This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on October 16, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
This is only our third excursion into Chile on our show so an overview of this southern hemisphere country is in order. Spanish missionaries planted the first grapes in the 1550s so Chile has a long history of wine making. Chile is now the fifth largest exporter of wines in the world, and the seventh largest producer.
The first grape planted is locally called Pais, technically the Listan Prieto grape, which is also known as the Mission grape since that is where it was planted. This is also the principal grape used in Sherry production. Since there have been no incursions of the phylloxera louse, Chile has the oldest native rootstock vineyards in the world; a point that is often mentioned in marketing literature.
Chilean Growing Zones
Chile is typically less than 200km (125 miles) wide so the Pacific Ocean impresses a maritime climate, but the presence of the Andes generates another influence and this forms three longitudinal growing zones that impact many of the wine regions.
- Costas regions are perfect for cool climate grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir
- Entre Cordilleras regions are the warm inland valleys and perfect for Bordeaux blends
- Los Andes regions, the high elevations shape wines of structure and higher acidity; leading to unique examples of Bordeaux and Rhone grapes.
Chile wine regulations
Chile uses a Denomination of Origin (D.O.) system to designate specific regions throughout the country. A wine must contain 75% of the grape and vintage year if so labeled, but for export it is 85%. There are no restrictions on viticultural practices or grape varietals. Among several labeling terms used to add further definition to a wine’s style are:
- Wines labeled Reserva and Reserva Especial must have a minimum 12% ABV,
- Wines labeled “Reserva Privada” and “Gran Reserva” requires a minimum 12.5% ABV.
- In addition, “Reserva Especial” and “Gran Reserva” wines spend mandatory time in oak
Chilean Wine Regions
Some wine regions are in one growing zone, many span all three. There are six broad wine regions, each containing distinctive sub regions. However our focus will be the Aconcagua and Central Valley DOs which comprise over 90% of total vineyard acreage.
Map courtesy Fernando Beteta MW
Aconcagua DO region has 10% of total acreage, spanning all growing zones.
Casablanca Valley and San Antonio Valley are in the Costas zone and known for quality Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines.
Aconcagua Valley is known for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah
Central Valley DO region has 80% of total acreage and spans all three growing zones. It is located around Santiago and runs south for 500 km (310 miles). It embraces all the main grape types.
Rapel Valley & Curico Valley include Costas & inland valleys
Colchagua, Maule & Maipo Valleys are known for their Cab & Bordeaux blends. The Maipo Valley is where both sampled wines originated
Maipo Valley
The Maipo Valley is the oldest wine region in Chile, going back to 1546, five years after the city of Santiago was founded. The first vineyards surrounded the city, but now extend east forming the three subregions of Maipo Bajo (Lower Maipo), Isla de Maipo and Maipo Alto (Upper Maipo). Maipo Alto has plantings at 800 meters into the Andes. The Andes and the coastal mountain range form the eastern and western extensions of the valley.
Maipo Valley is known for their Bordeaux blends. That reputation began in the late 1800s under the influence of many French winemakers and consultants who recognized that the rich soils, warm days and cool nights of the valley were perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Carmenére.
Wines such as Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor, Santa Rita’s Casa Real and Cousiño Macul’s Antiguas Reservas can age for a decade or more and command top dollar. A 2010 Don Melchor is $100 at Total Wines and rated 95 points for example.
What we are tasting: Carmen Gran Reserva 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% ABV, $17.99
Viña Carmen was founded by Christian Lanz in 1850 and named in honor of his beloved wife. In 1994 the rediscovery of Carmenere in one of the Carmen vineyards, specifically in the Alto Maipo Valley was a landmark event. It took this variety, long thought extinct in France after the phylloxera devastation in the mid-19th century, and returned it to the world’s wine heritage.
Alto Maipo has a Mediterranean climate with wide daily temperature oscillation and soils with excellent drainage and moisture retention, which allow the grapes to develop fruity notes and balanced acidity.
Reserva, Especial, Gran Reserva: These terms do not relate to aging requirements as they would in Spain, but this wine was aged 12 months in oak. The factor is alcohol level, which is only a quality issue in wine regions that have difficulty getting fully ripe grapes. The Maipo Valley is not one of them.
Spanish Gran Reserva wines are aged at least five years, with a minimum of two years in oak. In addition, Gran Reserva wines are typically made in only outstanding vintages. Since this wine is only 3 years old now on release it hardly qualifies as it would in Spain.
Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 was among the most honored Chilean wines of the competition, receiving outstanding 97 points and a coveted Platinum Medal. The 2018 we taste this year was rated at 92 points versus the 2017 we tried 15 months ago.
Sourced from the best alluvial terraces in Alto Maipo Region by the Andes Mountains, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is deep and intense ruby-red in color.
James Suckling-Maipo Valley, Chile- “Blackberries with undertones of black chocolate and flowers. Medium body, tight and firm tannins and a flavorful finish.” Drink now or cellar.
What we are tasting: Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, 14.5% ABV, $57
Clos Quebrada de Macul was one of the first to plant Cabernet on the steep, low-yielding hillsides in Chile, and for years their fruit was sold to top producers in the area, becoming the most expensive fruit on the market. Proprietors Isabelle and Ricardo Peña recognized their grapes’ potential to create the best Cab in Chile, and in 1996 they introduced Domus Aurea. The wine occupies the role of Chile’s leading Cabernet and has for years. And it has the scores to back it up.
Domus Aurea hails from the winery’s 45 acre Estate Vineyards in Chile’s Maipo Valley region. They planted their vineyard in 1970 to 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot.
Taking things to an even higher level in 2003, the Pena’s hired Jean-Pascal Lacaze as the lead winemaker. Jean-Pascal was born in France and trained in Bordeaux, and he’s now one of Chile’s most sought after consulting winemakers. The comments below expand on this wine’s character.
Wine.com: Among the promises of Domus Aurea are its eucalyptus notes, the balance and freshness of its cherries and its delicate orange zest wrapped in subtle chocolate. Nevertheless, the fact that the whole process is oriented by the same respect for tradition and the terroir makes every vintage a unique wine. This wine is unfiltered to preserve the original flavor and integrity, which will be much appreciated if you guard it for a long time.
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 95 points: I tasted two vintages of one of my favorite Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile, starting with the 2015 Domus Aurea, which was cropped from a warm and dry year they told me was similar to 2012. This always contains other varieties, but it’s always at least 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and therefore is sold as a varietal wine. In 2015, the balance is 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in French oak barrels, 48% of them new, for 16 to 18 months. The 2015 and 2016 vintages could not be more different, and the wines clearly show the style of the vintage. This 2015 is much more expressive and immediate, open, aromatic and extroverted, and it shows its true colors from the moment it’s poured. It’s nicely built, powerful but elegant and balanced, with pungent flavors and very fine tannin. This is a classical expression of Domus Aurea and Maipo, with clear notes of balsam and herbs.
Analysis
I am still impressed with the Carmen Cab and think it has earned its 92 points, but I did think the 2017 ranked at 97 points was too high. In fact, I find the quality of both quite similar. The Domus Aurea on the other hand truly earned the 95 points Bob Parker gave it. I found myself constantly going back to it as it opened up more, fully revealing complexity, great structure, a powerful mid-palate and a long finish.
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