Riesling: The Misunderstood Grape

This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on March 19, 2022. This show was originally going to air on March 5 and then March 12. That did not work out, but we finally did the show on March 19.

We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.

Although by now many wine drinkers know Riesling wines can range in sweetness from bone dry to syrupy; others have assumed they are all sweet. That is why many producers mark their wines dry Riesling to clue in those hesitant to try them. Others use a sweetness scale on the back label to indicate where on the scale a particular wine resides. Riesling seldom takes to oak so its rich fruit palate shines through. It also seldom is used in a blend if it’s the principal grape.

My favorite primer for Riesling is Riesling Rules by Pacific Rim at www.Rieslingrules.com which is a complete compendium of the grape in a small pamphlet. Pacific Rim was voted Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiasts magazine. I mention it because reading it convinced me to reevaluate Riesling.

Riesling: the grape

As one of the noble grapes, Riesling is grown worldwide, but as with many other grapes where it is grown indicates what type of wine to expect. Below is the breakdown.

• Germany 45%: Rheingau, Mosel, Pfalz, Rheinhessen (left bank)
• United States 12%: Washington, California, New York
• Australia 10%: Clare Valley, Adelaide Hills
• France 9%: Alsace
• Ukraine 8%:
• Austria 6%: Lower Austria
• Moldova, Hungary, Czech Republic
• Flavor profile: Lime, green apple, beeswax, jasmine, and petroleum
• Serving temperature: 45-55 degrees, Cellar 5 to 10 years

Characteristics by region (Wine Folly)

• Germany: High in acidity, off-dry and aromatic with apricot, Meyer Lemon, beeswax, petroleum and wet slate
• Alsace: Lean, minerally, dry with green apple, lime, lemon, smoke, Thai basil
• South Australia: Dry and minerally citrus with lime peel, green apple, green papaya, jasmine, diesel

Riesling by Region

Contrasting Riesling from different wine regions, as noted above, is a good way to determine what region is your favorite for this grape.

Washington State:

We talked about the wines of Washington State in the past, and covered the state’s most prolific white wine grapes; Chardonnay and Riesling. I’ve consumed more Riesling from here than Germany and Alsace combined, although this is their signature white wine grape as well. I’d have to admit that economics does play a part as the price of a good Riesling here is much lower than in the Old World. Styles are also different, drier in Washington, slightly higher alcohol.

Washington State wine history

Washington’s first grapes were planted at Fort Vancouver by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1825. By 1910, wine grapes were growing in many areas of the state, following the path of early settlers. French, German and Italian immigrants pioneered the earliest plantings as had been the case in many parts of the world.

Prohibition in 1920 crippled a growing industry as it did in so many places, but helped spawn early interest in home winemaking. At the end of Prohibition the first bonded winery in the Northwest was founded on Puget Sound’s Stretch Island. By 1938 there were 42 wineries located throughout the state. Also in 1967 American Wine Growers and National Wine Co. merged to form what became Chateau Ste. Michelle; now the state’s largest and most important winery. It was also the first to devote itself to vitus vinifera (Old World grapes) plantings.

• The biggest boost to quality for all planted grapes was the arrival of Andre Tchelistcheff; one of the first Masters of Wine (MW) in California.
• It was Tchelistcheff who helped guide Chateau Ste. Michelle’s early efforts and mentored modern winemaking in Washington.

Washington State Riesling

This white grape variety originated in the Rhine region of Germany. It’s an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas and features high acidity. It is a very versatile grape used to make dry, off-dry, sweet, and sparkling white wines. Riesling wines are usually varietally pure and are seldom oaked to permit their fruity and mineral elements full expression.

• Washington State has long had a reputation for crafting world-class Riesling, with the first plantings around 1880, pre-dating statehood by at least a decade.

Today, Riesling remains a force in Washington, being the No. 4 grape, trailing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay in total tonnage harvested. It topped 40,000 tons in the 2016 harvest, doubling from the previous 10 years.

The largest user of Riesling is Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, which makes more Riesling than any single winery in the world. Just check any local supermarket, you will see that label time and again. One of their signature wines is Eroica; a joint venture of the winery and Dr Ernest Loosen of Germany

Washington Wine Regions

There are only two major wine regions; Puget Sound in the west, which experiences a lot of rain. I’ve spent a lot of time here and boy; did I mention they get a lot of rain? White wine grapes work best here like Muller-Thurgau and Melon the grape that makes the wonderful Muscadet wines. The other wine region is Columbia Valley, of which many wine lovers are familiar.

• Columbia Valley AVA established in 1984, located in eastern Washington and part of Oregon.
• Region contains 50,316 acres of vineyards and 99% of state’s wine. Napa Valley has 45,000 acres. The state total is now 60,000 acres.
• There are 14 AVAs including Walla Walla Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills, Wahluke Slope, Lake Chelam, Snipes Mountain and Yakima Valley.
• Annual rainfall averages 6 to 8 inches and that’s dry. The Gobi Desert in Mongolia gets 7.6 inches! In Western Washington it is 35-38 inches and that’s real wet!
• The Columbia River, and snowmelt from the Cascade Mountains, supplies the region’s water
• Columbia Valley soils are predominantly loess (wind-blown silt and sand soils created by the Missoula Floods) and result in wines with increased aromatics

Yakima Valley AVA

Yakima Valley, established in 1983, is the Pacific Northwest’s oldest AVA, predating the Columbia Valley by about a year. Although within the Columbia Valley it is often treated separately. Incredibly diverse in terms of climate from west to east, the region produces all manner of red and white varieties with wines encompassing a broad range of styles. It also encompasses three distinctive sub-AVAs in its own right: Red Mountain, Snipes Mountain, and Rattlesnake Hills.

Rattlesnake Hills AVA (2006): One of Washington’s more recently established AVAs, Rattlesnake Hills is located within both the Yakima and Columbia Valley appellations and boasts ridge top vineyards over 3,000 feet in elevation that benefit from excellent water and air drainage. With 1,500 vine acres and 17 wineries, the region specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Riesling.

The map was cropped from a larger map; courtesy YakimaValleywinecountry.com

What we are tasting: Two Mountain 2019 Riesling 13.0%, ABV, $18.99 Total Wine

From the website: So, when life and a heavy dose of fate provided us the opportunity to make the winery a true test of our brotherly love, we jumped at the chance and purchased it from our family in 2006. What was once Schmidt Orchards, planted by our grandfather, Phil Schmidt in 1951, became Copeland Vineyard that we planted with our uncle, Ron Schmidt, in 2000.

Fast forward to now, and you will find us living, breathing and drinking our work. We offer a versatile collection of estate grown wines. Our unique “working facility” exudes a welcoming, approachable and educational experience for all wine-lovers. Our name, Two Mountain Winery, was inspired by the majestic views of Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier, which serve as the backdrop of Copeland Vineyard.

At the end of the day, it is our job to make wine. It’s in our best interest to make good wine. We really like doing it, for us and for you. (Plus, we’ve been self-employed for too long – nobody would hire us now!)

Copeland Vineyard: Located in Rattlesnake Hills the oldest AVA in Yakima Valley at an elevation of 1265 Ft. Acreage: 26.2, Slope & aspect 8-15%, south facing.

Tasting notes: This off-dry style exudes hints of hay, green pear, wild flowers and dust on the nose combine with incredible tastes of ripe citrus, green apple, and a hint of minerality. This wine lasts forever on your tongue.

Germany Wines

When we think about German wines, Riesling is the first grape we consider. Germany is the biggest producer of Riesling in every style from dry and lean to richly sweet. However, there are several varietals at which Germany excels. There are 70 common varieties of grapes, grown on 252,000 plus acres of land.

German grapes:

• Riesling- primarily grown in southern Germany along the Rhine and Mosel
• Muller-Thurgau – is the second most prolific grape grown in same places as Riesling
• Pinot Noir – Grown in the southernmost portions including Württemberg above Stuttgart and Pfalz
• Dornfelder – the other popular red wine grape, grown I same places as Pinot Noir and in Rheinhessen
• Sylvaner, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc round out the other top grapes

German wine regions

There are 13 defined wine regions in Germany although Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Pfalz are the ones most wine drinkers recognize.

• Baden, Württemberg and parts of Pfalz focus on red wines
• Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Nahe and Mosel Valley produce the most Riesling
• Tiny Ahr below Bonn is known for exceptional Pinot Noir
• The far-flung regions of Sachsen, and Saale-Unstrut produce quality Pinot Blanc

German wine quality levels

Typical of Old World countries, Germany defines different quality levels, sweetness levels and select or reserve requirements. This gives rise to many confusing terms, often appended to a term one might actually recognize. Many lower levels are not exported except for Liebfraumilch, which everyone knows and which gave German wine a black eye many years ago. Many wine drinkers think most German wines are sweet, and a large proportion are at least off-dry, but when it comes to really sweet wines, few can top German TBA and Eiswein versions.

Qualitatswein: Wine made with approved grapes sourced from one of the 13 regions. Chaptalization (adding sugar to low brix grapes) is permitted.

Pradikatswein: Wines are qualified by ripeness level and minimum alcohol levels. Chaptalization not allowed. The defined sweetness levels are:

• Kabinett: lightest style Riesling, can be dry or off-dry
• Spatlese: Late harvest, rich and usually sweeter than Kabinett unless the term trocken is on label
• Auslese: Select harvest, grapes hand-selected and have noble rot. Wines can be very sweet or dry with high alcohol if labeled Trocken
• Beerenauslese: Berry select harvest, rare, raisinated with noble rot
• Trockenbeerenauslese: Dry berry, select harvest, the rarest wine made with raisinated grapes that dried out on the vine.
• Eiswein: Ice wine, frozen on the wine and then pressed

Pfalz wine region

The Pfalz is one of Germany’s largest regions (and Germany’s largest red wine region), producing every third bottle of German wine purchased domestically. The word Pfalz is a derivation of the Latin word palatium, meaning palace. The English equivalent, Palatinate, is sometimes used to refer to the Pfalz.

The Pfalz is a narrow stretch of land just 9 miles (15km) wide that extends peacefully through a gentle landscape of budding vineyards, fertile orchards and picturesque, half-timbered villages. It is the second largest German wine region by growing area and only topped by Rheinhessen, which it borders to the north.

From there, the Pfalz stretches to the French border 53 miles (85km) to the south and borders the French wine growing region of Alsace. Near the French city of Wissembourg, some vineyards even reach across the border into France. To the west, it is sheltered by the uplands of the Pfälzerwald, which protect it from cold winds and heavy rainfall. To the east, it is bordered by the lowlands of the Rhine River. It is a beautiful, idyllic landscape that reaches a ratio of grapevines to people of 600:1.

Map courtesy of winefornormalpeople.libsyn.com

Before the phylloxera epidemic erased many of the vines in the Pfalz at the end of the 19th century, wines from here were among the most expensive and most highly prized in the world. Riesling from the Pfalz was served at important international events, including the opening ceremony of the Suez Canal in 1869.

The Pfalz benefits from almost perfect conditions for viticulture and is one of the warmest German wine growing regions with around 1,800 hours of sunshine per year. Summers are dry, but not too hot, and winters tend to be mild, creating near-Mediterranean microclimates. The climate is mild enough for almonds and other warmer weather plants to thrive.

The soil is varied and ranges from sandstone, limestone, marl, loess-loam and granite to isolated stretches of slate. Limestone is particularly common in the northern Pfalz, while loess and loam are more prevalent in the southern Pfalz.

Riesling is by far the most important white wine grape and continues to grow in importance. In 2008, the Pfalz became the largest Riesling growing area in the world with almost 5,500 hectares of plantings.

So now that you’ve had a primer on German wines, you know why so many people pass them by when they wine shop.

What we are tasting: Gerd Anselmann Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2020 13.0% ABV $18.99 Total Wine

This is a huge winery in Pfalz offering hundreds of wines both red, white and Rose as well as sparkling wines. The winery has a beautiful restaurant on premise, Brunnenterrasse. Note the word trocken on the label to indicate it’s a dry wine.

Tasting notes: A wine with a light, yellow-green color typical of Riesling. Its bouquet is reminiscent of lemons, apricots and apples. This fresh, finesse-rich bouquet is typical of Riesling. A dry white wine that is very refreshing and invigorating in the mouth. Also noteworthy is the long, fresh finish that lingers on the palate for a long time.

Analysis

This was a wonderful comparison of two wines, with similar growing conditions, price and alcohol level. You might have noted both had a long finish with bracing acidity. Both are great food-pairing wines of modest cost versus the quality of the wine. And both come from opposite ends of the earth, but confirm what Jancis Robinson considers the best white grape in the world. If you have not explored this grape in all its guises you are long overdue in starting.