The largest wine region in the world is also one of the most varied, has some of the best wine values, but does encompass many subregions of which most wine lovers are unfamiliar. We intend to change that. We’ll also summarize the results of a wine tasting event from June 18. Then we finally get back to the best musicals of the 21st century on film. Finally a new book review of a wine area many do not even know; Georgia, the country, not the state. All this on Salon Saturday.
Languedoc-Roussillon
While we have mentioned this very large wine region many times we’ve seldom explored it fully. The history, grapes, subregions, and wines are covered in a broad sweep, others we’ll focus on. We feature four wines selected from Languedoc, which will be analyzed at a July 2 wine tasting event I’m setting up.
This wine region in southern France has been making more and more quality wines, particularly in reds and Rose, but white as well. Located to the west of the Rhone Valley, it extends along the Mediterranean Sea to the Spanish border. It contains both coastal, valley and mountainous areas.
- Languedoc covers the northern part and close to the coast, 90% of total production
- Roussillon is more southerly, with some subregions further from the coast, 10% of total
- Roussillon makes 80% of France’s vin doux naturels (VDNs). These fortified sweet wines retain their natural sugars after fermentation is stopped by the addition of spirits.
- The region is divided into AOC subregions and IGP-rated subregions
- Largest wine region in the world, 700,000 acres, 1/3 of French production
- The largest producer of organic wines in France and the biggest producer of IGP and AOC rosé wines in the country, exceeding the production of Provence.
Geography
Primarily the region has a Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and mild springs, autumns, and winters. There are, however, varying microclimates throughout. They can be broken down into five groups.
- Mountain: In the north of the region, the climate tends to be more continental, similar to that of nearby Rhône.
- Coastal: Along the coast, there is a strong Mediterranean influence, with abundant sunshine.
- South: In the southern part of the region, the warmer climate is suitable for production of Carignan and other late-harvesting grapes.
- Center: In the heart of the region, the climate is classically Mediterranean.
- West: In the west, the region experiences a mix of continental and Atlantic influences, which help create ideal conditions for Languedoc’s sparkling wines.
Overall, the region receives little rainfall, in some areas the lowest in France. But the Languedoc has reserves of water in most of its calcareous soils. Clay and limestone soils are the most dominant, although there are areas where schist, shale, granite, pebbles, and sandstone are common.
History
The Greeks brought winemaking skills to this area in the 5th century BCE. Early on the focus was on quantity production, which was curtailed by the Phylloxera scourge in 1868. As in other wine regions grafting unto American root stock solved that problem. The construction of the Canal du Midi in the 17th century, connected to the Canal de Garonne in Bordeaux was a significant engineering feat and along with the rails permitted easy access to markets. The entire link from Atlantic to Mediterranean is called the Canal des Deux Mers or the canal between two seas.
- Montpellier received 400,000 rootstock cuttings from Missouri in 1872 after Charles Valentine Riley, Missouri’s state entomologist who realized the vine blight was caused by phylloxera louse. Montpellier provides wine cuttings globally to wineries.
- In 1938, Blanquette de Limoux was granted AOC status and became the first AOC established in the Languedoc region—and one of the earliest AOCs in France.
By the mid-70s Languedoc producers looked to standards to raise the region’s level of quality. Selection and research into soil makeup, vineyard management, yield control, and winemaking methods led to a restructuring of Languedoc and the creation of new AOCs. (Map courtesy www.terroir-france.com/)
Appellations of Languedoc
Although the major share of Languedoc’s production is still made up of IGP wines, currently there are 23 AOCs in the region, representing about 16 percent of its total production. However, some IGP classifications represent areas much like an AOC.
AOC Languedoc was originally called Coteaux de Languedoc, but the label now can include grapes from anywhere in the Languedoc. The category Vins du Pay d’Oc has been replaced with IGP; a flexible standard for wines that seldom defines the grapes, but often defines a subregion. Jancis Robinson has stated she finds the IGP wines most interesting.
The Languedoc is my adoptive French home. I see it as Provence without the tourists, without too many incomers like me pushing up prices and without, regrettably, the ubiquitous smell of lavender, thyme and pines. It is, however, archetypal Mediterranean wine country, with wild landscapes, Spain just over the Pyrenees, and vines stretching in every direction. Jancis Robinson
AOC Languedoc is the overriding category, followed by 10 Sub-regional appellations, 5 Commune or Village appellations, 4 Sweet wine and 3 sparkling wine appellations AOCs. The most important of these are listed and those in bold are covered below.
There are 10 Sub-regional Appellations:
- AOC Corbières (red, white, rosé)
- AOC Limoux (still wines; red, white)
- AOC Minervois known for rich, spicy red wines
- AOC Picpoul de Pinet (white)
- AOC Saint-Chinian (red, white, rosé)
There are 5 Commune or Village Appellations:
- AOC Faugères (red, white, rosé)
- AOC Minervois la Livinière (red)
There are 4 Sweet Wine Appellations:
- AOC Muscat de Frontignan (white)
- AOC Muscat de Saint-Jean-de-Minervois (white)
There are 3 Sparkling Wine Appellations:
- AOC Blanquette de Limoux (white)
- AOC Crémant de Limoux (white, rosé)
- AOC Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Ancestrale
Principal grapes
Languedoc’s AOC wines are predominantly red blends made with Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault. Their flavor profile is dominated by red fruit and spices and is often associated with an herb blend called garrigue, containing rosemary, thyme, sage, lavender, and juniper that is typical of the region. Rosé wines also make use of these grapes.
Grenache: While typically smooth and delicate, Grenache provides structure to Languedoc blends. It also has an aromatic flavor profile and an exceptional ability to age (provided yields are controlled). Grenache is often combined with more tannic grapes, such as Syrah and Mourvèdre to produce round, elegant wines with notes of cherry and plum in youth, and jam, cocoa, and mocha with age.
Syrah: Wines made with Syrah tend to be robust and high in alcohol and tannins, which makes them good candidates for aging. Syrah gives low-acid, deeply colored, fruity wines with red fruit and strong floral notes, with hints of licorice, ginger, and spice.
Carignan: Grown throughout the southern Mediterranean, Carignan is a low-yield variety that produces powerful, intensely colored wines with strong tannins. It helps build the foundation in Languedoc blends, often combined with Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Carignan offers red and black fruit notes as well as notes of garrigue. Peppery, balsamic notes may develop as Carignan ages.
Mourvèdre: Mourvèdre produces bold, full-bodied, tannic wines that are deep in color and firm in structure. It contributes complexity to Languedoc blends, and features blackberries, blueberries, and black currant, as well as baking spices and herbal garrigue notes. Requires a long growing season.
Cinsault: Known for its supple, juicy, and fruity wines, Cinsault yields wines that tend to be light ruby in color with notes of sour red berries, like strawberries, currants, and cranberries. This grape is also used in the production of the Languedoc’s excellent rosé wines.
White Grapes
White blends can be as complex as red blends, utilizing several grapes and often using the white version of Grenache as the base grape.
Grenache Blanc: Grenache Blanc is the fourth most widely planted white grape in France, and the most widely planted white in southern France. It’s drought-resistant, vigorous, easy to graft and ripens fairly early. Like its Grenache Noir counterpoint it originated in Spain. In blends Grenache Blanc contributes rich mouthfeel, crisp acidity and a long finish.
Marsanne: The white workhorse grape of the Southern Rhône and much of Southern France. Marsanne is a sturdy, hardy grape that produces a full-bodied wine – with the heft of a good Chardonnay, but a less complex palate. It provides the base of many white blends.
Roussanne: The grape is named for its russet-colored skin and are somewhat prone to rot, but high in acidity and aromatic qualities. It’s a racy, lively wine that has the potential to age – setting it apart from the other Rhone whites. It also makes an excellent single varietal.
Viognier: is famous for the rich and exotically perfumed white wines in the Condrieu and Château-Grillet regions of northern Rhône. It was presumed to have been transported there from Dalmatia by Emperor Probus in AD 281. Not personally, of course.
Clairette: Clairette has been around since the 1500s. It is used in the production of white and Rose blends. It is even used in red Chateauneuf de Pape. Clairette, with its ability to deliver both low alcohol and high acidity is used in a blend to add acidity. Flavors include green apple, lime, peach, licorice, white peach and floral characteristics. It is also used in the production of Vermouth.
Picpoul (also known as Piquepoul) is an ancient white-wine grape variety of the Languedoc. The name Pique-poul translates literally as “stings the lip”, and is a reference to the grape’s mouthwateringly high acidity. Picpoul’s most famous incarnation is in the white wines of the Picpoul de Pinet AOC. The variety’s ability to keep its acidity even in a hot, Mediterranean climate makes it the perfect choice for the region, making taut, full-bodied white wines with herbal and citrus aromas.
Four subregions of Languedoc
Here we feature four subregions and a characteristic wine from each area that represents it.
Faugères AOP
The appellation covers the southern slopes of a range of hills just a few miles inland from the Mediterranean coast in the central Languedoc. The town of Faugères forms the center of the zone, which stretches some 7 miles from east to west. The city of Carcassonne lays a short way to the southwest.
Climate: Its position is very important to the terroir in Faugères, as the hills provide protection from cold northerly influences from the Massif Central as well as neatly orienting the vineyards toward the prevailing sun. This gives Faugères a warm, classically Mediterranean climate where even the later-ripening varieties like Mourvèdre are able to reach full maturity.
The best sites are located on the steeper slopes higher on the hill, while the vineyards on the plains that stretch toward the sea make mostly lower-quality wines that are often sold under the regional IGP title.
Soils: Faugères benefits from its geological history – the relatively unique schist soils found here are the result of an ancient seabed that was compressed by the shifting of the Alps and the Pyrenees. These soils are deep and free draining, allowing them to absorb and retain warmth to aid ripening.
For your consideration: Chateau Estanilles 2020 Vallongue White, 13% ABV, $17-20
This is a blend of 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, and 20% Vermentino (Rolle) with hand-harvested grapes, cold racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks and raised on its lees for 6 months.
Tasting: Lemon yellow robe with floral notes, white fruit. Well-balanced with gun flint minerality, notes of verbena and lime and tropical fruits.
“Beautiful white-floral notes open this white blend. With a creamy mouthfeel, the palate reveals subtle notes of green apple, grapefruit and toasted nuts. The finish is bright and crisp. Jacy Topps”, Wine Enthusiast.
AOP Limoux (2003)
Limoux is a relatively new appellation in the eastern part of the Aude département in southern France, which applies to red and white wines. The vineyards lie around Limoux in the Pyrenean foothills to the east of Corbières and south of Carcassonne.
The local vineyards are higher and cooler than those in any other Languedoc-Roussillon appellation and further from the influence of the Mediterranean Sea. This leads Limoux to produce a style of wine distinct from other appellations – even those nearby, such as Corbières. The Chardonnay vines here are some of the oldest in the south of France, producing wines that are particularly sought after.
Historically this area has been better known for its sparkling wines, which are produced and sold under the Blanquette de Limoux (1939) and Crémant de Limoux (1990) appellations.
Crémant de Limoux is an appellation for the modern-styled sparkling wines from vineyards around the town of Limoux, in the Pyrenean foothills of southern France. They are made from Mauzac, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. More emphasis is placed on the latter two more fashionable varieties.
Historically, the local wines were made predominantly, or even exclusively, from Mauzac, known here as Blanquette. This more traditional variety survives today in Blanquette de Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Ancestrale wines. The creation of the Crémant de Limoux appellation was an attempt to allow modernization in local winemaking while preserving the traditional wine styles of the area.
For your consideration: Côté Mas Crémant de Limoux Brut NV, 12% ABV
This sparkling wine is 60% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir and 10% Mauzac. Vines are planted on clay and limestone soils at 820 to 920 feet elevation. Fermentation in stainless steel vats. After fermentation a liqueur de tirage is added for secondary fermentation. One year of aging in bottle, then disgorgement and liqueur de dosage is added and aged an additional 12 months.
Winemaker: Innovation and a passion for the Languedoc are what drives Jean-Claude Mas. Since taking the helm of his family’s winery in 2000, he has prioritized sourcing the highest quality grapes to craft wines of authenticity and refinement. His range of Côté Mas crémant wines are made in the traditional method. They are produced at the Château de Martinolles estate in Limoux, the birthplace of sparkling wine production in France!
The Côté Mas restaurant is near Saint Hilaire Abbey in Limoux, where the first sparkling wines of France were produced in 1531. Don Pérignon (1638–1715) visited the abbey and perhaps learned enough about sparkling wines to deal with the problems at the Benedictine abbey in Hautvillers, Champagne.
Corbières AOP (est. 1985)
Corbières is an AOC for wine in Languedoc-Roussillon, France, and the region’s largest AOC, responsible for 46% of the region’s production in 2005. Red wine dominates with almost 95 %, with 3.5 % rosé and 2 % white. Carignan is the most common grape variety. The AOC covers 33,000 acres of vineyards and produces an average of 74 million bottles.
Due to its size and geography, Corbières encompasses an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates with11 defined terroir. The wines from the region tend to be just as varied as the terroir. The region experiences widely varied winds. The dry, Atlantic vent Cers frequently brings cold weather from the northwest but is normally under the influence of the warm, Mediterranean vent Marin.
For your consideration: Chateau Haut Gléon AOP 2022 Corbières, 12% ABV
As reflected in its chapel, Château Haut Gléon has been occupied since at least the sixth century, with its refined grandeur unfolding from the lush greenery to the valley in which it nestles, into the aromatic plumes of its wines. One can also spend a night or fortnight in the renovated chateau while sampling the wines. I like that idea!
The wine: A lovely bright rose color comes in a bottle more typical of a fine scotch, but no matter, it’s the wine we focus on and this rose is 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache Noir. One can assume more of the color comes from the Syrah.
- Settling of the must in cold conditions, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless for 4 months.
- Tasting: Intense on the nose of raspberry and black currant; powerful on the palate with strawberries and spice with a long finish.
AOP Minervois la Livinière (est. 1995)
Minervois La Livinière is a red wine appellation of the Languedoc region in southern France. La Livinière is a commune in the north of the area covered by the Minervois appellation, with a reputation for producing some of the finest red wines of the region.
After their wines were classified as AOC Minervois in 1985, the producers of La Livinière spent 10 years lobbying the INAO (France’s appellation system) for their more-specific appellation.
The Minervois La Livinière title is uniquely for the local dry red wines produced from traditional Carignan and Cinsault grapes, assisted by the classic Rhone varieties Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The latter three are improved varieties and are widely used across the region to make the traditional Carignan-based wines more complex and approachable. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre must form a minimum of 60 percent of any wine made under the La Livinière name, while Carignan and Cinsault are limited to a maximum of 40 percent.
The area’s terroir is characterized by a Mediterranean climate and classic southern-French garrigue landscape. Garrigue is the quintessential Provencal landscape of dry, limestone-based scrubland, populated by hardy herbs such as rosemary and lavender. It is this soil make-up which sets La Livinière apart from the rest of Minervois.
For your consideration: Chateau Maris 2020 Les Planels Minervois La Livinière, 15% ABV
From the website: If you take the Chemin des Planels, you will walk along vertically-stepped dry stone walls. These walls, typical of La Livinière, serve to mitigate the erosive effects of water and maintain the soil on the terraces where the “Les Planels” Syrah grapes have been grown for over 35 years. Surrounded by pine trees, the vineyard receives ample exposure to the sun and imparts to this vintage generosity and a good structure whose intensity is felt even in its aroma. This vintage fully expresses the typical La Livinière terroir.
- The must is fermented in open concrete vats and post-maceration for 4 weeks. This is a blend of Syrah and Grenache (15% max.) and is certified organic. Note this is really a Syrah-based wine.
- Tasting notes: A bouquet of thyme, rosemary and a bit of menthol leads to sautéed black cherries, cassis, liquorice, pepper and cold meats. Rich, full-bodied, yet elegant with an impressive texture.
A review of our July 2 tasting of these four wines will be presented on our July 8 show.
The Best Musicals on Film: 21st Century
This time period saw a massive number of animated musicals come out and not just Disney studios. Here we only cover the non-animated musicals or the list would be incredibly long.
Moulin Rouge (2001): Baz Luhrmann, with Nicole Kidman, Ewan McGregor, John Leguizamo
A poor Bohemian poet in 1890s Paris falls for a beautiful courtesan and nightclub star coveted by a jealous duke. Once again Nicole proves there’s nothing she can’t do as she is mesmerizing. The setting is bright, garish and teeming with life.
Chicago (2002) Dir: Rob Marshall, with Renee Zellweger, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Richard Gere
Two death-row murderesses develop a fierce rivalry while competing for publicity, celebrity, and a sleazy lawyer’s attention. Renee and Catherine are amazing and John C. Riley as Roxie’s husband was impressive.
The Phantom of the Opera (2004): Dir Joel Schumacher, with Gerald Butler, Emmy Rossum
A young soprano becomes the obsession of a disfigured and murderous musical genius who lives beneath the Paris Opéra House. There have been many versions of this classic Gaston Leroux story, but Webber’s music sets this one apart. I’ve only seen it live three times, but many more from my DVD. The music is transportive, taking us from the bright stage to the mysterious catacombs where the phantom lives.
The Producers (2005): Dir Susan Stroman, with Nathan Lane, Mathew Broderick, Uma Thurman
After putting together another Broadway flop, down-on-his-luck producer Max Bialystock teams up with timid accountant Leo Bloom in a get-rich-quick scheme to put on the world’s worst show. Having Springtime in Hitler as the lead song, surely the musical will self-destruct. Oops, no, just the opposite. The original Mel Brooks’ movie with Zero Mostel in 1961 went on stage in 2001. Leggy Uma Thurman is always a delight.
Dream Girls (2006): Dir Bill Condon, with Beyoncé, Jennifer Hudson, Jamie Foxx
A trio of black female soul singers cross over to the pop charts in the early 1960s, facing their own personal struggles along the way. This was Hudson’s breakout role and a trip back in time, well at least for me it was.
Mamma Mia! (2008) Dir: Phyllida Lloyd, with Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan, Amanda Seyfried
The story of a bride-to-be trying to find her real father told using hit songs by the popular 1970s group ABBA. Other than Brosnan’s singing this was a delight. Hasn’t the director ever heard of dubbing? This musical also spawned a sequel, Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again (2018) that was set five years later. Ignore the math but enjoy the addition of Lily James.
Les Misérables (2012) Dir: Tom Hooper, with Hugh Jackman, Russell Crowe, Anne Hathaway, Amanda Seyfried
In 19th-century France, Jean Valjean, who for decades has been hunted by the ruthless policeman Javert after breaking parole, agrees to care for a factory worker’s daughter. The decision changes their lives forever. A great cast with great music and stirring performances. Anne and Amanda will break your heart.
Jersey Boys (2014): Dir Clint Eastwood, with John Lloyd Young, Erich Bergen, Michael Lomenda
The story of four young men from the wrong side of the tracks in New Jersey who came together to form the iconic 1960s rock group The Four Seasons. This was when I was growing up in NJ so I had to include it.
La La Land (2016): Dir Damien Chazelle, with Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, Rosemarie Dewitt
While navigating their careers in Los Angeles, a pianist and an actress fall in love while attempting to reconcile their aspirations for the future. Emma Stone is always delightful in this old style to new style musical. Won 6 Oscars, but not best picture.
The Greatest Showman (2017) Dir: Michael Gracey Hugh Jackman, Michelle Williams, Zac Efron, Zendaya
Celebrates the birth of show business and tells of a visionary who rose from nothing to create a spectacle that became a worldwide sensation. The always great Hugh Jackman really sells his P.T. Barnum, a real song and dance man.
Book Review: Georgia – The Home of Wine, by Dato Turashvili
Beautifully illustrated with Cyrillic text and English translation and tells the story of Georgian winemaking going back 8,000 years. What was particularly interesting is that every family had a vineyard and made wine. It was culturally locked into their culture. After winning their independence from Russia the homeland of wine is once again encouraging the world to come back to try their wines once again.
This is a fascinating tour of an ancient culture that still reveres wine. We will be covering Georgian wines in a future Salon Saturday.
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