This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on February 5, 2022. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
On our past virtual trips to Spain it has been the red wines and Sherries of Spain we have focused on, only briefly mentioning the whites other than Albarińo. However there are many good, value-driven white wines in Spain. Some are used to make the sparkling wines of Catalonia but others make good still wines at reasonable prices.
Spanish wine overview
There are over sixty defined wine regions and seven distinct climates within Spain, which is the third largest wine producer and the country with the most acreage devoted to grape vineyards. Below is a brief summary of the major wine regions.
Northwest Spain
Dominated by the Atlantic on its western and northern boundaries, many great whites come from Galicia and Pais Vasco with red and white wines from Castilla y Leon further inland. This is the coolest region in Spain. Albarińo from the Rias Baixas (Rhee-yus By-shus) are lean and mineral-driven near the sea and richer with grapefruit and peach further inland.
White grapes: Albarińo, Godella, Verdejo (primarily in Rueda), and Txakoli
Northeast Spain
Directly below France and extending to the Mediterranean coast, this area includes La Rioja, Navarra, Aragon and the vast coastal area of Catalunya. Rioja Blanco is a rich age-worthy white using the Viura grape, while Cava sparklers use Macabeo, the local name for Viura, along with Xarello and Paralleda.
Southern Spain
The vast area of southern Spain includes Extremadura in the west and Castilla-La Mancha in the central region below Madrid and the Costa del Sol region of Andalucía from Malaga to Cadiz and home to Sherry. Airen is the principal white grape of Castilla-La Mancha and used primarily to make brandy or blended with other whites.
White grapes: Airen is the most planted grape, while Andalucía uses Palomino Fino and Pedro Ximénez and Muscat of Alexandria for Moscatel de Setúbal dessert wines sporting Mandarin orange and honey.
Spanish wine classifications: DOP
- Vino de Pago: Single vineyard wines, 15 total
- DOCa/DOQ: Winery located in same region as grapes, a rigorous standard: Rioja and Priorat
- DO: Quality wines in 79 official wine regions
- IGP: lower standard from larger regional areas
Map courtesy of Vineyards.com, which does excellent and descriptive maps
Aragon Wine Subregions
Aragon lies in the northeast of Spain, right along the center of the Ebro Valley which splits two important mountain ranges: the Pyrenees in the north and the Iberic System in the south. Because of this, the climate in Aragon changes drastically from one region to another, with colder temperature in the areas closer to the Pyrenees while those closer to the Monegros desert could experience unbearable heat.
The Ebro river – Spain’s second largest – cuts the region in half as it flows east towards the Mediterranean. Most winegrowing areas are situated at the foothills of these mountains and share the same limestone and clay-dominant soils. This is presumed to be the origin of Garnacha; one of the most planted grapes. Many old vine Garnacha wines are highly-prized and helped spur the current popularity of this grape. Many insiders consider Aragon to be Spain’s most value-priced wines.
Vineyards in Aragon are classified as DOP or protected designation of origin of which there are four and IGPs of which there are six. The four DOP subregions comprise 60% of the total. The most typical grape used in these wines is the Cariñena, which gave its name to the DO Cariñena, but there are other varieties allowed, such as Juan Ibáñez, Garnacha, Parraleta, Macabeo, Alcañan, Moscatel, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer. Aragon wines have a renowned quality, and are coveted by wine lovers all around the world.
Aragon Designated Origin regions
DO Somontano
Somontano means “at the foot of the mountain” and produces some of Aragon’s best wines. Placed right at the foot of the Pyrenees, the vines in this area are planted in the terraces of the valleys that lead to the northern part of the Ebro Valley. Wine production dates back to the Romans, who planted vines that were later under the care of monks and priests who lived there during the Middle Ages.
The DO Somontano was approved in 1984, and recognized as one of the best DOs in Spain. The grape varieties used are Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Moristel, Parraleta, Tempranillo, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah for red wine; Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Alcañón, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.
DO Cariñena
The Cariñena DO is known for being a pioneer in the wine sector. Wine was so prized that in 1696, the Statute of the Vine was approved. This established where the vineyards should be planted to obtain the best quality wines, and was the predecessor of the present DO Cariñena, which was established in 1932.
The DO Cariñena has always been quite traditional concerning the types of grapes used in their wines. However, they have lately started using other varieties to accommodate to the evolving tastes of the consumers.
DO Calatayud (kuh·la·tai·uhd )
Found in the southwest of the Zaragoza province, the DO Calatayud, established in 1989, is the youngest of all the DOs in Aragon. This area has a very dry climate, with a lot on sun, very cold winters and a large diurnal shift. This influences the ripening of the grapes so the harvesting has to be done later than in other vineyards in Aragon. Far from this being an inconvenience, it gives the DO Calatayud wines the perfect balance between alcohol and sweetness.
DO Campo de Borja
In the northeast of the province of Zaragoza lies Campo de Borja, a small district with its own designation of origin: DO Campo de Borja. The vineyards are heavily-planted in Garnacha, with some of the vines dating back to 1145. These low-yield grapes are highly valued for their complexity and aroma.
DO Campo de Borja produces mainly young red wines and rosé wines, with the production of white wines being less than 8% of the total. Grapes approved include Tempranillo, Mazuela, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah for red wines; Macabeo, Chardonnay and Moscatel for white wines.
Calatayud details
Calatayud is a DOP for wines located in the southwestern corner of the province of Zaragoza (Aragón, Spain) about 90 km from Zaragoza and covers over 13,840 acres, covering 46 different municipalities, including Calatayud itself. It borders with the Cariñena (DO) in the east and with the province of Soria in the west. It is in the Ebro River valley and is crisscrossed by many of the Ebro’s tributaries including the Jalón, Jiloca, Manubles, Mesa (river), Piedra and Ribota. The vineyards are found on the south facing slopes of the Sierra de la Virgen range at heights of between 550 m and 800 m above sea level.
A couple of recent initiatives in Calatayud include the creation of an “old vines” designation from vines of at least 35 years old, as well as the labeling of “Calatayud Superior” for Garnacha from 50-year-old vines and farmed at lower yields.
White grapes of Aragon
Macabeo (Viura): Macabeo is the second most planted white grape in Spain which comprises over 10% of the total. The French Roussillon region across the border also has significant holdings. Its character varies widely depending on the site location and viticultural style employed. In Catalonia and Aragon it’s called Macabeo to differentiate from other regions such as Rioja.
Jancis Robinson calls it the Cinderella grape, indicating that it has great promise as a single varietal and has great ageing potential. She also questions the Rioja regulators decision to ban further planting there while importing Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. “This seems unnecessary to me. The world is not short of Sauvignons and Chardonnays – and are they really the only grapes that imbue fruitiness and freshness? I would have thought that Garnacha Blanca, already allowed into white Rioja, is pretty fruity, and low acidity is not a common fault in today’s white Rioja in my experience.”
Garnacha Blanca (Grenache Blanc): This is the white version of Garnacha, which most likely originated in Catalonia and Aragon. It is having great success in planting worldwide, including the California Central Coast. It is appearing in more white blends in France as well.
Moscatel This grape from the Muscat family identifies grapes from Spain and Portugal and are known as Muscat of Alexandria in France and differentiated from Muscat Blanc a’ Petits Grains, which is a smaller, lighter-skinned grape. It is very aromatic and can be vinified sweet or dry. Also used in Sherry production.
What we are tasting: San Gregorio La Muela Macabe, 14.1% ABV, $11.99 at Total Wine
San Gregorio was established in 1965 as part of the DO Calatayud. They make wine from 750 hectares of vineyard, selecting the best grapes from the Ribota Valley.
The region combines various unique climatic and geographical features at an altitude between 664 and 830 meters above sea level, minimum rainfall and a wide diurnal shift during the ripening period. The vineyards are situated on a mixture of red clay and limestone soils with a high stone content that permits good drainage. All of these factors reinforce the presence of a unique microclimate that favors an environment with very little disease pressure combined with low grape yields.
Made from the Viura grape, also known as Macabeo locally, which is the most planted white grape in Rioja. The vines planted “en vaso” (head-trained) are not irrigated, offering very low production levels. Local soils are rich in limestone, marl and slate.
This is a fresh and clean white wine that is dry with lots of nerve. In this wine, the grape’s natural aromatic freshness shines through.
Winestyleonline.com website notes:
Dry white wine “La Muela” is made from the harvest from the highest sites located on the slopes of the Armantes mountain range, at an altitude of 600 to 1000 m. Macabeo vines planted in the 1970s give rise to sensual white wine. This sample of freshness is filled with floral and fruity tones, which are added to the pungent tension by brackish nuances. The wine has an excellent price-quality ratio.
Aroma: The expressive aroma of the wine reveals hints of tropical and stone fruits (peach), pears, white flowers and minerals.
Palate: The rounded, even slightly oily taste of the wine shows a beautiful palette of shades of lychee, green apple, pear, and peach. Fresh acidity in a long finish is complemented by notes of minerals, white pepper, lime and almonds.
Rias Baixas and Albarińo
Over 99% of all wine produced in Rías Baixas is white. Differences in microclimates, terroir and grape varieties in the five sub-zones, as well as different winemaking techniques, make for wonderful diversity. Styles range from a crisp, aromatic “melony” character in Val do Salnés, to a peachier, softer style in O Rosal, and a less fruity and earthier style in Condado do Tea.
Albarińo is called “the wine of the sea” as the Atlantic imbues a saline character in the wine and it harmonizes with the local seafood. This wine was made for oysters.
While the different sub-zones express subtle differences, the wines all share a number of characteristics. Pale golden lemon, they are all crisp, elegant and fresh. These wines are bone-dry and aromatic, packed with flavors of white peach, apricot, melon, pineapple, mango and honeysuckle. They share good natural acidity, have mineral overtones, and are medium bodied with moderate alcohol (12%).
DO Rías Baixas permit eight types of wine:
- Rías Baixas
- Rías Baixas Albariño –100% Albariño, grapes can be sourced from any sub-zone
- Rías Baixas Salnés – designated subregion
- Rías Baixas Condado – designated subregion
- Rías Baixas Rosal – designated subregion
- Rías Baixas Barrica – wines aged in oak, can be red or white
- Rías Baixas Tinto – red wine, less than 1% of all production
- Rías Baixas Espumoso – sparkling wine, limited production
Practically speaking most of what we see in the US will be Rías Baixas Albariño, although our sampled wine comes exclusively from the Val de Salnés, it is not so indicated on the bottle.
Grape varieties
While fourteen grape varieties are permitted in the DO, the white Albariño grape represents 96% of all plantings. Other important permitted grapes include Treixadura, traditionally blended with Albariño; and Loureiro, a high-quality local variety particularly associated with O Rosal. Caiño Blanco, Torrontes and Godello are also planted to a lesser extent throughout the region.
Viticulture
Planting Albariño at the proper height and exposure to ensure even, healthy ripening is essential to quality. Vines are traditionally widely spaced and trained on granite pergolas. To counter the region’s rainfall and humidity, most vines are trained on a wire trellis called a “parra” anchored by granite posts.
Parras are up to seven feet high, allowing breezes to flow through for maximum circulation to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening. Some vineyards are replacing this with a European double cordon system called espaldera. Throughout the region, yields are low, ranging from three to five tons per acre.
The grapes are hand-picked in small plastic 40 pound crates and then delivered to the winery to avoid oxidation. The must is fermented in temperature controlled, stainless steel fermenters.
Subregions of Rías Baixas
Rías Baixas Albarińo producers can sources their grapes from one or more of the five subregions depending on the character of wine they want to make.
Map courtesy of jackyblisson.com Master of Wine
As noted above three of these subregions carry their own label designations; Val do Salnés, Condado Do Tea and O Rosal.
Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. Located on the Atlantic coast, it surrounds the historic town of Cambados. This is the original and oldest sub-region with the most area under vine and the highest concentration of wineries. The soil is granite and rocky with alluvial top-soil. It is also the coolest and wettest sub-region with an average temperature of just 55º F. The vines are mounted as high as seven feet to prevent mildew and bacterial infection of the grapes. The granite pergolas stand as silent guardians of the vineyard.
What we are tasting: Martin Codax Albarińo 2020, ABV 12.5%, $11.99 at Total Wine
From the website: Martín Códax is made with grapes exclusively from selected plots in the “Val do Salnés” following a rigorous and careful process to guarantee its varietal purity and the traditional essence of the original wines of this valley. Each glass of our wine keeps the essence of the Atlantic.
(Check out tienda.martincodax.com for awesome videos.)
- Bodegas Martín Códax was founded in 1986 and was named after the legendary Galician troubadour whose medieval poems, the oldest in the Galician-Portuguese language, are preserved with his music.
- The winery was founded by a group of winegrowers as a winery of 270 members, and also relies on the collaboration of 300 families whose grapes are supplied to them.
- The vineyards are situated in small parcels, using the typical system of “emparrado” as mentioned above. Pictures of this system can be found on the website.
- In 2005, Katia Álvarez began to manage the winemaking department.
“The Martín Códax Rías Baixas Albariño is delicate and medium-bodied with a crisp, dry finish. On the palate, flavors of pear, passion fruit, ripe apple, peach and lemon zest are framed by bright minerality and hints of spice. Attractive floral aromatics and brisk acidity make this a versatile, food-friendly wine.”
Analysis
Martin Códax was the first Albariño I ever tried and is still one of my favorites. It evokes the sea so well, charged with great energy, bright fruit, crisp minerality and bracing acidity. Tasting it was like going back to an old friend. The Macabeo, by contrast, is richer and fuller-bodied, dry and refreshing with a long complex finish. Both wines are only twelve bucks, which is a small amount to pay for such wonderfully evocative Spanish whites.
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