Our first show since I returned from vacation in Sedona I decided to address inflation, which has hit every aspect of life on this planet, and that includes wine. For those of us that love French wines, finding areas with a high quality to cost ratio have been looking to the Languedoc-Roussillon region for red white and rosé wines. Keeping with the French theme we’ll be accompanied by the music of Maurice Ravel, a French impressionist on our journey. All this on Salon Saturday.
French wine on a budget: Languedoc-Roussillon
Because this is new terrain for some wine lovers, an exploration of the various subregions of this southernmost wine region will be helpful in meeting expectations. That means some of its history, the grapes, the subregions, and the wines will be on review. This subregion in southern France has been making more and more quality wines, particularly in reds and Rose, but white as well. Located to the west of the Rhone Valley, it extends along the Mediterranean Sea to the Spanish border. It contains both coastal, valley and mountainous areas.
- Languedoc covers the northern part and much of the coast, 90% of total production
- Roussillon is more southerly, with some subregions further from the coast, 10% of total
- Roussillon makes 80% of France’s vin doux naturels (VDNs). These fortified sweet wines retain their sugars after fermentation is stopped by the addition of a spirit.
- The region is divided into AOC subregions (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and IGP (Protected Geographical Indication)
- AOC subregions have much stricter rules for wine production and are the earliest attempts at quality control.
- Largest wine region in the world, 700,000 acres, 1/3 of all French production
- The largest producer of organic wines in France and the biggest producer of IGP and AOC rosé wines in the country, even exceeding production in Provence.
Montpellier is the principal city, a great place for tourists to visit. During the phylloxera blight that destroyed much of Frances vines the city received 400,000 rootstock cuttings from Missouri in 1872 after Charles Valentine Riley, Missouri’s state entomologist realized the vine blight was caused by the phylloxera louse. North American vines are impervious to the nasty little creature as its roots have a tougher outer core they have trouble penetrating.
Montpellier is also home to large nurseries that are a source of cuttings for the country’s grape varieties and home to an enological center. In the twentieth century the École d’Agriculture de Montpellier emerged as the most esteemed centre of oenology, wine education and viticultural studies in the whole world.
Geography
Primarily the region has a Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and mild springs, autumns, and winters. There are, however, varying microclimates throughout. They can be broken down into five groups.
- Mountain: In the north of the region, the climate tends to be more continental, similar to that of nearby Rhône.
- Coastal: Along the coast, there is a strong Mediterranean influence, with abundant sunshine.
- South: In the southern part the climate is suitable for production of late-ripening grapes.
- Center: In the heart of the region, the climate is classically Mediterranean.
- West: In the west, the region experiences a mix of continental and Atlantic influences, which help create ideal conditions for Languedoc’s sparkling wines.
Overall, the region receives little rainfall, in some areas the lowest in France. But the Languedoc has reserves of water in most of its calcareous soils. Clay and limestone soils are the most dominant, although there are areas where schist, shale, granite, pebbles, and sandstone are common.
History
The Greeks brought winemaking skills to this area in the 5th century BCE. The construction of the Canal du Midi in the 17th century, connected to the Canal de Garonne in Bordeaux was a significant engineering feat and along with the rails permitted easy access to markets. The entire link from Atlantic to Mediterranean is called the Canal des Deux Mers; appropriate the canal between two seas. Early on the focus was on quantity production, which was curtailed by the Phylloxera scourge in 1868. As in other wine regions grafting unto American root stock solved that problem.
- In 1938, Blanquette de Limoux was granted AOC status and became the first AOC established in the Languedoc region—and one of the earliest AOCs in France.
By the mid-70s Languedoc producers began shifting their focus toward standards that would raise the region’s level of quality. Selection and research into soil makeup, vineyard management, yield control, and winemaking methods led to a restructuring of the Languedoc region and the creation of new AOCs.
Appellations of Languedoc
Although the major share of Languedoc’s production is still made up of IGP wines, currently there are 23 AOCs in the region, representing about 16 percent of its total production. Also note that some IGP classifications represent areas much like an AOC.
AOC Languedoc was originally called Coteaux de Languedoc, but the label now can includes grapes from anywhere in the Languedoc. The category Vins du Pay d’Oc has been replaced with IGP; a flexible standard for wines that seldom defines the grapes, but often defines a subregion. Jancis Robinson has stated she finds the IGP wines most interesting. AOC Languedoc is the overriding category, followed by 10 Sub-regional appellations, 5 Commune or Village appellations, 4 Sweet wine and 3 sparkling wine appellations AOCs.
There are 10 Sub-regional Appellations; the most important are:
- AOC Corbières (red, white, rosé)
- AOC Limoux (still wines; red, white)
- AOC Minervois known for rich, spicy red wines
- AOC Picpoul de Pinet (white)
- AOC Saint-Chinian (red, white, rosé)
There are 5 Commune or Village Appellations; the most important are:
- AOC Corbières Boutenac (red)
- AOC Faugères (red, white, rosé)
There are 4 Sweet Wine Appellations; the most important are:
- AOC Muscat de Frontignan (white)
- AOC Muscat de Saint-Jean-de-Minervois (white)
There are 3 Sparkling Wine Appellations:
- AOC Blanquette de Limoux (white) in 1938
- AOC Crémant de Limoux (white, rosé)
- AOC Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Ancestrale
Principal grapes
Languedoc’s AOC wines are predominantly red blends made with Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault. Their flavor profile is dominated by red fruit and spices and is often associated with an herb blend called garrigue, containing rosemary, thyme, sage, lavender, and juniper that is typical of the region. Rosé wines also make use of these grapes.
Grenache: While typically smooth and delicate, Grenache provides structure to Languedoc blends. It also has an aromatic flavor profile and an exceptional ability to age (provided yields have been controlled). Grenache is often combined with more tannic grapes, such as Syrah and Mourvèdre, in the region’s red blends. It produces round, elegant wines with notes of cherry and plum in youth, and jam, cocoa, and mocha with age.
Syrah: Wines made with Syrah tend to be robust and high in alcohol and tannins, which makes them good candidates for aging. Syrah gives low-acid, deeply colored, fruity wines with red fruit and strong floral notes, with hints of licorice, ginger, and spice.
Carignan: Grown throughout the southern Mediterranean, Carignan is a low-yield variety that produces powerful, intensely colored wines with strong tannins. It helps build the foundation in Languedoc blends, where it’s often combined with other, finer grapes, such as Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Carignan offers red and black fruit notes as well as typical regional notes of garrigue. Peppery, balsamic notes may develop as Carignan ages.
Mourvèdre: Mourvèdre produces bold, full-bodied, tannic wines that are deep in color and firm in structure. It contributes complexity to Languedoc blends, and its flavor profile features blackberries, blueberries, and black currant, as well as baking spices and herbal garrigue notes. It needs a long growing season to reach maturity.
Cinsault: Known for its supple, juicy, and fruity wines, Cinsault yields wines that tend to be light ruby in color with notes of sour red berries, like strawberries, currants, and cranberries. This grape is also used in the production of the Languedoc’s excellent rosé wines.
White Grapes
Grenache Blanc: Grenache Blanc is the fourth most widely planted white grape in France, and the most widely planted white in southern France. It’s drought-resistant, vigorous, easy to graft and ripens fairly early right after Viognier and Marsanne. Like its Grenache Noir counterpoint it originated in Spain. In blends Grenache Blanc contributes rich mouthfeel, crisp acidity and a long finish.
Marsanne: This is the white workhorse grape of the Southern Rhône and much of Southern France. Marsanne is a sturdy, hardy grape that produces a full-bodied wine – with the heft of a good Chardonnay, but a less complex palate. It provides the base of many white blends as a result that build on its base structure.
Roussanne: Roussanne is named for its russet-colored skin. The grapes are somewhat prone to rot, but high in acidity and aromatic qualities. It’s a racy, lively wine that has the potential to age – setting it apart from the other Rhone whites.
Viognier: is famous for the rich and exotically perfumed white wines in the Condrieu and Château-Grillet regions of northern Rhône. It was presumed to have been transported there from Dalmatia by Emperor Probus in AD 281. Not personally, of course.
Clairette: Clairette has been around since the 1500s. It is used in the production of white and Rose blends. It is famously used in red Chateauneuf de Pape. Clairette, with its ability to deliver both low alcohol and high acidity is used in a blend to add acidity. Flavors include green apple, lime, peach, licorice, white peach and floral characteristics. It is also used in the production of Vermouth.
Picpoul (Piquepoul) is an ancient white grape variety of the Languedoc. The name Picpoul translates as “stings the lip”, and is a reference to the grape’s mouthwateringly high acidity. The best Picpoul wines are from the Picpoul de Pinet AOC. The variety’s ability to keep its acidity even in a hot, Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect choice for the region, making taut, full-bodied white wines with herbal and citrus aromas.
Subregions: a short list
St. Chinian: Located in the middle of Languedoc Roussillon and uses Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault to form its blends.
Faugères: Located very close to Saint Chinian. Faugères is in the hills off the coast with a high percentage of schist soils; perfect for aromatic reds such as Grenache, creating wines that are smoother and rounder than its neighbor.
Corbières: just to the north is an exciting appellation, with scores of ambitious, dedicated smallholders making herby, slightly wild red wines of real quality and integrity.
Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux: We did a show on this wine and rumored to be one of Thomas Jefferson’s favorite wines. And a good value as are many of the Crémant wines.
Sable de Camargue: is the IGP title for wines made along the Mediterranean coast of eastern Languedoc in the south of France. With the Mediterranean coast on the east and the Pyrenees to the south, the region’s varying terroir make a broad spectrum of rosés. Diversity in soil types, ocean breezes and Southern France’s sun develop unique vintages and colors from unripe peach to deep coral.
Recommendation: Dune Gris De Gris 12.5% ABV, $10.99 (was $11.99)
This is one of my favorite Rose wines. Pink grapefruit, peach, crisp with nice minerality. This one will surprise and delight you. From the land of sand and flamingos; Sable de Camargue.
Tasting Notes: preserved lemon, honeydew melon, white blossoms, white peach, crushed rocks
Recommendation: Hugues Beauvignac Picpoul, 12.5% ABV, $13.99 (was $11.99)
Picpoul de Pinet AOC. A white wine appellation produced with the regional zesty white wine variety, Picpoul. The appellation covers over 3200 acres overlooking the salt water lagoon of the Bassin de Thau, where oysters and mussels are farmed. These are my favorite wines for oysters; done anyway.
Corbières AOC (est 1985)
Corbières is the Languedoc-Roussillon region’s largest AOC, with 46% of the region’s production in 2005. Red wine dominates with almost 95 % and Carignan is the most common grape. The AOC covers 133,000 acres and produces an average of 554,000 hectoliters of wine per year, or 74 million bottles.
Due to its size and geography, Corbières encompasses an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates, with 11 terroir defined areas and Boutenac has its own AOC designation.
Rcommendation: Luc Pirlet 2018 Corbieres, 13% ABV, $11.99 (was $10.99)
Rugged mountains and Mediterranean sun leave their mark on this ripe red. Spicy notes of black pepper and cooked cherries dominate the palate, while intense notes of white pepper, lilac and raspberry drift across the nose. This red blend is 40% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 30% Syrah. Luc Pirlet is a big producer for Total Wine with several varietals available at the store.
French Impressionist: Maurice Ravel
Impressionist composers spent little time echoing the music of the classical and romantic periods. Debussy in particular focused on interplay between motifs and short vignettes. Ravel showed comparatively greater reverence for formalism, as did his student Ralph Vaughan Williams, but none of them rigidly adhered to traditional forms.
Impressionistic music makes use of chromatic scales, pentatonic scales, whole tone scales, and brief flourishes of atonality. These techniques had also been in the works Chopin, Liszt and Wagner. Still, the full scale embrace of such harmonic concepts was considered a bold step forward.
Impressionist composers were known for experimenting with the textural and timbral* potential of orchestral instruments, with the purpose of creating emotive moods and atmospheres. Ravel in particular was fascinated with the interplay of various instruments and the resulting harmonics and dissonances.
*Timbre: character or quality of a musical sound or voice as distinct from its pitch and intensity
Joseph Maurice Ravel (7 March 1875 – 28 December 1937) was a French composer, pianist and conductor. He is often associated with Impressionism along with Claude Debussy, but both composers rejected the term. His total output was modest as he worked slowly and tirelessly on most of his works.
- Ravel developed a style of great clarity, incorporating elements of modernism, baroque, neoclassicism and later jazz.
- Because he was a great orchestrator, he redid many of his piano pieces in orchestral form.
- Many of his piano pieces were grouped together around a central theme, such as Sonatine, Miroirs and Le Tombeau de Couperin
Major Works and Compositions
- Pavane pour une infante défunte or Pavane for a Dead Princess (1899)
- Jeux d’eau (1901), also known as “Fountains” or “Playing Water,” dedicated to Fauré
- String Quartet (1903), in F major and four movements
- Sonatine (circa 1904), in three parts for solo piano;
- Miroirs (1905), in five parts for solo piano
- Introduction et Allegro (1905) for harp, flute, clarinet and string quartet
- Gaspard de la nuit (1908), in three parts for the solo piano
- Ma mère l’Oye (1910) or Mother Goose Suite for piano four hands, orchestrated in 1911
- Le Tombeau de Couperin (1917), a suite in six parts for solo piano
- Rapsodie espagnole (1907) for two pianos and later an orchestral piece
- Boléro (1929) a symphonic work for large orchestra
- Ballet Daphnis et Chloé (1912), commissioned by Sergey Diaghilev
- La Valse (1920), served as a ballet and concert work.
- Pictures at an Exhibition by Modest Mussorgsky for 2 pianos orchestrated by Ravel (1922)
- Piano Concerto in G major (1931) shows the influence of jazz
There have been other orchestrations of Mussorgsky’s work, but Ravel’s is invariably the one chosen. As the title suggests Mussorgsky’s inspiration came from an exhibition of works by architect and painter Viktor Hartmann put on at the Imperial Academy of Arts in Saint Petersburg.
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