This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on November 6, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
In past shows we’ve covered Thanksgiving wines, be they white, rose or red in one show, which can be sort of dizzifying. That might be my own word for it, but there it is. So instead this year we are going to build the list one category of wines at a time. We’re beginning with red wines to choose for Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving, as it origins suggest, was about giving thanks with a sumptuous bounty of foods. While turkey is traditional, beef, lamb and ham are sometimes the choice. The wide range of other foods used as sides, not to mention desserts indicate that no one wine is going to handle all the variations so think multiple wine; possibly all four categories because we cannot forget sparkling wines either.
That said this week we’ll look at red wine choices, white wines next week and Rose and sparkling wines the following week and we’ll have built up our Thanksgiving check list with plenty of time to grab your choices before the 25th of November.
While the best red wine for Thanksgiving is your personal choice and it could be a big, jammy Zinfandel, the reds most often mentioned are Pinot Noir and Beaujolais as both are lower in tannins and alcohol and higher in acidity making them great food pairing wines. They are also both Burgundian wines.
Briefly if one chooses Beaujolais I’d suggest Beaujolais-Villages or one of the ten Crus, such as Morgon or Cote de Brouilly which we covered in early October. While other wine regions might employ the Gamay grape, seldom is it done using carbonic maceration so we are really talking about an Old World French wine, which might not be to everyone’s taste.
Be aware shipping difficulties might delay this year’s delivery of Nouveau Beaujolais.
Pinot Noir, on the other hand is available in many different styles of Old World and New World interpretation. Old world styles are often in sharp contrast with the higher alcohol, more ripe versions in the new world. In fact, someone used to old world wines will complain about the higher alcohol and ripeness; so it cuts both ways. One’s palate is therefore the most reliable guide.
History of Pinot Noir
The most likely origin of this classic grape is Burgundy. Many clones of Burgundian cuttings have been imported around the world. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc all possess the same DNA and are mutations of each other, but what great mutations they are. France has the largest vineyard acreage devoted to Pinot Noir, followed by the US and Germany.
- Moldova between Ukraine and Romania close to the Black Sea, Italy, New Zealand, Australia, Switzerland and Chile round out major growers
- Burgundy style is lower in alcohol 13.5% on average with less extraction, medium weight, less tannins and judicious use of French/European oak.
- California style is usually over 14% to 14.5%, more extraction, heavier body, more tannin, deeper color and various oaks including American oak.
- France and California as the leading producers of old world/new world styles.
Craft versus mass-market Pinot Noir
Craft Pinot Noir producers market a wine from a single vineyard, or a blend from different vineyards. They might have a flagship wine that has the best grapes of multiple lots. Those with a passion for this grape love to try different clones in a vineyard or across several vineyards. Those vineyards might be in one subregion, but can also span more than one on a quest for the best terroir.
Mass-market Pinot Noir producers, by contrast, make wines based on certain taste preferences, in large volume and seldom focus on terroir in the making on their wines. Some even use computer AI as part of the decision-making process and are not above adding other ingredients to punch up their wines.
There are two styles of Pinot Noir in California, broadly speaking; Burgundian style and California style. However, a true contrast comes from tasting an actual Burgundy wine as the soil and growing conditions in France yield different results.
France: Red Burgundy
Red Burgundy begins in the Côte d’Or which means golden slopes and continues south to the Cote Chalonnaise and then Maconnais and finally Beaujolais. Red Burgundy can come from all but the Maconnais and Chablis subregions, which primarily focus on Chardonnay.
- Côte de Nuits is the northernmost part of the Côte D’or with more emphasis on Pinot Noir, but known for both grapes.
- Côte de Beaune is the southern part of the Côte D’or with more focus on Chardonnay, but the red Burgundy are just as highly prized.
- Cote Chalonnaise is just below the Cote de Beaune and features red and white Burgundy wines as well as Crémant de Bourgogne sparklers.
- Maconnais is below the Chalonnaise and primarily produces white wines using Chardonnay.
Quality classifications
Burgundy, like Bordeaux defines premier and grand cru designations, but does not define first, second, third-growth terroir and reverses grand and premier classifications. It is important to understand that with few exceptions, it is the vineyard or climat that is rated grand or premier cru, not the winery or chateau. If the resulting wine is made 100% of grand cru it is a grand cru wine. If partially grand and premier cru it is a premier cru wine.
- Grand Cru (great growth) designates Burgundy’s top vineyard plots or climats of which there are 33 in the Côte d’Or, of which 60% are Pinot Noir-based wines.
- Premier Cru wines from Burgundy number 662. Many will list the village name and Premier Cru or 1er and optionally the climat. 22 added in Sept. 2020
- Villages identify quality wines with the commune or village listed on the wine. There are 40 village wines including Chablis, Pommard and St. Véran.
- Bourgogne indicates a wine from Burgundy
Cote Chalonnaise Burgundy subregion
Côte Chalonnaise is a subregion of Burgundy, which lies to the south of the Côte d’Or continuing the same geology southward. Also a primary area of Burgundy wine production but it includes no Grand cru vineyards. Like the Côte d’Or, it is at the western edge of the broad valley of the river Saône (sown), on the rising ground overlooking the town of Chalon-sur-Saône (Cha-lone – su –sown) which is about six kilometers out into the plain. To the north, across the River Dheune (dune-a), lies the Côte de Beaune. To the south is the Mâconnais.
Map segment courtesy Wine Folly
Primary grapes:
- White wine grapes: Chardonnay primary grape but also Aligoté (Al-uh-go-tay)
- Aligote old vine wines possess lightly floral aromas, citrus fruitiness and flinty minerality and mouthwatering acidity. They can also age for several years.
- Red wine grapes: Pinot noir primary but also Gamay
- Vine growing region: 25 kilometers long, 7 kilometers wide of vineyards interspersed with orchards
Côte Chalonnaise wine-producing communes; village and premier cru
- Bouzeron: the only communal AOC for Aligoté still wine
- Rully: has 23 premier cru vineyards, known for its white wines and the center for Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wines.
- Mercurey: 30 premier cru vineyards, largest producer, primarily red
- Givry: 38 premier cru vineyards producing mostly red wines.
- Montagny: produces only white wines in its 49 premier cru vineyards
Givry Subregion
Snapshot of this region
- Appellation Village of the Côte Chalonnaise region (Saône-et-Loire).
- Givry appellation includes 38 Premiers Cru Climats.
- On the label: appellation Givry or Givry Premier Cru (or 1er) may be followed by Climat name
- Area under production: 6 ha (including 146.32 ha Premier Cru).80% Red, 20% white
Description
Givry wines were a favorite of the French King Henri IV (1553-1610). It is produced in the communes of Givry and its hamlets Poncey, Dracy-le-Fort, and Jambles. The lovely rolling hillsides are perfect for wine-growing, surrounding what has been a fortified location since the Middle Ages. Its AOC dates from 1946.
Terroir: Brown soils derived from the breakdown of Oxfordian Jurassic limestone and clayey-limestone. Most of the vines are planted facing East-South-East or due South at altitudes between 240 and 280 meters, or slightly higher in the case of Les Bois Chevaux climat.
Map courtesy bourgogne-wines.com
What we are tasting: Domaine Vincent Lumpp 2017 Givry Clos Saint-Paul 1er, 13% ABV, $41.99 Total Wine
Domaine Vincent LUMPP is situated in the hamlet of Poncey, in the south of the Givry appellation, in the heart of the Côte Chalonnaise. Vincent Lumpp runs the domaine with the help of his son, Baptiste. They combine traditional and progressive techniques in order to ensure the highest quality and allow the wines to reflect the true essence of their Burgundy terroir. The Domaine uses sustainable methods to cultivate its 9 hectares of vines, which are classified as follows:
- GIVRY Premier Cru white: 1 hectare of Chardonnay: ‘Le Vigron’ and ‘La Grande Berge’.
- GIVRY Villages Premier Cru red: 8 hectares of Pinot Noir: ‘Crémillons’, ‘La Grande Berge’, ‘Le Vigron’, ‘Clos du Cras Long’ and ‘Clos Saint-Paul’ (monopoly).
The work in the winery is carried out using the same approach as in the vineyards: as simply as possible in order to let the terroir reflect its personality. The wines are aged in French oak barrels for approximately 12 months before being sealed with high-quality Spanish corks in order to guarantee optimum conservation conditions.
The climat this wine came from also states monopole (monopoly in English), which means the vineyard is used exclusively by domaine Lumpp. Traditionally climats are shared by numerous winemakers, even row by row in some cases. When it is privately-owned, the vigneron can decide what to plant and how to maintain the vineyard.
Wine Enthusiast -Givry, Burgundy, France- “This wine is still firm and structured, showing tannins as well as brighter acidity and red-cherry fruits. The wine is juicy, packed with the potential for great fruitiness as it develops; 91 points.”
California Pinot Noir subregions
California Pinot Noir shares many of the subregions of Chardonnay as both thrive with the maritime influences that insure a long growing season. The principal regions are within Napa-Sonoma-Mendocino and the long Central Coast. The areas listing from north to south are:
Mendocino: Anderson Valley AVA, (1983)
Anderson Valley is considered one of the prime Pinot Noir regions in California, along with Chardonnay. Top quality sparkling wines are here as well as one would expect with its two primary grapes.
Brutocao Cellars Cakebread Cellars Goldeneye Winery Handley Cellars
Husch Vineyards Navarro Vineyards
Sonoma County
There are 17 sub-regions in Sonoma County of which six feature Pinot Noir. There are over 70,000 acres of vines under cultivation. Sonoma County is the broadest definition for wines not defined by one of the wine regions. Our focus is on those AVAs making prime Pinot Noir.
- Sonoma coast (1987) is the largest wine region covering the entire coast. 4725 acres and 7 wineries.
- Fort Ross/Seaview (2012) is a subregion within Sonoma coast. The vineyards within this area are generally located on rounded ridges with summits extending above 1,200 feet on steep, mountainous terrain. 555 acres and 5 wineries.
- Green Mountain (1983): Foggy and filled with goldridge soil for growing perfect Pinot Noir, Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma County. It’s very tightly delineated, both geographically and climatically, and is the most consistent of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. 2860 acres and 10 wineries.
- Petaluma Gap (2017) The Petaluma Gap is the gateway to Sonoma County wine country. Only 25 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge, Petaluma Gap vineyards are tucked into valleys and scattered on hillsides in perfect harmony with the area’s rural open space and rich agricultural history. There are more than 80 vineyards covering over 4,000 acres and 9 wineries.
- Carneros (1983) is the only AVA that spans Sonoma and Napa counties, but is influenced by San Pablo Bay, not directly from the Pacific. 6481 acres and 22 wineries.
- Russian River Valley (1983) spans Santa Rosa and Healdsburg and encompasses the Green Valley 13,896 acres and 94 wineries.
Central Coast
The Central Coast covers over 300 miles of coastline from San Francisco to Santa Barbara.
Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (1981)
The mountains to the west of Silicon Valley were originally planted with vines by French immigrants in the early 1900s. The upper slopes and western side are known for Pinot Noir. In fact there are 5 subregions that are defined by the characteristics of the Pinot Noir wines.
- Cinnabar Winery: Winemaker George Troquato and Cellar Master Alejandro Aldama, have been with Cinnabar for over 30 years.
- Mount Eden Vineyards founded in 1945, one of the founding wineries by Martin Ray.
- Thomas Fogarty Winery and Vineyards This Woodside estate offers an all-Pinot Noir flight, tasting wines from five different parcels of its vineyard.
- Muns Vineyard: Sited at 2600 feet, the highest SCM vineyard. Enjoyed bottle tasting with Mary Lindsay who is also President of the Viticulture Assn. of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
San Luis Obispo (1982-87)
Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley are the 2 AVAs in SLO that produce outstanding, rich Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. We sampled two elegant Pinot Noirs from Tolosa Vineyards; the 2015 Hollister Pinot Noir and Primera, their flagship blend of the best lots of several of their vineyards. The SLO Coast of Morro Bay is the third pending AVA.
Santa Maria Valley (1981)
The valley is home to the California’s largest connected vineyard, Bien Nacido, which has 900 acres in Santa Maria Valley. The region is more intermediate in terms of climate and is hailed for its lush styles of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.
- Au Bon Climat: Jim Clendenen one of the first here to make great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
- Fess Parker Winery & Vineyards: Fess purchased 714 acre Foxen Canyon Ranch in 1988, which evolved into a winery known for their Rhone and Burgundian wines.
- Foxen Vineyards Winery: Founded in 1985 and offer several Pinots
- Ojai Vineyard; they create wines with a European finesse and 23 Pinots currently.
Santa Rita Hills (2001)
The Sta. Rita Hills AVA is home to over 59 vineyards, totaling 2,700 acres planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and 18 other cool climate wine grape varieties. Part of the sea bed 20 million years ago, the North American and Pacific plates pushed up and formed the hills which turned clockwise over the next 12 million years, give or take a million.
- Most clearly delineated transverse range, from Alaska to Chile, on Pacific Coast
- East/West maritime throat, poor marine-based soils with elevated calcium
- Pacific’s cooling through fog, wind and moderating summer heat
- Cooler than RRV & Carneros, 35 to 40 days longer growing season
- Most planting in last two decades, using modern trellising, newly available cultivars (clones) of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
Monterey County AVA (1984)
Monterey County is quite broad with many subregion AVAs. Some are known for their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir based on location as a cool-climate area. These include Arroyo Seco, Chalone and SLH.
Santa Lucia Highlands SLH (1990): Probably the most well-known subregion, producing excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. The Blue Grand Canyon provides a cool sink of deep water to moderate and extend the growing season.
What we are tasting: 2018 Lucienne Pinot Noir Doctor’s Vineyard, 14.5% ABV $50
From website: Hahn Family Wines is a family-owned-and-operated winery. The founders Nicky and Gaby Hahn first came to the Santa Lucia Highlands in the late 1970s, and the Swiss-born couple quickly recognized the region’s potential to produce wines of exceptional nuance and character, worthy of attention on the world stage. Nicky was instrumental in SLH obtaining AVA status in 1991.
Lucienne wines showcase the distinct characteristics of Pinot Noir from each SLH estate vineyards: Lone Oak, Doctor’s, Smith and Hook. The wines take their name from Santa Lucia, the namesake of the appellation and patron saint of light; her crown of candles graces the wine label. These vineyard-designated releases owe their singular nature to variations in climate, topography, and wind as well as an array of clonal selections. The wines are rich, nuanced expressions of the vineyards they come from.
Winemaker Paul Clifton joined Hahn in 2003 and talks about this wine in their video. The wine was aged in 40% new French oak for 15 months
Doctor’s Vineyard: Located in the middle stretch of the Santa Lucia Highlands, the 243-acre Doctor’s Vineyard experiences warmer temperatures and higher winds than Hahn’s other estate vineyards in the region. Certified sustainable, the vineyard ranges from 320 feet to 720 feet above sea level, with gently sloped hillsides and wide row spacing that offers greater sun exposure.
Winery tasting notes: Beautiful aromas of blackberry and cherry accented with hints of sagebrush and clover. The wine’s vibrant acidity and smooth tannins lead to a silky structure and lingering finish.
Analysis
The 2017 Givry red Burgundy is still a bit young and tight. I’d suggest holding for 1 to3 years for it to more fully develop. Givry being one of the most tannic red Burgundies along with Pommard, will show better. It tastes fine now, but give it at least 1-1/2 hours breathing time if you can’t wait. The Lucienne is ready, even though it’s younger and is as full and rich a wine as one could want from the Hahn Family. The mouthfeel is lush and inviting, the fruit dense and vibrant, and with a long finish.
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