This radio show aired on March 2 and followed my coverage of the Maconnais subregion of Burgundy. This show covered its neighbor to the north; Cote Chalonnaise. This subarea produces white, red and sparkling wines, unlike the Macon, which focused on Chardonnay.
The Cote Chalonnaise
The Cote Chalonnaise is just below the Cote d’Or or golden slopes. As the name suggests the more gold you have the more of these wines you can afford. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines are the best in the world and legendary, but the sticker shock can be daunting, even for wine lovers like me. However, my first wine was a red Burgundy premier Cru from this region, which is why I’m a wine lover and sommelier now.
The Cote Chalonnaise does offer great wines, be they Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Aligote; the other white wine grape. There’s even a bit of Gamay here, the primary Beaujolais grape. This is also where most of the sparkling wine originates, mostly Crémant, a standard for great sparklers that do not come from Champagne. While there are no Grand Cru vineyards there are over 119 premier cru vineyards within the Cote Chalonnaise, which makes it a true extension of the Cote d’Or in terroir and geographical proximity.
The vineyards of Cote Chalonnaise are spread over a stretch of 40 km long and 5 to 8 km wide, over undulating land in which vineyards are interspersed with orchards and other forms of farming. The 1318 acres under vine is less than the Maconnais, which reinforces the fact this is a farming community. Reds and rosés: 908 acres Whites: 410 acres.
Acreage under vine: 2018 (5 years avg. 2014-2018) (The map below is a truncation of a larger Wine Folly map. Check out Winefolly.com for further details.)
Appellation Régionale Côte Chalonnaise (Saône-et-Loire)
The words Côte Chalonnaise may only be added to the word Bourgogne in the case of red, rosé or white wines produced within the boundaries of the 44 communes which comprise the cantons of Buxy, Chagny, Givry, and Mont-Saint-Vincent.
The appellation Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise dates from 1990 and recognizes the distinct personality of wines from the 44 communes in the northern part of the department of Saône-et-Loire, an area some 40 km long and between 5 and 8 km in width. These wines have been justly valued since the time of the Bishop Gregory of Tours (6th century AD) in and around the bustling port of Chalon-sur-Saône, an important market centre on an affluent of the Rhône River.
Tasting Notes (www.Bourgogne-wines.com)
Red (Pinot Noir): this wine has a clean, straightforward purple or bright ruby color, sometimes tending towards dark garnet-red. Strawberry, gooseberry and black currant and blueberry fruit aromas come well to the fore, with occasional hints of cherry and kernel, and sometimes animal and mushroom notes. It is mouth-filling, firm in texture, and can be a touch austere in early youth. It has no lack of oomph, however, and its roundness overcomes any jagged edges – its acidity and tannins work well together. A tiny amount of rosé/clairet is produced, also from the Pinot Noir grape. That’s the first time I encountered oomph in a French tasting note.)
White (Chardonnay): it boasts a clear complexion with grey-gold highlights. Its aromas are redolent of white flowers (hawthorn, honeysuckle), dried fruits over notes of lemon and sometimes anise, with a suggestion of warm croissants and honey. In the mouth it is fleshy and well turned-out. It has a lively, no-nonsense attack.
Côte Chalonnaise Village Appellation
As in the Macon region, the Chalonnaise defines village appellations at a higher quality level. Within the defined villages are a number of premier cru vineyards. The village appellation is part of a wine’s label and if all the grapes from a village are premier cru; that is added to the village name. Each village identifier, of course, encompasses more than one physical village and is sometimes called a commune.
Bouzeron Village Appellation (Est. 1998)
Bouzeron is the most northerly village appellation, just below Santenay in the Cote de Beaune. It is the only village that produces wines from Aligoté. The Aligoté grape was a cross of Pinot Noir and Gouais, a grape that no longer exists. The Aligoté grown in Bouzeron is said to be golden: when the grapes ripen in the sun, their skins, which are less thick than the traditional Aligoté grown elsewhere in Bourgogne, take on a golden hue and this allows a better alcohol/acidity balance during ripening.
- Producing communes: Bouzeron, Chassey-le-Camp 138 acres
Rully Village Appellation (Est. 1939)
This appellation includes 23 Premiers Crus Climats (named plots). Producing communes are Rully and Chagny. On the label, the names Rully and Rully Premier Cru may be followed by the name of the Climat of origin. The commune is just below Bouzeron and extends east.
Tasting notes: The Chardonnay is gold flecked with green, and the gold deepens with age. It is redolent with superb aromas of acacia, hay, honeysuckle, and a very delicate elderflower as well as violet, lemon, white peach or flint. Time brings out honey, quince, and dried fruits. Indeed, this wine is full of fruit, which on the palate is lively and well-rounded, meaty and long. It has both the coolness and the polish of marble. (Fortunately, not the hardness.)
- Whites: 609 acres including 170 acres Premier Cru.
- Reds: 300 acres including 69 acres Premier Cru.
Mercurey Village Appellation (Est. 1936)
Mercurey is an Appellation Village of the Côte Chalonnaise region that includes 32 Premiers Crus Climats. The producing communes are Mercurey and Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu. On the label, the appellation Mercurey and Mercurey Premier Cru may be followed by the name of the Climat of origin.
Tasting notes: These Pinot Noir wines visually present a deep, profound ruby color. This crisp-fruited wine evokes strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. Age brings in notes of underbrush, spicy tobacco notes and cocoa beans. In the mouth this wine is rich, full-bodied, and chewy. In its youth, the tannins of this wine lend it a mineral firmness. When aged, it is attractively rounded and meaty.
- Reds: 1342 acres, including 366 acres Premier Cru.
- Whites: 261 acres, including 44 acres Premier Cru.
Givry Village Appellation (Est. 1946)
Givry Appellation Village of the Côte Chalonnaise region is located in the center of the Chalonnaise and includes 38 Premiers Crus Climats. The producing communes are Givry, Dracy-le-Fort, and Jambles. The appellation Givry and Premier Cru may be followed on the label by the name of their Climat of origin.
Tasting notes: Givry is primarily a red wine made from Pinot Noir grapes. Visually it presents a brilliant carmine or crimson color set off by purplish highlights. Its bouquet evokes violets, strawberries, and blackberries with variants which include liquorices, game, and sometimes cloves. It is quite tannic in its early youth but after 3 to 5 years in the bottle it becomes more supple and fuller. It boasts a firm structure.
- Reds: 613 acres including 315 acres Premier Cru.
- Whites: 137 acres including 46 acres Premier Cru.
Montagny Village Appellation (Est. 1946)
This village appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise produces only white Chardonnay and includes 49 Premier Cru Climats. The producing communes are Montagny (Moan-ten-E), Buxy, Saint-Vallerin, and Jully-lès-Buxy (Julie lay Bixy). On the label, the appellation Montagny and Montagny Premier Cru may be followed by the name of the Climat of origin.
Tasting notes: Visually, these wines present the classic features of a Burgundian Chardonnay: limpid, pale gold color with green highlights when young, darker gold color with age. The aromas are acacia, mayflower, honeysuckle, bramble flowers, and sometimes violet and bracken. Of the livelier scents, lemon-balm and gun-flint may be added.
Hazelnut, white peach and ripe pear are also present. In the mouth, the wine is always fresh, young at heart, frisky, alluring, and rich in spicy back-flavors. Refinement and delicacy are harmoniously matched to a well-built structure.
- The appellation contains 869 acres including 521 acres Premier Cru.
Cote Chalonnaise Wines
All the wines below can be found at Total Wine. The prices were rounded up. I selected one characteristic wine from each village, interpreting the label and tasting notes.
Domaine St Germain Aligote, 12.5% ABV, $19
Aligote is Burgundy’s other white grape type, and it represents an excellent value. Spicy and flavorful, with apple and pear fruit, accented by citrus and pepper and shades of vanilla.
Famille Masse Rully Blanc 1er Les Deux Terres, 2020, 13% ABV, $45
Here you’ll note the 1er, which represents premier cru status. Les Deux Terres is the climat from which the grapes are sourced.
“Bright and refined nose with a mineral whiff to the lime zest, fresh pineapple and green apples. Tangy and bright with a stony edge to the green fruit on the medium- to full-bodied palate. A subtle saline hit to the finish.” James Suckling 93 points.
Domaine Tupinier Bautista Mercurey En Sazenay Premier Cru Rouge, 2019, 13% ABV, $60
“Aromas of cassis, preserved plums, orange rind and rose petals preface this Premier Cru En Sazenay (Sad-en-A) climat, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely concentrated wine with fine concentration, powdery tannins and a long, succulent finish.” Wine Advocate 92 points
Vincent Lumpp Givry Clos du Cras Long Premier Cru, 13% ABV, $47
This Givry Premier Cru Pinot Noir is from the Clos du Cras Long climat. Although general tasting notes suggest 3-5 years ageing, the notes below suggest otherwise.
“This wine is rich and full of ripe red fruits. Its tannins provide structure but are balanced by the generous fruitiness, offering. A wine made for immediate enjoyment with the potential to develop over many years.”
AP Mont Chauve Montagny 1er Cru, 13.5% ABV, $30
This (Moan-ten-E) Premier Cru sources its Chardonnay grapes from Au Pied Du Mont Chauve and represents a very good value for a premier cru and it’s a fave of mine.
“An expressive bouquet of mango and pear with floral notes of acacia and hawthorne. A mineral driven and lively wine, with accents of a racy acidity that makes you salivate for more.”
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