This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on January 29, 2022. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
New Zealand is primarily known for their Sauvignon Blanc wines, which are hard to miss in any wine shop or supermarket. Less ubiquitous, but also highly-rated are their Pinot Noir wines. I had my first New Zealand Pinot Noir in Las Vegas and I was immediately a fan. Not that this should be too surprising considering that the North and South Island’s maritime climate provide a crucial element needed to make great Pinot Noir.
Winemaking began in the 1850s with the first Pinot Noir plantings in 1883 in Masterson in Wairarapa region. Prohibition and the Depression severely crippled the industry until the late 1960s. In 1973 modern-day Brancott Estate planted Marlborough’s first vineyard and produced its first Sauvignon Blanc in 1979. By 1985 wine lovers were discovering the unique SBs produced here, noted for their rich fruit flavors, razor-sharp acidity and Sancerre-like minerality. George Tabor reported that Cloudy Bay is “what many people consider to be the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc.”
New Zealand’s wine regions extend 1,600km (1000 miles) from sub-tropical Northland down to Central Otago, home to the world’s most southerly vineyards. There were just over 91,000 acres planted in 2017 with 45% coming from Marlborough, followed by Central Otago with over 25%, Wairarapa with 9%, Canterbury, 7%, Hawk’s Bay with around 5%. The first three are the ones we typically see in local wine shops.
Harvest times: late February in north and early to mid-April in south.
Marlborough and Martinborough
Confusing these two names is common. Although they lie close to each other they are very different. Marlborough is on the northeast coast of the South Island and Martinborough is on the southeast coast of the North Island. But never the twain will meet unless we have massive tectonic plates shifting.
- The Marlborough region produces the majority of the SBs as well as Pinot Noir.
- Martinborough Pinot Noir is more Burgundian to the point that even smaller subregions are being defined much like Burgundy’s Cote d’Or.
- Martinborough is the principal subregion of Wairarapa, which means glistening waters in Maori
- Gladstone and Masterson are the other two lesser-known subregions
- Wairarapa has 3% plantings, 1% production, i.e., low yield
- Martinborough is classified as a cool-climate growing region
Located within a wide river valley between the Rimutaka mountain range and the eastern Wairarapa hills means the vineyards are protected from too much rain and wind, and enjoy a long, even, sunny growing season. The cold nights ensure the grapes retain their high natural acid, which gives the wine its noticeable freshness, and ensures a long life in bottle. Martinborough has exceptional soil for making wine; the plateau is made up of alluvial gravel that is centuries old and nutrient poor, pushed up to the surface by tectonic plate movement.
Martinborough, Pinot Noir
In Martinborough, Pinot Noir has over 50% of all plantings. Pinots from this area differ from Central Otago in that they possess a deeper color with earthy and gamey notes, more complexity and tighter tannins, compared to the lighter, red-fruit driven style of Otago. This is due to the lower-yielding smaller berries that have a higher skin to juice ratio. Chardonnay also has a very good reputation in Martinborough, again with greater complexity and weight than other regions.
- Highly regarded wineries include Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Martinborough Vineyards, and Escarpment. We sampled a very good Palliser Estate Pinot Noir on the show a while ago.
Central Otago Pinot Noir
Located near the bottom of the South Island, Central Otago is well known for its spectacular vineyards and premium quality wines. The primary grapes are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc. These are the southernmost vineyards in the world, which was also a wine quiz question posed to our AWS group.
All of the wineries are toward the center of the region and away from a coastal influence, which is the opposite of Marlborough and Martinborough. The land south of Otago looks pretty inhospitable for vineyards and the southern tip of the South Island is very definitely in glacier territory which formed the rugged mountains of Central Otago.
Pinot Noir is the dominant grape in Central Otago, with warmer sub-regions, such as Bannockburn, Bendigo and the Cromwell Basin typically producing wines described as classically Central Otago; with strong, sweet plum and cherry flavors, together with a seasoning of thyme character in some cases.
Gibbstown and Wanaka tend to make cooler, edgier wines with red cherry, fresh herb, spice and often a pronounced mineral character. Decanter 2017
Snapshots
- The first vines were planted in 1864 by a French man, Jean Desiree Feraud. Note that this represents the earliest planting of the grape. However, when he left 20 years later winemaking did not resume until 1975; almost a hundred years. The first commercial release was in 1982.
- The region has a total of 1932 hectares (4774 acres); average yield is 10.5 tons per year, which represents 2.4% of New Zealand wine production.
- Central Otago benefits from a continental climate, with hot summers, cold winters and long dry autumns – experiencing weather conditions from one extreme to another
- All of the main winegrowing sub-regions lie within close reach, with the distinctive mountainous terrain providing each with a unique climate, aspect and altitude.
- This is the fastest winegrowing region in NZ. In 1997, there were only 500 acres of vines and 14 wineries in Central Otago. By 2007, there were 89 wineries and more than 4,000 acres planted to vines, at least 70% of it Pinot Noir
Cromwell subregion
To the east of Cromwell, the Clutha River feeds the recently dammed Lake Dunstan before emptying into the Cromwell Gorge. To the west the Kawarau River joins the gorge just below the town. Nearly every picture I’ve seen of Central Otago provides breathtaking vistas, deep gorges, large lakes, and craggy mountain tops that divide the subregions.
The map above from the Central Otago Winegrowers Association does seem to list most of the local wineries even if it is a bit dense. It’s well worth checking out for details and stunning visuals.
The flooding of the old town of Cromwell was very disruptive for the townspeople. Some buildings were rebuilt in the new Cromwell. From 1860 to 1900 this was a gold mining area, but now the focus is on Pinot Noir. This is reminiscent of the 1850s California Gold Rush that led to plantings of Zinfandel.
What we are tasting: Rabbit Ranch 2019 Pinot Noir 13.2% ABV, $27.99
On the label: Wild rabbits once roamed on the high country sheep station of the South Island’s Central Otago. This land is now home to their flourishing vineyards. Abundant sunshine and mild summers combined with cool nights provide idyllic conditions for producing fine Pinot Noir. Rabbit Ranch is a vibrant, opulent expression of what makes Central Otago Pinot Noir unique.
“A bright eyed Pinot Noir with a fluffy tail.”
One would think they had rabbits on the brain, huh?
Rabbit Ranch is a collaborative venture, formed by a group of vineyards that were all individually once part of a Central Otago sheep station. The vineyards of Rabbit Ranch are located in the Cromwell Basin, predominately in the Lowburn area.
I watched videos of the punch downs and pump-overs and a very impressive bottling facility. There was a vehicle driving along a snow-laden ridge with only an occasional telephone pole to suggest you’re still on the road. Obviously lots of snow in the winter.
Total Wine: Central Otago, NZ – A bright vibrant red with brilliant clarity and deep ruby hues. There’s a punchy bouquet of dark cherry and sweet spice with rose, violet and plenty of ripe brambly fruit.
James Suckling: 90 Points – Plenty of fried rose, potpourri, wild herbs and leaves on offer here. The palate has a supple, fleshy feel with succulent, drinkable cherries. Drink now.
Since I never fried roses, or even considered it, I’m not clear on how that translates to James’ analysis, but he obviously liked it.
Analysis
The wine was very light in color both from extraction and the character of the grapes. The body was light-medium with tannin way in the background. The wine was very fruit-forward with an abundance of red fruit, good mid-palate and finish. I do like a bit more structure in my Pinots, but anyone that has an issue with tannin will love the wine. It was very easy-drinking and tasty.
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