions. For example; in Alsace, sparklers are made from Pinot Blanc and Riesling; in Burgundy, obviously Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also Aligoté.

Map courtesy of Wine Folly

The wine regions that want to use the term ‘Crémant’ have to get clearance from INAO, France’s national appellation body. As Decanter magazine described it, “an often joyless, bureaucratic procedure that can take years to reach fruition.” There are currently eight Crémant regions.

We covered part of the Languedoc-Roussillon region last week, but Crémant de Limoux, high in the foothills of the Pyrenean Mountains, is where sparkling wine originated and was documented. The grapes are Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and a local favorite, Mauzac, which has its own sparkling wine designation: Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale.

The French Crémant regions

• Crémant de Bordeaux: Merlot and Cab Franc
• Crémant de Bourgogne; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté
• Crémant d’Alsace: Primarily made from Pinot Blanc, but Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are allowed. Rose must be 100% Pinot Noir
• Crémant de Loire: Primarily Chenin Blanc, but also Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc
• Crémant de Die is a French appellation for dry sparkling wines from vineyards around the town of Die. Fortunately the town is not pronounced die but day. Otherwise saying you were going to Die would have been alarming.
• This small region lies in the eastern part of the Rhône region. Crémant de Die wines are made from a minimum of 55 percent Clairette, finished with an addition of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Aligoté.
• Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains is a very old grape, small berries, very aromatic and fruity, and contrasts with Muscat of Alexandria which has large berries. So very different clones of Muscat.
• Crémant de Jura A region between Burgundy and Switzerland (2,000 Ha, 4942 acres).
• Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc-Roussillon)
• Crémant de Savoie was authorized in 2014
• Savoie is in the French department of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in eastern France, below Jura; an area of isolated vineyards of about 2,000 Ha, 4942 acres.

Alsace Wine Region

The Alsace is situated on its boundary with Germany with the Rhine as a natural border. That border was porous with both countries claiming it; most recently Germany during WWII. That means the language, architecture, foods and wine grapes all reflect two cultures. The Riesling grape is drier than in Germany and higher in alcohol.

Alsatian wine is very aromatic. Floral and peachy aromas tease the nostrils and tingle the palate with brilliant acidity but also possess rich texture from moderate alcohol. The producers in Alsace do not use oak aging to add spice and richness; instead relying on a balance of ripeness and alcohol to flesh out the flavor.

Geography

Alsace’s capitol city is Strasbourg. The region is in the eastern side of France in a valley along the Rhine River. The valley extends over sixty miles with the Vosges Mountains to the west. The region is divided into two parts:

• The Bas-Rhin is to the North and to the west of Strasbourg
• Haut-Rhin is to the South in low slopes of the Vosges Mountains, home to the best vineyards

Wine quality is defined by 3 major AOCs

• Alsace AOC (92% white still wines). Named grape must be 100%. White, Rose and red are permitted. Rose and red must be 100% Pinot Noir.
• Crémant d’Alsace AOC is the only AOC that allows the local Chardonnay grapes; however most of the white brut-style bubbly is made with Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Auxerrois, and Riesling. Rosé wine is a special find because it’s 100% Pinot Noir.
• Alsace Grand Cru AOC has a total of 51 grand cru plots that are only allowed to use a single variety or blend of four official grape varieties, called the Noble Grapes of Alsace: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Gewurztraminer.

The Alsace has around 40,000 acres under vine with percentages listed below:

• Riesling 22%, Pinot Blanc 21%,               Gewurztraminer 19.5%,                                Pinot Gris 15%
• Pinot Noir 10%, Sylvaner 7.5% (a German grape)                               Muscat under 2.5%
• The remainder is about 2.5%. In other works nearly 90% white grapes.

What we are tasting: Anne de K Crémant d’Alsace, Blanc de Blancs Brut, ABV 12%, $21.99 at Total Wines

The producer is Cave Kientzheim Kaysersberg – Anne Boecklin. This sparkler is a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Auxerrois.

Wine Enthusiast -Alsace, France – “There is something lifted on the nose that translates as white currant and dried lemon peel on the palate. Autolysis provides a canvas for the fruity notes. The fine mousse supports this beautiful balance, while the dry finish shines with lasting lemon flavors.” Anne Krebiehl MW 91 points

Languedoc-Roussillon and Crémant de Limoux

As we mentioned previously, the first sparkling wines of France were made in Limoux, which still makes an ancient version of this wine as well as the more modern version called Crémant de Limoux. In1531, the monks of Saint Hilaire discovered the first wine with bubbles. The monks documented their findings and later Dom Pérignon might have read about the phenomenon.

Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this subregion of Languedoc possess the cooler temperatures needed to permit a long growing season for the classic grapes of Limoux. The white grapes are Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and a local favorite, Mauzac, a rustic grape with unique apple-peel flavors.

AOC classifications

• Blanquette de Limoux: Permits three grape varieties: Mauzac (a minimum of 90% of the wine), Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc. The grape varieties are vinified separately prior to assemblage and bottled. Just before bottling, a tirage is added to the blend so that a second fermentation will take place in the bottle. After nine months, the bottles are opened and disgorged before a final corking.
• Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale: Defines a sweetish sparkling wine made in the old-fashioned way, without It is produced in the same area as Blanquette de Limoux, but may only contain Mauzac.
• Crémant de Limoux: Crémant de Limoux contains 40-70% Chardonnay, 20-40% Chenin Blanc, 0-20% Mauzac and 0-10% Pinot noir. AOC regulations dictate that the wine be aged for a least a year on the lees prior to disgorgement.
• Limoux: Prior to 1993 this AOC was white wine only using Mauzac. Now Chardonnay comprises 85%, 15% Mauzac. Red wine was classified in 2003 with Merlot (50%), Grenache, Malbec and Syrah. Carignan a popular grape in other parts of Languedoc is being phased out.

What we are tasting: Gerard Bertrand Cuvee Thomas Jefferson Crémant de Limoux Brut 2016, 12.5% ABV, $20

This crémant comes with quite a story as the technical sheet describes. This was the only sparkling wine found in Thomas Jefferson’s wine cellar so he was an early fan. He was also a certified wine nut like myself and cultivated many French wines. Well he was an ambassador to France at one time and what else would you do if you loved wine?

Tech sheet summary:

Crémant Thomas Jefferson reveals a beautiful, golden yellow robe. Complex, aromatic nose revealing hints of white flower, with hints of honey, green apple and toast. Crisp, elegant structure on the palate, where the fine texture of the bubbles complements the wine naturally.

Freshly dried straw, soft toast, lightly grilled yellow apple and a touch of dried lemon peel form the nose of this dry, attractive sparkler. The palate is bright and bubbly, with initially aggressive carbonation that mellows fast on the palate and yields a round, ripe yellow orchard-fruit flavor. Smooth and clean, the finish leaves you ready for more. Lauren Buzzeo

Analysis

Considering the price of these two crémant sparklers I was impressed how good they were. It was like trying champagne for the first time, but with an entirely different flavor profile. The Alsace was almost ethereal and delicate and features two my favorite white wines from Alsace; Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. I was not familiar with the third grape, Auxerrois, but now I’m intrigued. The Limoux sparkler was another revelation, richer, with a bit more weight, and loads of fruit. These are two wonderful sparklers I’m adding to my wine cellar, and you might decide the same thing.