Since I had just returned from Hawaii after nearly a month, it was good to be back on the show. Kevin will join us the following week so we’ll be back as the tres amigos. For this show just Eddy and I sampled the wines. I though starting with New Mexico wines would be a good reentry. In a separate blog I’ll cover where to get good wines in Hawaii, things to be prepared for when traveling there and tips for having a great time..
This week’s show we focused on our local wineries who continue to make good wines despite the mounting challenges of mandates, not laws. We’ll also provide an overview of New Mexico wine country and where you can pick up good local wines. So this virtual trip should cover cities and landmarks with which are familiar to my listeners.
New Mexico Wine Regions
There are three defined AVAs in NM and two recognized unique regions that currently are not so defined. The NM Wine Growers Association (NMWGA) divides the state into four geographic regions so we’ll begin there.
- Northern region includes Santa Fe, Farmington, and Taos. Most wineries are located in or near one of these cities. The Embudo Valley is pending approval of AVA status
- Central region includes Albuquerque, Bernalillo, Los Lunas and Belen. Many wineries were influenced by the Rio Grande, using its waters. This region contains the Middle Rio Grande viticultural area or MRG AVA, established in 1988.
- Southern region includes Las Cruces, Deming and Lordsburg. The Mimbres Valley AVA includes Deming and Silver City and out to Lordsburg, established in 1985. The Mesilla Valley includes Las Cruces-Mesilla down to El Paso, established in 1985.
- Southeastern region includes Tularosa, Alamogordo and Ruidoso. The Tularosa Basin is a recognized wine growing region that also has challenging weather.
New Mexico Wine History
The area around Socorro was the first area in the US where wine using Vitis Vinifera grapes was successfully grown. The generally agreed date is 1629. The Mission grape or Listan Prieto is still grown in New Mexico. It is related to the Palomino grape, a principal grape in making Sherry.
- 1800: Vineyards planted from Bernalillo to Socorro and Las Cruces to El Paso
- 1868: Jesuit priests brought Italian winemaking skills and founded a winery in 1872
- Between 1870 and 1880 wine production soared from 16,000 to 908,000 gallons
- 1880: Twice vineyard acreage of New York State. NY state is now third largest after California & Washington
- New Mexico was the 5th largest wine producer in 19th century
- 1919: Giorgio Rinaldi winemaker for Christian Bros worked with NMSU to improve grape types
- Louis Gros winemaker for Christian Brothers vineyards in Bernalillo until it was sold in 1948
- In Corrales the Alary, Targetta, Salce and Le Plat families made wine, even through prohibition
In the mid-19th century the vines were head-pruned (head-trained) and buried in winter. However the soils became heavily alkaline turning the ground almost white. That and constant Rio Grande flooding prevented protecting vines in winter. Prohibition was the coup de grace with recovery only beginning in the 1970s.
Modern Wine History
- Anderson Valley Vineyards 1973 (now closed)
- La Vina Winery 1977
- La Chiripada 1977
- Santa Fe Vineyards 1982 bought by Black Mesa & Estrella Del Norte (now closed)
- Balagna Winery mid-1980s (now closed). John Balagna is a nuclear chemist involved in the Manhattan Project who was also a winemaker. His La Bomba Grande red blend celebrating the Trinity blast generated a lot of controversy. Glow in the dark wine, who knew?
- Gruet Winery: Vineyards originally in Engle, NM. Founders from Champagne (Gruet et Fils)
- H. Lescombes Winery & Bistro. Formerly Southwest Wines: Vineyards in Lordsburg, NM
- Clair Winery located in Deming, labels: D. H. Lescombes, St. Clair, Blue Teal
- Many boutique wineries were established in 1990s
New Mexico grapes
NM grapes are quite varied and include hybrid as well as Vitis vinifera varieties. Italian and Spanish grape do very well and a wide range of French grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are less successful, but Riesling, Viognier and Syrah do well here.
Corrales Winery, Corrales, NM
The first NM wine that made me sit up and take notice was a Corrales Winery 1999 Cabernet Franc and I’ve been friends with the Johnstones ever since. Recently Jeremiah Baumgartel joined them and is now the principal winemaker. Jeremiah previously worked at Ponderosa Valley Vineyards and has been a presenter at many wine conferences.
The winery is located at 6275 north Corrales Road with spectacular views of the Sandia Mountains. The wine tasting counter was built by my good friend Don Swanson. Some of the vineyards front the winery and a broad field of grass to the north features a huge willow tree. It was under this tree that we held one of four events centered on a Corrales winery; where 4 wines were featured and I interviewed Jeremiah along with Keith and Bobbi Johnstone.
Wine tasting on the winery’s expansive grounds are every weekend.
Wines sampled during event in August
- 2019 Viognier: our featured wine
- 2018 Vinadora Rosé of Merlot, 14.8% ABV, $20
- 2016 Merlot: with ripe raspberry and strawberry flavors, 15.3% ABV, $25
- 2014 Crimson: a blend of 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Petit Verdot, 15.2% ABV, $40
The other wines they offer are listed below; lots of good choices.
Corrales Winery Whites
- 2017 Riesling: off-dry, crisp, 11.2% ABV, $20
- 2017 Muscat Cannelli highly-awarded dessert wine, 12% ABV, $20
Corrales Winery Reds
- 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, bold, dark fruit, 15.7% ABV, $30
- 2016 Petit Verdot: Intense, earth dark fruit, 14.7% ABV, $30
- 2017 Cabernet Franc: medium-bodied, dry cherry, smooth, 14.9% ABV, $25
- Rojo Blendido: popular smooth sweet blend, 13.7% ABV, $20
- Mariachi: sweet, spicy blend, 14.7% ABV, $20
Wine Tasting:
- Open for outdoor tasting Saturday/Sunday: Noon to 5pm
- Special Balloon Fiesta Tasting: Open October 1 to 10 from noon to 5pm
Viognier
The origin of the Viognier grape is unknown; it is presumed to be an ancient grape, possibly originating in Dalmatia (present day Croatia) and then brought to the Rhône by the Romans. The origin of the name is also obscure. The most common namesake is the French city of Vienne, which was a major Roman outpost.
Viognier was once fairly common, but by 1965 the grape was almost extinct, and a source reported only eight acres in Northern Rhône producing just 1,900 liters of wine at that time. The popularity has shot up since then with more produced in France and also the Central Coast of California, several areas in Australia, New Zealand and many other New World locations. Rhône now has over 740 acres planted, where it is often a single varietal in the north and in blends in the south.
In 2004, DNA profiling conducted at UC Davis showed the grape to be closely related to the Piedmont grape Freisa, and to be a genetic cousin of Nebbiolo. Most loved for its perfumed aromas of peach, tangerine and honeysuckle, Viognier can also be oak-aged to add a rich creamy taste with hints of vanilla. Late-harvest wines are often sweet and old vine Viognier lends itself to aging as otherwise it is drunk young.
What we are tasting: Corrales Winery 2019 Viognier, ABV 14%, $25 at winery
The previous vintage was 15.5%, which is very high for a white wine. The current release is 14% and a big white in flavor and structure. I was very taken with this wine when I did interviews with all four of our wineries last August. My interview was with Jeremiah who is very knowledgeable and a very good winemaker.
The wine is well-balanced with good, crisp flavors of citrus and tropical fruits. The nose is fresh and lively with mango and lemon. Good depth of fruit through the mid-palate and a fine finish.
How to order wine for pickup:
- Go to nmwines.com; the NM wine growers website.
- Find your local wineries, which are grouped by region
- Go to the wineries that most interest you. The overview and winery details can help
- Select the wines that interest you and follow their requirements for pickup
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