Dreams of Golden Slopes: Burgundy’s Cote d’Or
While great wines come from Chablis, Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais in Burgundy, it’s the Côte d’Or region where the greatest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines are found. The red and white Burgundy wines from the Cote d’Or have been famous throughout history, and wines like Romanée-Conti are legendary.
The Burgundy wine region is quite broad in latitude; extending from Chablis wine region in the north to Beaujolais in the south, but our focus is finally the Cote d’Or where wines have been prized for centuries. Since this is a complex subject we’re only covering red Burgundy wines this week.
Côte d’Or means golden slopes which defines the topography where the best wines are made, but the name is actually a shortening of Côte d’Orient or ‘eastern slope’. It is comprised of two regions that are both known for their iconic whites and reds.
- Côte de Nuits is the northernmost part of the Côte D’or with primary emphasis on Pinot Noir.
- Côte de Beaune is the southern part of the Côte D’or with focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Wine Future Shock
In 1964 I had my first bottle of wine; a red Burgundy from the Charmes Chambertin subregion. I paid about $4.00 in a high-end French restaurant in Hong Kong. It was most likely a grand cru. Shopping for a recent wine from this climat I found this.
Edouard Delaunay Charmes Chambertin Grand Crus 2019, 270 euros
Tasting notes Gorgeous deep red in color. Superb, warm, complex nose redolent of raspberry, blackberry, ripe plum and medlar. Magnificent start to the palate, which is simultaneously deep, velvety and fresh. Flavours of jam, kirsch and mild spices are underscored by a touch of vanilla and liquorices.
If anyone ever tells you inflation is not a problem, show them this.
Burgundy History: The Prince of Conti
The Burgundy region has a colorful history and it’s not just in wine as the prince of Conti’s story can attest. As a cousin to the king he used his relationship to influence Louis’s low regard for his Protestant subjects in what was primarily a Catholic country. While not of the religion himself, the prince understood the problems of a growing and more powerful protestant enclave to the king’s rule.
Unfortunately that placed him directly in the path of the king’s mistress; Marquise de Pompadour’, known to history as Madame Pompadour. Her importance and influence of the king was much more than her duties as a mistress and she apparently loved intrigues. In January of 1757, when an attempt was made on the life of the king she suspected Conti of being involved. While he was not formerly accused of being part of a conspiracy, his influence at court eventually came to an end and he retired to Burgundy.
There in 1760 he purchased the vineyards of La Romanée, formerly known as Clos de Cloux. By 1733, the wine of La Romanée was fetching five to six times the price of its nearest rival (Montrachet excluded). However, notwithstanding their success in the sale of their wines, the Belgium Croonembergs had grown too much debt, and were obliged to sell. However, the prince kept his name out of the purchase, knowing Madame Pompadour, who loved these wines, would try to block the sale.
Once the vineyard was his, the prince decided not to market the wine, meaning Madame Pompadour would have to come to him, begging, to receive any wine. When the prince died in 1776, his son became the new Prince of Conti, but this was also the dawn of the French Revolution followed by the storming of the Bastille in 1789. At which point the prince feared for his safety.
In 1793 he was arrested, and incarcerated in prison in Marseilles. Later that year, signs were posted at the vineyard that the property was for sale. In September 1793, while the Prince was still in prison, he was declared to have emigrated, and all his property to be liable to confiscation. It was in this context, that one of the councils dealing with the sequestration decided to add the name ‘Conti’ to La Romanée, and soon after the Domaine became known by its present title of ‘Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’.
The following year this notice appeared: “We cannot disguise the fact that the wine of La Romanée is the most excellent of all those of the Cote d’Or, and even all the vineyards of the French Republic; weather permitting, this wine always distinguishes itself from those of the other Climats of predilection, its brilliant and velvety color, its ardor and its scent, charm all the senses. Well kept, it always improves as it approaches its eighth or tenth year; it is then a balm for the elderly, the feeble and the disabled, and will restore life to the dying”
And thus a legend was borne.
Quality classifications
Burgundy, like Bordeaux defines premier and grand cru designations, but does not define first, second, third-growth terroir. Burgundy also flips the terms, defining grand cru as the greatest growth region where Bordeaux uses the term premier.
It is important to understand that with few exceptions, it is the vineyard or climat that is rated grand or premier cru, not the winery or chateau. If the resulting wine is made 100% of grand cru it is a grand cru wine. If partially grand and premier cru it is a premier cru wine.
- Grand Cru (great growth) designates Burgundy’s top vineyard plots or climats of which there are 33 in the Côte D’or, of which 60% are Pinot Noir-based wines.
- Premier Cru wines from Burgundy number 640. Many will list the village name and Premier Cru or 1er and optionally the climat.
- Villages identify quality wines with the commune or village listed on the wine. There are 44 village wines including Chablis, Pommard and Pouilly-Fuisse.
Cote de Nuits: Jancis Robinson
The Cote de Nuits is named after the town of Nuits-St. George. The wines on the lower slopes with more clay drain less well and tend to produce less exciting wine. The regional appellation of Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits produces marginally superior reds from the higher slopes above the escarpment of the Côte de Nuits. Below is Jancis Robinson’s take on this region.
“A notch above these are the communal wines labeled Côtes de Nuits-Villages (which are usually red, produced in the smaller villages of Fixin, Brochon, Prémeaux, Comblanchien, and Corgoloin) and the more prestigious village wines, carrying as their appellation the name of the village in which they were made, such as Morey-St-Denis or Gevrey-Chambertin. They can provide some of Burgundy’s most delicious drinking for the first three or four years after the harvest (especially in softer vintages) but should not be kept for much longer than this. The principal villages of the Côte de Nuits, from north to south, are Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny (Cham-boll muse-in-e), Vougeot (Voo-jo), Vosne (Vone)-Romanée, Flagey-Échézeaux (Fla-jay E-she-voo), and Nuits-St-Georges.”
Thus any wine from one of these named villages can command higher prices with assured good quality. (And now you can pronounce them should you request one from your local wine shop.) We’ll cover some of these wines later.
Côte de Beaune and Hautes-Côte de Beaune
The entire Côte de Beaune region is split into two parallel areas with the Hautes Côte de Beaune to the west at a higher elevation, thus the French Hautes for “high” to differentiate the two. All the chateaux here grow their grapes and make and bottle the wine on their premises to insure the best quality. In the Cote de Beaune there are 11 Grand Cru vineyards or climats.
The city of Beaune lies near the heart of this region. The village of Meursault is 5 miles south, and Montrachet is right below it. These communes identify the most sought-after white Burgundies.
There are many significant communes within the Côte de Beaune, including many grand cru and premier cru climats. In the northern portion there are 6 Grand Cru climats.
- Pernand-Vergelesses (Pernan ver-ja-lay-sah) in the northwest corner produces about 30,000 cases, 75% red. For a better perspective on output, Gruet produced over 200,000 cases in 2017.
- Grand Cru Charlemagne and Grand Cru Corton
- Grand Cru Corton in Ladoix-Serrigny
- Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne in Ladoix-Serrigny
- Grand Cru Corton in Aloxe-Corton (Alose-Cor-Ton)
- Grand Cru Charlemagne in Aloxe-Corton
There’s no way anyone would get those six confused, is there?
The Wines of Edouard Delaunay
One of the most highly-rated winemakers covered by Total Wine is Edouard Delaunay, and many of his wines are available there. He was named winemaker of the year three times. Many of the wines are located in the Cote d’Or, so his wines are a good place to explore. Just in the Cote de Nuits, grapes are sourced from Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Marsannay, and Nuits-St-Georges.
In the Cote de Beaune these include Pommard, Corton, Volnay, Chassagne-Montrachet, Poligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Santenay.
Edouard Delaunay Pommard Premier Cru Les Chaponnieres, 2020, 14% ABV, $120
As the label indicates the premier cru vineyard is Les Chaponnieres. Pommard (Poe-Marr) makes some of the most tannic and full-bodied wines from the Cote d’Or and popular because of name recognition. Note the higher alcohol level than most red Burgundy.
“This is ripe and plush with sweet pure red cherry and blackberry fruit. Polished with lovely texture and purity, supported by well integrated oak…” 96 points Int’l Wine Challenge
Edouard Delaunay Nuits St Georges Premier Cru Les Perrieres, 2019, 14% ABV, $125
I still remember when I could order a bottle of Nuits St-Georges at a restaurant for under ten bills. I hope the sticker shock hasn’t completely discouraged you.
“A complex, potent aroma of ripe cassis, violets, anise, and licorice, with some earthy notes. The structure of the wine is simultaneously firmly tannic and approachable at the same time, with some nicely integrated spicy oak. A very powerful wine.” 95 points, Decanter
Edouard Delaunay Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, 2019, 13.5% ABV, $330
As one would expect, a grand cru from the prestigious Clos Vougeot climat was going to be pricey, and they’re even suggesting you lay it down for a while! I’m sorry, but if I’m shelling out this much money it darn well better be ready for me.
“Matured 14 months in mostly new oak, it’s piquant with spice, tobacco leaf and smoky hazelnut tones now, but maintains a bristling acidic edge that should help it evolve gracefully.” 95 points Wine Enthusiast
Domaine des Riottes Aloxe Corton Premier Cru Les Valozieres, 2020, 14% ABV, $80
At least this premier cru won’t cripple you bank account, unless you’re getting a case. Two of the 6 Grand Cru vineyards of northern Cote de Beaune are in Aloxe-Corton.
“A luxurious blend of spiced plum and ripe black cherry; silky and voluptuous with a fine seam of melting acidity and a long, lavish finish.” 95 points Decanter
Cote d’Or Red Burgundy on a budget
If one has somewhat lower expectations of quality and a more modest budget, which wines should we seek out, if the Cote d’Or is the playing field?
Javillier Pernand Vergelesses, 2018, 13% ABV, $60
This wine is from the famed commune that features 6 Grand cru climats. See above if you’ve already forgotten. Yeah, it happens.
“A ripe but exceptionally fresh nose combines an array of floral nuances with those of violet, earth and plum. There is equally good energy to the delicious and caressing flavors that offer fine depth and persistence…” 90 points Burghound
Domaine Derey Marsannay, 13% ABV, $40
Marsannay is located at the top of the Cote de Nuits region just below Dijon.
“This rich, deeply colored Pinot Noir from the northern reaches of Burgundy is filled with aromas of violets and black cherries. The elegant tannins and supple fruit notes balance each other through a lingering finish accented by notes of plum and cherry.”
Domaine Julie Belland 2014 Santenay Charmes Rouge, 13% ABV, $45
Santenay is the last village in Cote de Beaune before entering the Cote Chalonnaise. I brought this wine to a wine luncheon with 12 of us sampling wines from the Pinot Noir grape. This 2014 wine received many thumbs up from our crowd. It’s perfectly aged and ready to drink. I’d rate it 92 points.
Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune
As the name indicates these are vineyards above the main Cote d’Or escarpment. The vines of Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune grow on the south- and southeast-facing slopes of valleys cut into the limestone plateaus at between 290-485m above sea level, between 100-200m higher than the Côte de Beaune, which results in slightly later maturing and harvesting on average around one week later. The soil is made up of formations laid down 80 million years ago during the Triassic (sandstone and clay) and the Jurassic (marl and limestone) periods.
The Hautes-Côte de Beaune refers to an appellation of 48 villages located at 300 to 400 meters, while the rest of the Côte is at 250 to 350 meters. There are 1640 acres of red grapes of the 1983 acres total or almost 83%.
Ropiteau Hautes Cotes de Beaune, 2021, 13% ABV, $33
This is a wine we featured on a show a few years back. It’s a bit more now but still a good value for a Cote de Beaune wine. This red Burgundy comes from a Meursault-based winery so much of their passion is for making great white Burgundy wines, both Montrachet and Meursault. They select many of their grapes from premier cru vineyards and some grand cru. However, that same passion fuels the red Burgundy wines they make as is the case with this wine.
“Attractive sweet bramble and cherry fruit and spice with a fresh, focused texture, firm tannins and a long, pure finish.” 91 points Decanter
Maison Ropiteau Frères red wine is 100% Pinot Noir fermented in stainless steel tanks and 8 months barrel aging in French oak, primarily from the Allier forests.
That’s your red Burgundy wines. So what’s in your wallet?
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