This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on August 21, 2021. The long delay was due to my being on vacation for a month in Hawaii. I know it’s not much of an excuse unless you’ve been there recently after a long drought as we have, but there it is.
We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
Once again we are going to the South of Italy; this time to sample their red wines. In past shows we’ve covered all of northern Italy; several times. When we dipped south it was Sicily we focused on and a bit of Puglia for our Primitivo. What we’ve missed are many red and white wines of the south that are gaining favor and offer good value, with unique wines and grapes and new experiences.
Southern Italy Wine Regions
The wine regions of southern Italy include Molise, Campania, Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Sicily and Sardinia. Previous we covered Sicily and its history and we explored Puglia in some detail, and last week we covered whites from Campania, Calabria, Puglia and Sardinia. This week we are looking at a highly rated Italian red wine from two wine regions; Campania and Basilicata.
Map courtesy of Fernando Beteta Master Somm
Campania is where pizza, spaghetti, Pecorino and mozzarella cheeses originated. Tuarasi is known for its big Aglianico-based wine. That same grape is the star in Basilicata atop a dormant volcano, Vulture. Calabria makes a range of red and white wines. Puglia, surrounded by the sea has several great red wines. Sardinia, Italy’s second largest island is known for its Cannonau.
Southern Italy red wine regions
Campania:
Campania’s Mediterranean climate, volcanic soils and long growing season in the more mountainous regions with wide diurnal swings is ideal for red grapes. Campania forms the “shin” of Italy’s boot, and is home to Naples. Its name comes from Campania felix, a Latin phrase roughly meaning “happy land.” Since pizza and spaghetti come from here that works for me.
Winemaking dates back to the 12th Century BC, making it one of Italy’s very oldest wine regions. These are all ancient varieties planted by the Greeks and prized by the Romans. The region is home to a quartet of DOCGs; Aglianico del Taburno, and Taurasi for red wines, plus Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo for whites. There are also 15 DOCs and ten IGPs, including the region-wide designation.
Campania’s winemaking owes much to the varied microclimates that support around 100,000 acres of vines. Viticulture is in its element here thanks to an abundance of sunshine, dry hot summers, mild winters, a long growing season and volcanic soil. Important to note that volcanic soil ensured phylloxera was kept at bay. The coastal Mediterranean breezes blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea and across the Apennine Mountains to temper the heat, encouraging a bright acidity in the fruit.
Aglianico is the red grape most important to Campania. According to Madeline Puckette this savory wine goes well with gamey dishes or BBQ and well-aged ones are best enjoyed slowly like a fine Islay Scotch. Notes of white pepper, black cherry, smoke, game and spiced plum dominate. About 99% of the grape come from Italy
Calabria
Calabria is surrounded by mountains and sea. To the north, the Apennine mountains form a border between Calabria and its sister region, Basilicata. To the south, the Tyrrhenian Sea surrounds the region on the western side, while the Ionian Sea enfolds the eastern side. This results in a breezy, warm Mediterranean climate that is perfect for grape growing and has been that way for millennia. Calabria produces 90% red wine.
- Gaglioppo is best known for producing soft red wines from the mountainous Ciro DOC in Calabria. The variety is the main grape in this part of Italy and has been used in the region for centuries. It produces varietal red wine that is typified by a range of crushed berry flavors, often accented by cherry and spicy secondary notes.
- Greco Nero: is the dark skinned variant of Greco Bianco, thought to have originated in Ancient Greece found predominantly in Calabria, Single-variety Greco Nero wine, however, is rare, as the variety is most commonly blended with Gaglioppo.
- Magliocco is often confused with Gaglioppo as they have much in common – the two varieties look similar in the vineyard and both produce high-alcohol wines with soft red-fruit flavors. However, Magliocco has much deeper color than the lighter Gaglioppo. complexion
Puglia
Puglia is known more for their red wines than the whites. Note here that nero and negro are Italian for black, not the emperor or a race. There is also Sangiovese and Montepulciano used in blends.
- Primitivo: If you’re searching for a richer, fuller-bodied red with abundant weight look towards Puglia Primitivo. Primitivo tastes of dark fruit like fresh figs, blueberries and baked blackberries. There’s a distinct dried fruit-leather character to it as well.
- Negroamaro: means black bitter, but is surprisingly fruity and not too tannic. Flavors of ripe baked plum and raspberry with subtle notes of baking spice and herbs. Puglia accounts for most of this grape.
- Bombino Nero: grapes are some of the last to ripen in southern Italy. They rarely reach optimal ripeness, so they tend to have a high acidity and low sugar levels. They are a key component of Rosato.
Sardinia
The second largest Italian island, but also covering a huge area to the west of Roma. It is almost 94% the size of Sicily. The major red here is Cannonau, the local name for Grenache – one of Sardinia’s most successful wine grapes.
It has long been thought that the variety arrived on Sardinia with the Aragonese when they conquered the island in the early 14th Century (from what is now Aragon). However, in the past few years, Italian researchers have uncovered evidence suggesting that Cannonau (and therefore Grenache) may well have originated right here on Sardinia.
The finest examples of Cannonau di Sardegna are arguably from the eastern half of the island, in the Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari provinces. The grape has also been prized for its health benefits as it is high in anthocyanins and polyphenols, antioxidant-rich compounds which have been linked to heart health.
Aglianico Grape
Aglianico is a red wine grape variety native to southern Italy. It is known to produce full-bodied red wines that show musky berry flavors with firm tannins and good aging potential. Even when grown in hot climates, Aglianico is capable of retaining high levels of acidity, which makes it a particularly useful vine in the Mediterranean.
Despite its comparatively high acidity, the variety is late-ripening and vigorous, with a tendency to produce high volumes of fruit if not checked by viticultural practices. One of its prime expressions is in the Taurasi DOCG, where it’s the principal grape; located 50 miles east of Naples. The other DOCG is Aglianico del Taburno, which lies just to the north.
Southeast of Taurasi, in Basilicata, the sole DOC wine in the region, Aglianico del Vulture, is produced from Aglianico grapes grown on the volcanic slopes of Monte Vulture. The grape is also found in scattered locations
What we are tasting: Feudi di San Gregorio Aglianico Rubrato 2019, 13.5 % ABV, $16-20
Rubrato reveals in its clear ruby red the characteristic aromas of Aglianico of dark fruits and wild berries. Well balanced on the palate, with a delicate structure and a finish that reveals fresh fruity and delicately aromatic notes. This wine is from Irpina, Campania and aged in stainless for 8-10 months.
Feudi di San Gregorio is a highly respected winery producing Rosso, Rosato and Bianco wines in Campania.
Basilicata
Basilicata, in southern Italy, is a region whose name crops up only very rarely in wine circles. It is best known for red wines from the Aglianico variety, and in particular the Aglianico del Vulture appellation.
It is home to just four DOCs, which collectively cover only two bottles in every hundred produced here. The remaining 98 percent is sold either under IGT titles or – more likely – Vino da Tavola. Compared to other Italian wine regions, total wine production in here is very small at less than 50 million liters.
Basilicata while not particularly affluent is rich in natural beauty. Its 3860 square miles of land is bordered to the north by Campania and Puglia and to the south by Calabria. Predominantly landlocked, with the Ionian Sea on one side and the Tyrrhenian Sea on the other, it features stunning mountain and hill ranges.
In fact it is one of the most mountainous regions in Italy, with around 47 percent mountains and a further 45 percent hills. Only 8 percent of the surface area is classified as being flat. The three main peaks dotted across the region are Monte Pollino at 7375 ft, Monte Sirino at 6578 ft and the dormant volcano Monte Vulture at 4350 ft.
What we are tasting: Tenuta del Portale Palmenti Aglianico del Vulture 2013, 13.5% ABV, $19.99 at Total Wine
Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata, Italy – Perfumed aromas and flavors of licorice, sweet black fruits and minerals are balanced by a beautiful purity and earthy character. Aged 24 months in oak, this unique wine has been cellared at the winery by law for 3 years and is ready to drink. In other words, it is treated like a Reserva. This wine needs time to open up. We recommend one hour.
Picture courtesy Google Maps images
Acerenza in Basilicata where From the Vine (2019) was filmed.
Analysis
Both wines were very approachable with the Rubrato being the lighter of the two. I preferred the earthy, structured Palmenti, which got better the longer it was open. On the palate, flavors of blackberry and cassis with Damson plum and a pleasing minerality. This wine reveals the same beauty as the land from which it comes. Both wines are excellent examples of the Aglianico grape.
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