California Zinfandel: Mendocino

This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on January 22, 2022. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.

When we have talked about wines from Mendocino before they were usually Pinot Noir or Chardonnay-based wines from Anderson Valley. This is hardly surprising since both the valley and those grapes are what most wine drinkers recall of that county. When I was last there it was the Anderson Valley wines I tried, but many notable ones were Bordeaux blends and a few Zinfandel wines sourced from either hotter parts of the valley or other subregions of Mendocino.

Mendocino Zinfandel wines come from intriguing subregions that produce quality Zinfandel and some of these are also old vine-based. In fact some of the oldest vineyards still on their own roots can be found here. Reviewing the history of the grape provides a context for appreciating this unique California grape.

Zinfandel Origins

The origin of Zinfandel was identified as Croatia in the late 1990s which was also the origin Primitivo, an Italian grape. Further refinements after years of research and DNA testing led to a single 90-year-old grape vine from the garden of an elderly lady in Split, Croatia. The evidence proved that Zinfandel was a Croatian grape that has been known as Tribidrag since at least the 15th century.

Cuttings of Zinfandel were brought to California during the 1850 Gold Rush and were soon making fine wines. Planting of Zinfandel boomed soon after, and by the end of the 19th century it was the most widespread variety in California.

Prohibition all but killed Zinfandel and many vines were ripped out. The grape was subject to rot when transported long distances and was replaced with Alicante Bouschet for the home market.  The home market was producers sending wine grapes to homemakers for their use. The producer would often caution the home winemaker about what steps might turn their grapes into wine if they were not careful. Apparently many of them were very careless.

In 1972 Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home Winery used the saignée technique to remove the free run juice to intensify his Deaver vineyard Zinfandel in Amador County. The dry, white juice was made into a Rose-style wine but generated little interest. That is until a stuck fermentation in 1975 produced a sweet runoff juice, which caught on and white Zinfandel now sells at six times the rate of red Zinfandel.

Whence cometh the grape

Currently both Zinfandel and the Primitivo clone grow well in many parts of California. The earlier-ripening Primitivo is fast gaining fans. Castoro Cellars in Paso Robles quadrupled their Primitivo holdings alongside their highly-rated Zinfandel. Currently Zinfandel is the third most planted grape after Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The brix level determines the fruit flavors and ABV.

Zinfandel styles:

• White Zinfandel – no skin contact after crush, varying residual sugar
• Zinfandel Rose – minimal skin contact, finished dry
• Zinfandel Red – Normal extraction, dry, balanced, 13.5 to 14.5 % ABV
• Zinfandel Claret – Done like a Bordeaux claret, Grgich Hills and Milagro Vineyards
• Zinfandel Big – Jammy, heavy extraction, ripe or overripe grapes 15.0 to 17% ABV
• Late Harvest Zinfandel – Overripe grapes, residual sugar, usually under 15%
• Zinfandel Port – a fortified wine made in a port-style, usually around 18%

California Zinfandel AVAs

• Central Valley has heavy production, but used for jug wine, blends and white Zinfandel.
• Sierra Foothills: Amador has a reputation for big, full-bodied Zinfandel. These extra-ripe wines have been called jammy, briary, and brambly, having aromas of sweet berries.
  • Within Amador County lies the Shenandoah Valley where Barbera, Sangiovese and Zinfandel reign supreme and home to the state’s oldest Zinfandel vines.
• Sierra Foothills: El Dorado one of the oldest wine-producing areas has 64 wineries and is located between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe at elevations of 1200 to 3500 feet. The region is warm and sunny, and El Dorado red wines are typically ripe and full-bodied.
• Santa Cruz Mountains AVA produces Zinfandel from just 9 acres that are known for their complexity and depth.
• Sonoma county has Zinfandel-plantings second only to the Central Valley.
  • Dry Creek Valley is known for its juicy Zinfandel with bright fruit, balanced acidity and notes of blackberry, anise and pepper.
  • Alexander Valley is the warmest region for Zin and home to Sin Zin of Alexander Valley Vineyards an iconic Zinfandel
  • Sonoma Valley around the town of Sonoma can be earthy and complex; Kenwood and Ravenswood. The Kenwood Jack London Zinfandel is one of my faves.
  • Russian River Valley has a warm area where Zinfandel, often with intense Boysenberry is favored.
• Paso Robles AVA with its hot days and cool maritime evenings and a long growing season produces Zinfandel known for being soft and round, but also big and jammy.
• Napa Valley AVA produces Zinfandel wines described as plum-like and intense, tasting of red berry fruits with cedar and vanilla. The Napa mountain subregions are generally more complex.
• Lake County Although each area within Lake County has unique viticultural attributes, all are influenced by Clear Lake, the largest inland body of water in the state of California. The majority of the vineyards planted above 1,500 feet, many with red volcanic soils.
• Lodi has some of the oldest Zinfandel vines in California. While often used for White Zinfandel production, in the red style, Lodi Zinfandels have a reputation for being juicy and approachable.

Mendocino County

There are over 100 wineries with over 15,000 acres under vine. Due to its remoteness many Mendocino wines are drunk locally and half of the grapes our shipped to other counties. There are 11 AVAs in Mendocino with Anderson Valley and Yorkville Highlands the most significant AVAs west of the Mendocino Ridge which divides the state into two different agricultural zones.

To the east; Redwood Valley, Eagle Peak and Potter Valley above Ukiah are the most well-known. The Russian River flows through the Ukiah Valley and is one of its influences as it is in Sonoma.

Map portion courtesy of Mendocino Winegrowers (Mendowine.com)

The Mendocino Ridge is the only non-contiguous AVA in America with only peaks above 1200 feet included. Like a series of islands above the fog bank this region is known for exceptional Zinfandel planted since the 1850s. The region covers more than a quarter-million acres of mountainous land, but just 75 acres of the entire viticultural area are planted, many since the late 1800s on these ridge-top vineyards.

• The Talmadge Bench, located a couple miles east of Ukiah along Mills Creek Road, contains a large concentration of Zinfandel vines planted by Italian immigrants in the early part of the 20thCentury. Originally destined for jug wines, the demand for quality wines has created a place for several notable Zinfandel-based wines.

The preservation of Mendocino Ridge vines paid off when the natural intensity and distinctive flavor profiles of fruit from the old vines was captured in a series of separate bottling that were made by the Philo-based Edmeades Winery, one of the pioneer brands of Anderson Valley, started by Dr. Donald Edmeades and his family in 1972. The success of these wines inspired a new wave of vineyards planted in the 1980s and 90s, and laid the foundation for Mendocino Ridge to become its own appellation in 1997. Chris Sawyer of sawyersomm.com

What we are tasting; Hawley 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel, Mendocino, ABV 15.0%, $25-$35

I purchased this wine from Jon, the Reverse Wine Snob which is one of my favorite online wine shops. He is very good with shipping wines and has intriguing wines and reasonable prices. There are discounts in shipping for multiple bottles. This is a single vineyard old vine Zinfandel that comes from the 80-year-old, dry farmed Luccetti Ranch vineyard on the Russian River in Mendocino County. It spends 9 months in French and American oak. 698 cases produced.

While my co-host, Kevin Patruznick decries using online services I do use them if I find a unique wine that is not available locally. On occasion a unique wine from an area I have not tried comes up, or I have dreamed of trying a wine from an area and here it is. Should I just pass and hope it will show up locally? Of course not!

Wine Spectrum: This 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel boasts ripe fruit and many layers of complexity due to Mendocino’s coastal climate. An aromatic bouquet of blackberry and cassis fill the glass. Flavors of red strawberries, boysenberry and vanilla open to a velvety smooth mouthfeel backed by very little tannin and a good structural acidity.

Dan Dawson: This gem of an Old Vine Zinfandel was grown on a small, 80-year-old vineyard along the Russian River in Mendocino. Matured vines like these are extremely rare and are sought after; for they produce less overall quantity of fruit, allowing the existing clusters plenty of energy and sunlight to ripen and create a finer, more regal wine.

Bottle Barn: From 50-60 year old vine Zin vineyards near Calpella in northern Mendocino County. This straight-forward, ripe red berry and plum fruit and background peppery and minty spice style is easy to like. While being on the lighter side of Zinfandel, it does not let down in flavor and satisfaction. Medium/light tannins, perky acidity, the fruit, herb and spice flavors in unison.

Mendocino wineries producing Zinfandel wines

While Hawley is based in Sonoma and is one of many wineries sourcing fruit from Mendocino, the following local wineries are recommended that produce quality Zinfandel. Many of these are located in Hopland or Ukiah just off highway 101.

• Edmeades Winery: Located in Philo, Anderson Valley, Dr. Donald Edmeades pioneered the focus on Mendocino Ridge Zinfandel and has numerous single-vineyard wines from there including Gianoli and Perli vineyards.
• Brutocao Family Vineyards: This became my favorite Mendocino winery. In part because they had so many excellent wines including Zinfandel besides the obvious Pinots and Chards. I shared one memorable Bordeaux blend with friends who all raved about it. Anything they do with red grapes you should check out.
• McNab Ridge Winery: Winemaker Rich Parducci of the Parducci family has long been a fixture in Mendocino and also makes notable Zinfandel.
• Graziano Family Vineyards: Source their Zinfandel from the warmer Redwood Valley.

Analysis

Once again we had only one wine to try, but boy was it good. I loved the balance with good crispness to go with the structure, making it a very lively wine and that included the elegant fruit. The tannin was gunpowder fine and well integrated into this now five year old Zinfandel.