This week we cover a Languedoc wine tasting event I held on July 2. That will lead us into where sparkling wine was first made in France and it wasn’t in Champagne. Then we cover Crémant sparkling wines, the other French sparkler and finish up with the best summer blockbuster movies. All this on Salon Saturday.
July 2 Wine Tasting: Languedoc Wines
On July 2 I held a wine tasting of four Languedoc wines that were sent to me to judge and comment on and I had seven tasters join me to provide input. I had previously assembled an eleven foot diameter umbrella to shade the rear patio and added a Ryobi mister to moisten the air. There were no takers in the 100 degree heat so we assembled inside. Bottom line: I have seven more believers in Languedoc wines. The tasting order was:
- Côté Mas Crémant de Limoux Brut NV, 12% ABV
- Chateau Estanilles (es-TAN-e) 2020 Vallongue White, 13% ABV
- Chateau Haut Gléon AOP 2022 Corbières, 12% ABV
- Chateau Maris 2020 Les Planels Minervois La Livinière, 15% ABV
A few of the wine drinkers had never had a Crémant de Limoux, although they understood the term. I loved this wine as I have other Crémant wines from Limoux and we’ll explore these wines in another segment. The Chateau Estanilles is a white blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino, that’s well-balanced, refreshing and elegant from the Faugères subregion.
The Chateau Haut Gléon Rose was visually odd in that deep rose color of the tech sheet was nowhere in evidence in the glass. It was very pale with blue accents, but the flavors were rich strawberry and raspberry with good acidity so we all adjusted to it fine. The Chateau Maris from the La Livinière subregion of Minervois was most impressive. This is a wine with heft; a rich tannic backbone with earthy dark fruit, an expressive nose and very complex. There were lots of smiles and ahs over this one. After this tasting I was dreaming of traveling to this rich wine region in the south of France.
To learn more about these wines go here for my June 24 blog on them.
French Sparkling Wine
Since July Fourth was only a few days past and sparkling wines were popped open on that day; I wanted to cover its history. Particularly since we’d just enjoyed a Crémant de Limoux which evoked thoughts of Champagne and sparkling wine history
Sparkling wine history
Dom Pérignon is the celebrated monk who pioneered the concept of Champagne as we know it today. However he spent most of his life trying to get rid of those pesky bubbles that kept shattering his wine bottles. He did introduce blending of grapes to improve the flavor and making white wine from red grapes. He was by all accounts a superb winemaker.
Before Dom Pérignon even entered the abbey at d’Hautvillers he had spent time in the south of France and had learned about sparkling wines in Limoux. These were virtually unheard of back then and it’s possible the Dom used the knowledge to try to eliminate the bubbles in Champagne. Since sweet wines were the norm, the amount of residual sugar and the presence of airborne yeasts could induce a secondary fermentation in any bottle; not that anyone at the time knew the true cause. The cleanliness levels of a modern winery were not a concern of early winemakers.
In Limoux the amount of residual sugar might have been less insuring a lower level of carbon dioxide that did not burst the bottles, or they might have been thicker or stronger bottles. However, when some of the Champagne still wine was sent to England in wooden barrels and bottled there the second fermentation in the bottles did not burst them because they used coal-fired kilns that considerably strengthen the bottles.
The English also re-introduced the cork stopper, and in 1662, the English scientist Christopher Merret, in a paper theorized that the presence of sugar in the wine could cause the carbonation.
I’m sure when they first attempted to open a bottle we might have had our first eye causality from a flying cork. But when they tasted the wine they probably realized; “hey we’re onto something here.” And thus the English claim that they invented champagne, which while not technically true would surely have goaded the French.
Over time new innovations improved the Champagne method. Madame Clicquot came up with the idea of riddling, which was a way to remove the spent yeast cells and sediment. Prior to that time, wine would have been cloudy, although it still would have tasted fine. In Louis XV day the bubbly was slammed like a tequila shot and the coupé overturned to drain the sediment. The champagne flute did not appear until the 1950s.
Sparkling wine grapes
The classic grapes in the Champagne region are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. However many different grapes can be employed to make a sparkling wine. Pinot Noir is often the red grape of choice for Rose and Pinot Meunier much less frequently outside of Champagne. On the other hand many white wine grapes have been employed for sparkling wines. Generally the best white wine grape in a region is the one selected.
Types of Sparkling Wines
Regardless of the wine grapes use, there are two ways of making a sparkling wine; the champagne method or the Charmat bulk process. In the Charmat process the secondary fermentation is done in a large pressured tank, not in the bottle, which considerably shortens production and is less costly. The bubbles are not as fine, frog’s eyes, the French would call it.
Mouthfeel
The other reason the traditional method is preferred is in the mouthfeel. The mousse, as it’s called, is generated by the small, intense bubbles that surge up from the glass base. The nucleation site within the glass will also alter the bubble activity. Non-Vintage (NV) is the most traditional of all sparkling styles, which is a blend of multiple varieties and vintages of wine. The goal is to blend a consistent wine every year. Minimum aging is 1.5 years in Champagne. Holding the bottle for up to a year before consuming generally improves the flavor.
Details of Champagne Method
While fizz in a wine can be by accident, the champagne method was a way to deliberately induce a second fermentation even though it took a while to perfect.
- The liqueur di tirage is a mix of yeast, wine and sugar added to induce a second fermentation.
- The riddling process gradually tilts the bottle until it is inverted and the sediment has moved into the bottle’s neck. It was developed by Madame Clicquot.
- The disgorgement removes the sediment by freezing the bottle neck before extracting the plug
- Finally a dosage or liqueur d’expedition of wine and sugar is added to top off the wine.
Crémant: the Other French Sparkler
Near the end of the 1980s a new term, crémant, was defined to identify French sparkling wine from other regions. Production rules require hand harvesting, gentle pressing, bottle fermentation and a minimum of nine months aging on lees, but differ according to the predominant grape varieties of the respective regions. For example; in Alsace, sparklers are made from Pinot Blanc and Riesling; in Burgundy, obviously Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also Aligoté.
The wine regions that want to use the term ‘Crémant’ have to get clearance from INAO, France’s national appellation body. There are currently eight Crémant regions.
Limoux, high in the foothills of the Pyrenean Mountains, is where sparkling wine originated and was documented. There are three sparkling wine classifications, making Limoux rather unique. The most popular Crémant regions are listed below. This wine map from Wine Folly also has an excellent article on Crémant wines.
- Crémant de Bordeaux: Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cab Franc
- Crémant de Bourgogne; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté
- Crémant d’Alsace: Primarily made from Pinot Blanc, but Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are allowed. Rose must be 100% Pinot Noir
- Crémant de Loire: Primarily Chenin Blanc, but also Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc
- Crémant de Limoux is covered below
Languedoc-Roussillon and Crémant de Limoux
As we mentioned previously, the first sparkling wines of France were made in Limoux, which still makes an ancient version of this wine as well as the more modern version called Crémant de Limoux. In 1531, the monks of Saint Hilaire discovered the first wine with bubbles. The monks documented their findings and later Dom Pérignon might have read about the phenomenon. The winery that produced the crémant we enjoyed at our July 2nd tasting is located next to the Abbey of Saint Hilaire, which was another reason I wanted to cover the history.
Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this subregion of Languedoc possess the cooler temperatures needed to permit a good growing season for the classic grapes of Limoux. The white grapes are Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and a local favorite, Mauzac, a rustic grape with unique apple-peel flavors.
AOC classifications
- Blanquette de Limoux: Permits three grape varieties: Mauzac (a minimum of 90% of the wine), Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc. The grape varieties are vinified separately prior to assemblage and bottled. Just before bottling, a tirage is added to the blend so that a second fermentation will take place in the bottle. After nine months, the bottles are opened and disgorged before a final corking.
- Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale: Defines a sweetish sparkling wine made in the old-fashioned way, without disgorgement. It is produced in the same area as Blanquette de Limoux, but may only contain Mauzac.
- Crémant de Limoux: Crémant de Limoux contains 40-70% Chardonnay, 20-40% Chenin blanc, 0-20% Mauzac and 0-10% Pinot noir. AOC regulations dictate that the wine be aged for a least a year on the lees prior to disgorgement.
The Summer Blockbuster
This is one film term everyone knows. Remember the long lines trying to get in – why did everyone else decide to come at the same time we mutter? Sitting at home with a big screen TV is not the same thing, although as I get older I’m less sanguine about the press of bodies. Ditto the know-it-all who blabs inane comments or tortures us with a running monolog.
We have enjoyed the experience when we’ve invited friends over for a movie night with good wine and good food. Something you won’t get in most movie houses. We’ve formed different groups over the years to get the theatre experience, but with far more comfort.
Anyway, here are my favorite blockbusters through the mid-90s from a list of 50 on Syfy.com. I liked that they listed them chronologically as I do rather the rating them best to least. I did not include sequels, good as they were, but the original movie that set the trend.
Jaws (1975): Dir Steven Spielberg, with Roy Scheider, Richard Dreyfuss, Robert Shaw
Jaws is the definition of summer blockbuster, although with all the problems with the shark, Spielberg wondered if they’d even finish it. Keeping the shark on-screen briefly and using John Williams pounding score to fuel our suspense did the trick along with three good actors to fill the leads. Shaw’s narration of the USS Indianapolis’ fate in shark-infested waters sets us up for the final confrontation and it’s a dozy. I must have seen this a dozen times, which is another definition of blockbuster; repeat viewings.
I once brought my girl friend Kim to Martha’s Vineyard so we could camp out and I could do a little body surfing with my brother Dan. That was until Kim said, “Isn’t this where they filmed Jaws?” Dan and I looked at each other, sighed and got out of the surf. Such is the power of movies.
Star Wars: Episode IV — A New Hope (1977): Dir George Lucas, with Harrison Ford, Mark Hamill, Carrie Fisher
George Lucas is the other blockbuster king and even though it’s now listed as number IV, we know it’s the first of many Star Wars movies to wear the blockbuster title. Luke Skywalker joins forces with a Jedi Knight, a cocky pilot, a Wookiee and two droids to save the galaxy from the Empire’s world-destroying battle station, while also attempting to rescue Princess Leia from the mysterious Darth Vader.
Once these elements were in place, Star Wars was unstoppable. The added franchise of action figures and video games showed just how much money could be made off a blockbuster. I lost count of how many quarters I dropped on the Star Wars game in a video arcade in Manasquan, NJ; my home town.
Alien (1979): Dir Ridley Scott, with Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt
In space no one can hear you scream, but boy in theatres the audience sure did. Chest buster surprise anyone? This guy was no friendly ET, but he did spew a number of sequels and eventually battled other monsters. It seems like every lad had an alien puppet that they used to terrorize their little brother. I just hope H. R. Giger got kickbacks for his creation. The chest buster scene was shot without any of the other actors, other than John Hurt, knowing what was going to happen. The shocked looks on their faces are real.
Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981): Dir Steven Spielberg, with Harrison Ford, Karen Allen
In 1936, archaeologist and adventurer Indiana Jones is hired by the U.S. government to find the Ark of the Covenant before the Nazis can obtain its awesome powers. The other thing Indy hated besides snakes was Nazis. We get a plate full of both along with an almost childlike adventure that has spanned decades. Ford made the most of these movies intermixing derring-do with comedic asides. Can you imagine anyone else in this role?
Ghostbusters (1984): Dir Ivan Reitman with Bill Murray, Dan Aykroyd, Sigourney Weaver
Three parapsychologists forced out of their university funding set up shop as a unique ghost removal service in New York City, attracting frightened yet skeptical customers. Who you gonna call, became the watchword. Stars Aykroyd, Harold Ramis and Rick Moranis also were the writers of this over-the-top Sci-Fi/Horror/comedy. The 2016 reboot with all females taking over the roles is very good because the actresses fill out the roles admirably, but the 2021 version helmed by Reitman’s son Jason is strictly from hunger.
Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (1986): John Hughes, with Mathew Broderick, Mia Sara, Jeffrey Jones
A popular high school student, admired by his peers, decides to take a day off from school, and goes to extreme lengths to it pull off, to the chagrin of his principal (Jones), in a great role, who’ll do anything to stop him. This cemented Broderick reputation as a dependable go-to actor. Great Chicago locations are another highlight, but if you’re trying to turn back the odometer on your dad’s sports car, do not take Ferris’ advice.
Top Gun (1986): Dir Tony Scott, with Tom Cruise, Tim Robbins, Kelly McGillis
As students at the United States Navy’s elite fighter weapons school compete to be best in the class, one daring young pilot learns a few things from a civilian instructor that are not taught in the classroom, and it took his breath away. This was a heck of a story back then, which got new legs with Top Gun: Maverick (2022) with Cruise still jumping into the cockpit. Imagine, a sequel nominated for best picture; this one has staying power.
Ghost (1990): Dir Jerry Zucker, with Demi Moore, Patrick Swazye, Whoopi Goldberg
After a young man is murdered, his spirit stays behind to warn his lover of impending danger, with the help of a reluctant psychic. Who knew making a clay vessel would be so erotic? Weaving romance, fantasy and comedy into this movie entranced just about everybody and made Carl Bruner (Tony Goldwyn) the most hated man in America.
Total Recall (1990): Dir Paul Verhoeven, with Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sharon Stone, M. Ironside
When a man goes in to have virtual vacation memories of the planet Mars implanted in his mind, an unexpected and harrowing series of events forces him to go to the planet for real – or is he? It wasn’t only Arnold’s mind that was warped as we all questioned what was going on. The red planet never looked so red and Stone seldom looked meaner as the fake wife.
Jurassic Park (1993): Dir Steven Spielberg, with Sam Neil, Jeff Goldblum, Laura Dern
A pragmatic paleontologist touring an almost complete theme park on an island in Central America is tasked with protecting a couple of kids after a power failure causes the park’s cloned dinosaurs to run amok. I’d already read the great Michael Crichton’s book, but even I was impressed with what Spielberg did with the story, which Crichton also co-wrote. I loved Goldblum’s turn as a chaos theory specialist and boy was there chaos. Having the lawyer become the T-Rex’s first snack was also a fun moment.
Independence Day (1996): Roland Emmerich, with Jeff Goldblum, Will Smith, Bill Pullman
The aliens are coming and their goal is to invade and destroy Earth. Fighting superior technology, mankind’s best weapon is the will to survive. Once the mother ship’s shadow covers the moon we know we’re in for it as these space locusts destroy everything in their path. And they look pretty nasty, too. In this one Goldblum is on a mission to save earth, one recycled soda pop can at a time.
Men in Black (1997): Dir Barry Sonnenfeld, with Will Smith, Tommy Lee Jones, Linda Fiorentino
A police officer joins a secret organization that polices and monitors extraterrestrial interactions on Earth. From that basic premise a riotous, over-the-top Sci-Fi comedy was born and nothing could be too outrageous with shape shifting aliens all over the place. Tommy Lee does the best deadpan delivery of things that should scare the crap out of folks and perfectly counters Smith’s WTF reactions. Their relationship is part of what makes this movie and the sequels work.
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