This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on July 24, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
While Chardonnay is the most planted white wine grape, the types and flavors can vary widely as the grape lends itself to many variations in style. The most obvious is the Old World Chardonnay style; represented primarily by France. Most European countries have plantings; sometimes as a blending grape, often in sparkling wines. Italy has a long history with the grape, although often mistaken it for Pinot Blanc. The latest DNA typing suggests it is a cross of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc an almost extinct variety sometimes derisively labeled a peasant grape, but it helped produce a noble grape, so maybe the peasants got the last laugh.
In the New World at last count there were 34 clonal varieties to choose from, which signal the particular style a grower is trying to establish. Those styles might be Burgundian, particularly if they are French vignerons or love the French style. In other cases the terroir could dictate part of the style, or a grower might be fully committed to a California style, or an Australian style, etc. There are traditional styles that have long endured and fads that take off for a while and then quickly fade.
California Chardonnay styles
California Chardonnay has evolved and changed over time. It’s hard to believe now that in the 1960s less than 200 acres were planted in what Jon Bonne of Punch magazine calls the first wave of this grape in California. In the 1980s many of the wines became sappy, low acids, slightly sweet and trading the fruit flavors, which weren’t well-developed for oaky, buttery notes. These came to be called oaky, buttery Chardonnay or OBC. Still Kendall-Jackson has made good money on them and many people still search out this type of Chardonnay.
These uninspired wines led to another TLA, namely ABC, anything but Chardonnay. I’ve even seen this category on restaurant wine lists. The switch to Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and even Viognier was the result. One of my favorite Chardonnay wines was the late Jim Clendenen’s Au Bon Climat, which always produced dazzling wines and never stooped to over-oak or over-MLF his wines. Malolactic fermentation (MLF) is a process to convert malic acids, such as found in apples to lactic acid found in butter, which trades crispness for buttery notes.
In case you wondered, TLA means three letter acronym. I received lots of groans from my computer science students when I revealed it.
Another counter-style that came out in this era was with stainless-steel fermentation and no time in oak, which did have to rely on good fruit. For some these non-oaked wines tasted somewhat thin, because the oak can add to the weight of the wine. Sometimes called the Chablis-style, but often lacking the minerality of good Chablis, which seldom is made with oak.
The switch back to oak came with rich fruit flavors, sometime longer hang time and a more judicious use of oak. That is more neutral oak, or partially neutral and French cooperage or other European oaks and away from some American oak. As American oak barrels have improved, using air-drying rather than kiln, one can assume this will change, too.
California Top Chardonnay Wine Regions
The stunning win of Chateau Montelena over top white Burgundies in 1976 was surely a spur to other growers to plant the grape. Many of the best areas for California Chardonnay are located along the coast, or in valleys with maritime influences and extended growing seasons. Mountainous regions also provide cooler, longer growing seasons.
Mendocino:
Anderson Valley, the coast, inland higher elevation produce excellent, balanced wines. There is a wealth of good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Anderson Valley.
Napa Valley:
Some of the richest Chardonnay wines come from Napa, with Valley versions different from mountainous areas like Spring Mountain, Atlas Peak and Diamond Mountain. Some of the best come from Carneros where San Pablo Bay permits a longer growing season.
The Central Coast
This is one of the largest wine regions in the world, but is really made up of a number of broad AVAs and subregions and a variety of wines and styles. This coastal area extends from San Francisco to Santa Barbara and that’s a long way.
Santa Cruz Mountains:
Since I lived in the foothills and explored much of this area, I’ve enjoyed many Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. The Chards are often savory, with rich fruit and structure and less oak influence.
Monterey:
Not just a vacation destination, Monterey Bay has been making Chardonnay wines for quite some time. The Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco produce outstanding examples. The Blue Grand Canyon is:
- One of the world’s deepest marine canyons
- The only marine canyon that directly impacts a major wine growing region
- Its deep, cold waters influence weather throughout Monterey County
Paso Robles:
We just explored this area for its Zinfandel wines and it is most noted for its red wines, but more mountainous areas, such as the Adelaide region are good for Chardonnay and other white wine grapes.
San Luis Obispo:
Morro Bay and the Pacific produce a prime influence for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. SLO Coast is the proposed AVA name for the Morro Bay coastal area that already has Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley AVAs defined.
Santa Barbara:
Our final trip down the central coast lands us in Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Rita Hills. Within the Santa Maria Valley is Bien Nacido Vineyards, which is where Au Bon Climat is located. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are as good here as anywhere in the world.
Sonoma County:
The main focus is on Sonoma, since one of our Chardonnay wines comes from here. There are 17 wine subregions in Sonoma County, with over 70,000 acres of vines under cultivation. Sonoma County is the broadest definition for wines not defined by one of the wine regions or when grapes come from multiple areas within the county. The 9 regions known for Chardonnay are listed along with the dates the AVA was approved and total acreage. Information below is from sonomawine.com.
- Bennett Valley (2003) is in the northwest corner of Sonoma Valley, specializing in Merlot and provides a cool growing region for Chardonnay. 700 acres, 17 wineries
- Carneros (1983) is the largest and only AVA that spans Sonoma and Napa counties. 6481 acres and 22 wineries call this home.
- Chalk Hill (1983) directly below Alexander Valley and east of RRV is known for mineral-driven Sauvignon Blanc & Chardonnay wines. Chalk Hill is named for its chalky white ash soils. 1491 acres and 5 wineries are located here.
- Green Valley (1983) is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma County. It’s very tightly delineated, both geographically and climatically, and is the most consistent of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. 2860 acres and 10 wineries.
- Petaluma Gap (2017) is the newest AVA and gateway to Sonoma County wine country. Only 25 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge, Petaluma Gap vineyards are tucked into valleys and scattered on hillsides in a rural open space of 4000 acres and 9 wineries..
- Russian River Valley (1983) spans Santa Rosa and Healdsburg and is greatly influenced by the river which empties into the Pacific and produces a cool, long growing season for world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 13,896 acres and 94 wineries.
- Sonoma Coast (1987) extends from San Pablo Bay to the border with Mendocino County. The appellation is known for its cool climate and high rainfall relative to other parts of Sonoma County. 4725 acres and 7 wineries.
- Sonoma Mountain. (1985) the 2,400-foot Sonoma Mountain range rises above the town of Glen Ellen at the western edge of the Valley of the Moon. 667 acres and 3 wineries.
- Sonoma Valley (1981) the appellation is bordered by two mountain ranges: the Mayacamas Mountains to the east and the Sonoma Mountains to the west. It’s the center of Sonoma’s winemaking history and known for its unique terroir. 5565 acres and over 100 wineries.
What we are tasting: Martin Ray Sonoma Coast 2019 Chardonnay, 13.8% ABV, $19.99 at Total Wines
I’ve found Martin Ray to be one of the more dependable and reasonably-priced wineries in California. Founded in 1943 and named for the legendary winemaker; their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines have always been spot on.
From the website:
The name Martin Ray resonates deeply in the history of California Winemaking. Martin Ray was a pioneer, dedicated to crafting single varietal, region specific wine from 1943 through 1972 in Saratoga, in the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Mentored by Paul Masson, he took a Burgundian approach to his winemaking, and developed what is now one of the most historical properties in California, known as Mount Eden.
Nearly twenty years later, Courtney Benham stumbled upon 1500 cases of Martin Ray wine in a San Jose warehouse. (How do you stumble upon 1500 cases?) Recognizing his good fortune, and his intent and drive to produce terroir driven wines, Ray’s historical significance and philosophy resonated with him. Courtney purchased the brand, and since 1990 has been committed to the production of artisanal wines worthy of the Martin Ray name.
Mount Eden is a winery I have visited often for their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. Dave House, a top executive at Intel planted vineyards in the Monte Bello district near Mount Eden and employed their wine master Jeffrey Paterson to make the wine, which became House Family Wines.
Winemaker Notes: Notes of honeydew melon, Key lime zest, and pineapple guava. Citrus notes, with touches of marshmallow root and gooseberry. Juicy, clean body with hints of wet stone and honeysuckle. Bright minerality and concise finish.
James Suckling 92 points: Aromas of spiced apple, pineapple, lemon zest, smoked almonds and flint. It’s medium-to-full-bodied with tangy acidity and a concentrated, flavorful finish. Bright and energetic. Drink or hold.
France: White Burgundy
On the other side of the world, Burgundy represents what many believe is the best Chardonnay in the world. They can certainly be the most expensive, but there are many subregions that offer good value, such as villages classification wines. However, when a village wine is elevated to premier cru status, that can change.
The Burgundy wine region is quite broad in latitude; extending from the Chablis wine region in the north to Beaujolais in the south. There are dramatic differences between subregions, which is why the French define them. Terroir is a holy word in France.
- Chablis: here the focus is on Chardonnay with leaner, mineral-driven wines that seldom see oak.
- Cote D’or means golden slopes which defines the topography and the fact this is golden Chardonnay and Pinot Noir country
- Cote de Nuits is the northernmost part of the Cote D’or with more emphasis on Pinot Noir. Many clones come from the town of Dijon.
- Cote de Beaune is the southern part of the Cote D’or with more focus on Chardonnay
- Cote Chalonnaise has some well-regarded subregions such as Mercurey and Givry and the source of much of the sparkling wine of Burgundy called Crémant de Bourgogne. The Aligote white grape is also used here to make wine and a component of the crémant sparklers.
- Mâconnais region is known for its Chardonnay-based wines, using the shortened Mâcon. The lower portion has a number of highly-regarded communes and villages near the boundary with Beaujolais.
- Pouilly-Fuissé is probably the most famous wine from the Maconnais and now has premier cru status.
- Saint Veran was the latest to be recognized in 1971.
Quality classifications
Burgundy, like Bordeaux defines premier and grand cru designations, but flips their standing and does not define first, second, third-growth terroir.
- Grand Cru designates Burgundy’s top vineyard plots or climats of which there are 33 in the Cote D’or, of which 60% are Pinot Noir-based wines.
- Premier Cru wines from Burgundy now number 662 with the newly established 22 climats in the Macon. Many will list the village name and Premier Cru or 1er and optionally the climat.
- Villages identify quality wines with the commune or village listed on the wine. There were 44 village wines including Chablis, Pommard and Saint Veran. That number should be 40 now.
Finding your favorite village
There are two concepts to be clear about; Village wines and named-village wines. A village wine, such as Macon-Villages sources their grapes from numerous climats. In Burgundy with its concept of climats, selecting grapes from different sources is common. However, whenever a winemaker wishes to express a certain terroir selecting grapes from a single village, or a single climat within a village makes sense. Then we have named-villages, where the village name or climat is listed under Macon-Villages. Below we overview the villages of the Mâconnais wine region.
Mâconnais Wine Region
The most southerly terroir in the Burgundy (Bourgogne) winegrowing region, the Mâconnais covers a 10km-wide strip of vines 35km long, between Sennecey-le-Grand and Saint-Vérand. The region nestles between two valleys, the Grosne to the west and the Saône to the east. This is a winegrowing region with two faces. To the southwest of Tournus, the Monts du Mâconnais are a succession of wooded hilltops and little valleys, ideal for vine cultivation.
Further to the south, the hills give way to a grandiose landscape that is dominated by some monumental outcroppings, including those of Vergisson and Solutré. The vines can be found on the slopes where soil and sunshine permit better growing conditions.
- The Chardonnay grape represents 80% of all vines planted in the Mâconnais.
- Pinot Noir is largely supplanted by Gamay, which was not eradicated in the Middle Ages by the Duke of Bourgogne since the Mâconnais did not then belong to the Duchy.
- Certain Village appellations such as Saint-Véran are applying to have their climats classed as Premiers Crus.
- Appellations Villages : Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran, Viré-Clessé
- Appellations Régionale specific to Mâconnais: Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages, Mâcon followed by the name of the Village, such as Macon-Verze.
Pouilly Fuissé
While Pouilly-Fuissé is the best-known part of Mâconnais, until recently there were no Premier Cru vineyards within the AOC, as the local growers at the time the regulations were being drawn up never applied for it. The AOC was created on 11 September 1936. The area was known simply as “Pouilly”, but when the AOC laws were formed, it was split into three: Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.
Now officially premier cru
22 climats in Pouilly-Fuissé were given Premier Cru status in September, 2020, one of the few good things to happen that year. The wines of Pouilly and Fuissé have long been recognized as “first class,” in fact at the start of the Nineteenth Century scholars put the wines on a par with other great wine regions like Meursault and Montrachet. But, until last year’s decision, the Mâconnais was still the only region in Burgundy that did not have premier status. Map courtesy of www.Bourgogne-wines.com
But now 22 climats representing 194 hectares (or 24% of Pouilly-Fuissé) have been given Premier Cru appellation approval from the National Institute for Appellations of Origin (INAO). These climats are all among four villages: Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson, villages that only produce white wine from Chardonnay. The red box shows the location of the village and the vineyard of our featured white Burgundy.
What we are tasting: Dom Luquet Macon-Villages – Clos de Condemine, 2019 Chardonnay 13.5 % ABV, $19.99 at Total Wines
Domaine Luquet produces a number of Chardonnay wines from their 30 Ha (74 acres) of vines in Pouilly-Fuisse, Saint Véran and Macon-Villages. I noted two named village wines, two Pouilly-Fuisse ($30-$35), and a Saint Véran ($25), both Pouilly-Fuisse were sold out at Total Wine.
The Luquet family, six generations, has worked this land since 1878. Roger Luquet and his family expanded their holdings over the years. The picture below is from the Dom. Luquet website.
From Total Wine website: Macon-Villages, Burgundy, France- A rare single vineyard Chardonnay from the Luquet family estate. Showing plenty of lemon, lime and apple flavors as well as subtle hints of melon and mineral. Unoaked. A wonderful accompaniment to seafood and chicken.
The vineyard:
Clos de Condemine is located in the commune of Charnay-lés-Mâcon, (see map) roughly 3km from Mâcon. This splendid, gently sloping nine-hectare site lies between the old borough of Charnay and the TGV Station at Mâcon-Loché. Half of the area is allocated to Chardonnay vines. Cultivation here combines modernism, by using modern methods of vine work, and tradition, by manual harvesting.
(TGV are high-speed train stations, which means you can get there really fast!)
When taken on by Domaine Roger Luquet in January 1984, Clos de Condemine consisted of only 3200 sq. meters of vines. Planting began in March 1984 and continued until March 1987 to produce an area of 4.30 hectares. With three years of hard work and determination, we have been successful in recreating this vineyard. It is on siliceous (silica-rich) soil, very slightly undulating and exposed to the South-West. Today, some 35,000 bottles are produced every year and bottled at Domaine Roger Luquet.
Analysis
Since only Eddy and I were there this week, we sampled both wines and commented on them during the show. I first tried the Macon-Villages and loved the elegant fruit and minerality which gave it such lift. When I first tried the Martin Ray I mostly tasted the oak; partly because I’d just tried a un-oaked Burgundy. It actually took a while for the wine to fully open and become balanced although the fruit was definitely there. It is important to realize that oak does mute fruit flavors, particularly whites. The wine was stunning once open, and oak and California Chardonnay lovers will probably prefer it. I’d choose it for some foods, but for seafood would definitely go with the French wine.
These are two quality wines at the same price made in the same year, but representing two distinctly different styles of Chardonnay, which was the point I wanted to make.
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