Searching for the best white wines for Thanksgiving

This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on November 13, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.

Last week we covered the best red wines for Thanksgiving and we chose: Pinot Noir and Beaujolais, both red Burgundies. Do we dare say the best white is a Burgundy as well? Actually the range of white wines to choose is all over the map because everyone’s wine palate is different and white wines are less of a problem for this holiday. Nonetheless Chardonnay is the most planted white wine grape, and still the most popular.

Part of the reason is the variations in style and flavor profiles. There was a period when too many oaky, buttery-style (OBC) Chardonnay wines were made in California and one had to turn to old world versions for relief. The OBC acronym led to the ABC anything but Chardonnay backlash. At least now it is easier to tell when they call their wine Buttercream and lists the tasting notes as butter, vanilla and pear. However, Heavenly Cream Chardonnay from Mendoza keeps the acidity in, although oak and butter still dominate.

• Heavy oak use accentuates the vanilla aspect but also tends to mute fruit flavors
• Malolactic fermentation (MLF) adds buttery notes, but undercuts the crispness that enhances food-pairing
• If you slather your turkey in butter I don’t think an OBC helps as acidity is needed to cut through the fatty aspects of food.
• A balance of lower alcohol, crispness and bright fruit flavors aids food-pairing

California Chardonnay styles

Now California offers a wide variety of styles, with many cool-climate sites offering both richer and leaner or no-oak Chardonnay. In the New World at last count there were 34 clonal varieties to choose from, which signal the particular style(s) a grower is trying to establish. Those styles might be Burgundian, particularly if they are French vignerons or love the French style. In other cases the terroir could dictate part of the style, or a grower might be fully committed to a California style, or an Australian style, etc. There are traditional styles that have long endured and fads that take off for a while and then quickly fade.

California Chardonnay has evolved and changed over time. It’s hard to believe now that in the 1960s less than 200 acres were planted in what Jon Bonne of Punch magazine calls the first wave of this grape in California. In the 1980s many of the wines became sappy, low acids, slightly sweet and trading the fruit flavors, which weren’t well-developed for oaky, buttery notes.

The switch to Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling wines in the 90s was the result. Another counter-style that came out in this era was with stainless-steel fermentation and no time in oak, which did have to rely on good fruit. For some these non-oaked wines tasted somewhat thin. Sometimes called the Chablis-style, but often lacking the minerality of good Chablis.

The switch back to oak came with rich fruit flavors, sometime longer hang time and a more judicious use of oak. That is more neutral oak, or partially neutral and French cooperage or other European oaks. As American oak has improved, using air-drying rather than kiln it became more attractive.

Alternate whites

No one white wine type is going to show up on turkey day and many work as well as Chardonnay if not better so the first choice is probably choosing your favorite white wine.

• Sauvignon Blanc also comes in a variety of styles from leaner bracing acidity wines from Marlborough, to minerally-driven Sancerre or rich white Bordeaux, or everything in-between in the US.
• Pinot Blanc combines elements of both SB and Chardonnay, but is harder to find.
• Riesling wines range for low-alcohol sweeter German to drier Alsace wines which also make great Pinot Blanc. Washington State makes the widest range of value-driven Riesling. NM is also a good place for this grape.
• Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are two interpretations of the same grape and both are very popular in Italy and France, respectively, but many good versions in the US.
• Semillon is often a blending grape but single varietal ones that emphasize the fig-like notes are perfect for turkey. Otherwise you’ll want a Semillon-based Sauterne for desserts
• Other Italian whites like Fiano, Greco, Falanghina and Vermentino would make a refreshing change and all are good food-pairing wines as well.
• Albarińo, Torrontés, Gruner-Veltliner, Chenin Blanc and Rhone white blends are also good.

What should my guests bring?

Tim Hanni (Master of Wine) would suggest each guest should bring whatever wines they like and I’d agree. If they don’t like their choice who are they going to blame? If you are having guests bring an appetizer, side or dessert; ask them to bring the wine they like to go with their dish. You have to do less cooking and make fewer wine choices, which means more time spent with friends. That is part of the attraction, right? Besides football, of course.

California Top Chardonnay Wine Regions

The stunning win of Chateau Montelena over top white Burgundies surely was a spur to other growers to plant the grape. Many of the best areas for California Chardonnay are located along the coast, or in valleys with maritime influences and extended growing seasons. Mountainous regions close to the Pacific are other prime regions.

Mendocino:

Anderson Valley, the coast, inland higher elevation produce excellent, balanced wines. I have sampled many good ones in Anderson Valley.

Napa Valley:

Some of the richest Chardonnay wines come from Napa, with Valley versions different from mountainous areas like Spring Mountain, Atlas Peak and Diamond Mountain. Some of the best come from Carneros where San Pablo Bay permits a longer growing season.

The Central Coast

This is one of the largest wine regions in the world, but is really made up of a number of broad AVAs and subregions and a variety of wines and styles. This coastal area extends over 300 miles from San Francisco to Santa Barbara.

Santa Cruz Mountains:

Since I lived in the foothills and explored much of this area, I’ve enjoyed many Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. The Chards are often savory, with rich fruit and structure and less oak influence.

Monterey:

Not just a vacation destination, Monterey Bay has been making Chardonnay wines for quite some time. The Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco produce outstanding examples. The Blue Grand Canyon is:

• One of the world’s deepest marine canyons
• The only marine canyon that directly impacts a major wine growing region
• Its deep, cold waters influence weather throughout Monterey County

Paso Robles:

This area is known for its Zinfandel and other red wines, but more mountainous areas, such as the Adelaide region are good for Chardonnay and other white wine grapes.

San Luis Obispo:

Morro Bay and the Pacific produce a prime influence for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. SLO Coast is the proposed AVA name for the Morro Bay coastal area that already has Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley AVAs defined.

Santa Barbara:

Our final trip down the central coast lands us in Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Rita Hills. Within the Santa Maria Valley is Bien Nacido Vineyards, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are as good here as anywhere in the world.

Sonoma County:

I did not leave out Sonoma, since one of our Chardonnay wines comes from here, and it will be our prime focus. There are 12 wine regions and 4 subregions in Sonoma County, with over 70,000 acres of vines under cultivation. Sonoma County is the broadest definition for wines not defined by one of the wine regions or when grapes come from multiple areas within the county.

• Sonoma coast (1987) is the largest wine region covering the entire coast to Marin County
• Fort Ross/Seaview (2012) is a large subregion within Sonoma coast
• Sonoma Valley (1981) is inland and borders Napa Valley with four subregions
  • Carneros (1983) is the largest and only AVA that spans Sonoma and Napa counties
  • Sonoma Mtn. (1985) has elevations to 1200 feet, home to Jack London vineyards
  • Bennett Valley (2003) is in the northwest corner of Sonoma Valley

In 1913 Jack London wrote about this region, “The air is wine. The grapes on a score of rolling hills are red with autumn flame. Across Sonoma Mountain, wisps of sea fog are stealing. The afternoon sun smolders in the drowsy sky. I have everything to make me glad I am alive.”

The remaining wine regions are either side of highway 101 and above Santa Rosa.

• Alexander Valley (1984) is the most planted AVA in Sonoma and home to intense Cabernet Sauvignon and lush Chardonnay. It is also influenced by the Russian River.
• Chalk Hill (1983) directly below Alexander Valley and east of RRV is known for minerally-driven Sauvignon Blanc & Chardonnay wines.

Russian River Valley (1983) spans Santa Rosa and Healdsburg and is greatly influenced by the river which empties into the Pacific and produces a cool, long growing season for world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I have spent many wonderful times here, exploring, bicycling, and wine tasting. The wineries are more spread out here and the meandering back roads are a delight to travel by bike or car.

A fine lunch or dinner in Healdsburg is another plus of this region. There are a number of tasting rooms in the town for those that don’t want to venture far and a number of cozy B & B places to stay.

What we are tasting: Ramey Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard Russian River Valley, 2016, 14.5% ABV, $65

David and Carla Ramey began winemaking in 1996 by using Dominus Winery facilities, and then moved to Rudd Cellars in 1998. The new Rudd winery was built on the site of the old Girard Winery in Oakville.

• They added Russian River in 2001 releases.
• Ritchie Vineyard added in 2002 and added Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah wines.
• In 2007 moved to permanent home in Healdsburg.
• As David calls it a warehouse, not a chateau. His concern is what goes in the bottle.

From the website:

David Ramey spent his early career creating benchmark wines for such wineries as Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus and Rudd. With that impressive resume, David and his wife Carla founded Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996.

They have been producing critically acclaimed, award-winning wines ever since, committed to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Syrah as their primary varietals. Located amidst the natural charm of Healdsburg, Ramey Wine Cellars embodies the balance that is the essence of California wine:

France: White Burgundy

On the other side of the world, Burgundy represents what many believe is the best Chardonnay in the world. They can certainly be the most expensive, but there are many subregions that offer good value, using the villages classification. However, over time a village wine can be elevated to premier cru status and then prices typically go up. Please note all the pronunciation guides are my own best guesses.

The Burgundy wine region is quite broad in latitude; extending from the Chablis wine region in the north to Beaujolais in the south.  There are dramatic differences between subregions, which is why the French define them. Terroir is a holy word in France.

• Chablis: here the focus is on Chardonnay with leaner, mineral-driven wines that seldom see oak.
• Cote D’or means golden slopes which defines the topography and the fact this is golden Chardonnay and Pinot Noir country
  • Cote de Nuits is the northernmost part of the Cote D’or with more emphasis on Pinot Noir. Many clones come from the town of Dijon.
  • Cote de Beaune is the southern part of the Cote D’or with more focus on Chardonnay
• Cote Chalonnaise has some well-regarded subregions such as Rully (Rue-E) and Montagny (mon-tahn-A) and the source of much of the sparkling wine of Burgundy called Crémant de Bourgogne. The Aligote (a-lee-go-tay) white grape is also used here to make wine and a component of the crémant sparklers.
• Mâconnais region is known for its Chardonnay-based wines, using the shortened Mâcon as in Mâcon -Villages. The lower portion has a number of highly-regarded communes and villages near the boundary with Beaujolais.
  • Pouilly Fuissé is probably the most famous wine from the Maconnais and now has premier cru status.
  • Saint Véran was the latest to be recognized in 1971.

Quality classifications

Burgundy, like Bordeaux defines premier and grand cru designations, but flips their standing and does not define first, second, third-growth terroir.

• Grand Cru designates Burgundy’s top vineyard plots or climats of which there are 33 in the Cote D’or, of which 60% are Pinot Noir-based wines.
• Premier Cru wines from Burgundy now number 662 with the newly established 22 climats in the Mâcon. Many will list the village name and Premier Cru or 1er and optionally the climat.
• Villages identify quality wines with the commune or village listed on the wine. There were 44 village wines including Chablis, Pommard and Saint Véran. The village classification now numbers 40.

Finding your favorite village

There are two concepts to be clear about; village wines and named-village wines. A village wine, such as Mâcon-Villages sources their grapes from numerous climats. In Burgundy with its concept of climats, selecting grapes from different sources is common. However, whenever a winemaker wishes to express a certain terroir selecting grapes from a single village, or a single climat within a village makes sense. Then we have named-villages, which can become premier cru climats. Below we overview the villages of the Mâconnais wine region.

Mâconnais Wine Region

The most southerly terroir in the Burgundy (Bourgogne) winegrowing region, the Mâconnais covers a 10km-wide strip of vines 35km long, between Sennecey-le-Grand and Saint-Vérand. The region nestles between two valleys, the Grosne (gross) to the west and the Saône (sown) to the east. This is a winegrowing region with two faces. To the southwest of Tournus, the Monts du Mâconnais are a succession of wooded hilltops and little valleys, ideal for vine cultivation.

Further to the south, the hills give way to a grandiose landscape that is dominated by some monumental outcroppings, including those of Vergisson (ver-ghe-sown) and Solutré (soul-lou-tray). The vines can be found on the slopes where soil and sunshine permit.

• The Chardonnay grape represents 80% of all vines planted in the Mâconnais.
• Pinot Noir is largely supplanted by Gamay, which was not eradicated in the Middle Ages by the Duke of Bourgogne since the Mâconnais then did not belong to the Duchy. We can all be thankful for that.
• Certain appellations Villages such as Saint-Véran are applying to have their Climats classed as Premiers Crus. Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson have been given that status.
• Appellations Villages : Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, (ving-zell), Saint-Véran
• Appellations Régionale specific to Mâconnais: Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages, Mâcon followed by the name of the Village, such as Mâcon -Verze.

Saint- Véran (Vair-on)

The following is information from the bourgogne-wines website; which is highly recommended for their videos as well. There is a stunning 3 minute video with aerial views of all the climats and vineyards of the area. There are 1600 acres spread among eight villages around Pouilly- Fuissé. The Saint-Véran AOC was granted in 1971.

As it is often the case in Bourgogne, the AOC embraces a number of villages lying to the North of the Rock of Solutré to part of Solutré-Pouilly and Saint-Vérand all situated to the south. The soils, ideally suited to Chardonnay, produce only white wines. The village is Saint-Verand, the AOC dropped off the‘d’, but since it isn’t pronounced anyway who cares, eh?

Saint-Véran Terroir

The appellation Saint- Véran is split into two separate islands by its close relative Pouilly-Fuissé. Both occupy slopes forming part of the chain of hills to which the Rock of Solutré belongs. This rocky backbone is made of fossiliferous limestone of the Middle Jurassic.

• On the Western side are older rocks covered with grey marls on which the vineyards of Chasselas (Shas-a-la) and Leynes (lean-ya) face South and West..
• The gentle Eastern slopes are composed of marly limestone and the East-facing vineyards of Prissé (preece) and Davayé (Deval-ye).
• At Chânes (Shay-neh) and Prissé, on the left bank of the Grosne River, the vines grow on fossiliferous limestone, often overlain by a layer of clay with flinty elements.

Map courtesy Vins de bourgogne

Wine character: The color is that of very pale yellow gold, brilliant and crystal-clear. The nose develops subtle fruit aromas (peach, pear) or acacia, honeysuckle and bracken, often over notes of fresh almond, hazelnut, cinnamon, butter, and sometimes honey. Exotic fruits are sometimes present, as are citrus notes (orange peel). On the palate, this white wine is dry and well-rounded, mineral (gun-flint) and lively from the first attack. Acidity and fatness come increasingly into play. The structure is harmonious, fresh and round.

What we are tasting: Dom Val Lamartinien Saint- Véran 2018 13 % ABV, $24.99 at Total Wines

The Estate is located in the commune of Prissé. The lovely building, built in the late 17th Century, is attached to the Château de Monceau. Benoît Triboulet – who was known for having long worked as a distiller in the neighboring village of Bussières – bought the property. In 1959, Hubert took over from his father. Now Hubert’s son Alain runs the estate.

Tasting: A pale golden color with light green tints. The nose is complex, revealing apple and pear aromas and scents of white blossom, subtly enhanced by hazelnut and almond. We recommend tasting this wine at 12 °C.

Analysis

No surprise the Ramey was the bigger of the two. I suggested we start with the white Burgundy since it could easily be overpowered by the Ramey. No question the Ramey delivered with a rich heavily-bodied mouthfeel and sumptuous fruit and a long finish. The Saint-Véran was more elegant, but still complex enough to compete with the Ramey. I found less palate fatigue with the Burgundy. Both wines went perfectly with our double-cream Brie.