The White Wines of Cote d’Or
The radio show aired on April 13, 2024. The previous show we explored the Cote d’Or with a focus on its Pinot Noir-based wines. This week we return to cover the Chardonnay-based wines. The Burgundy wine region is quite broad in latitude; extending from Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south, but our focus is the white Burgundies of the Côte d’Or. Nonetheless, understanding the wines of Burgundy is understanding the terroir and the legacy countless generations of Burgundian winemakers have invested in the land.
“We do not inherit the land from our ancestors, but we borrow it from our children.” St Exupery *
Winegrower Frédéric-Marc Burrier mentioned this quote when talking about his own land in Beauregard. He said his favorite climat (plot of land) is one his great-grandfather, his grandfather and his father had worked before him. He spoke passionately about the land, and his climats that have been in the family for generations.
(This video came from the Bourgogne-wines.com website, which includes an E-learning section dedicated to wine professionals that wish to know more about this fascinating wine region.)
* Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, was a French writer, poet, journalist and aviator. His most famous work was The Little Prince (1943).
When a Burgundy winemaker speaks about terroir is not just the chalky, clay soil and the weather, it is the faults that have created a diversity of orientations from East, North-East, South-East and West. It’s the changes the land has undergone through centuries, it is the knowledge passed down and enhanced by each generation from the Cistercian monks onward.
So each climat in Burgundy is considered a precise plot of land that expresses the grapes in a particular way, whether rich and earthy or elegant and feminine; each climat is unique. A village consists of several climats and each village is often more than one village and sometimes called a commune. Finally there are the different subregions themselves.
Côte d’Or was interpreted to mean golden slopes, but in fact it was a shortening of Cote d’Orient which means eastern slopes. Nonetheless, gold is what you’ll need to purchase this region’s top white and red Burgundy wines. Some of this was reviewed last week.
- Côte de Nuits is the northernmost part of the Côte D’or which is over 90% Pinot Noir, but known for both grapes.
- Côte de Beaune is the southern part of the Côte D’or with a focus on Chardonnay, but Pinot Noir is still significant here with several Grand Cru wines as well as Chardonnay.
- Reds: 878 acres (including 668 acres Premier Cru).
Whites: 144 acres (including 98 acres Premier Cru).
- Reds: 878 acres (including 668 acres Premier Cru).
Quality classifications
Burgundy, like Bordeaux defines premier and grand cru designations, but does not define first, second, third-growth terroir. It is important to understand that with few exceptions, it is the vineyard or climat that is rated grand or premier cru, not the winery or chateau. If the resulting wine is made 100% of grand cru it is a grand cru wine. If partially grand and premier cru it is a premier cru wine.
- Grand Cru (great growth) designates Burgundy’s top vineyard plots or climats of which there are 33 in the Côte d’Or, of which 60% are Pinot Noir-based wines.
- Premier Cru wines from Burgundy number 640. Many will list the village name and Premier Cru or 1er and optionally the climat.
- Villages identify quality wines with the commune or village listed on the wine. There are 44 village wines including Marsannay, Pommard and Volnay.
Splitting the Difference
Both the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune have higher western slopes that also make good wines, but are prefaced with a “Hautes” to indicate a higher, slightly less desirable area.
This geological cross section also illustrates the different classifications of quality; linked to the suitability of the terroir based on soil quality, drainage and orientation. This illustration is part of the Bourgogne-wines.com E-learning portion of the website. Note the wood and scrub portion. The Saône plain is part of the Saône River to the east of the slopes. Consider, there are 84 appellations in Burgundy to define climats, making it the most defined geographical wine region.
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Appellation Régionale of the Hautes Côtes region (Côte-d’Or). Officially recognized since 1961, this appellation covers 16 communes of the Hautes Côtes region in the département of Côte-d’Or, plus the more elevated areas of 4 communes in the Côte de Nuits. The dividing line between the Hautes Côtes de Nuits and the Hautes Côtes de Beaune runs through the village of Magny-Iès-Villers.
The whites (Chardonnay, or very rarely Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris) are white-gold to pale gold in color, or, if aged in barrel, yellow gold. Notes of hawthorn and honeysuckle mingle with apple, lemon, white deadnettle and hazelnut. In the mouth, they are fleshy, solidly built, well-balanced, and with an easily-recognizable touch of friskiness which improves their aging potential.
At one time apparently doomed to disappear, these vineyards have undergone a patient, courageous, and ultimately successful restoration. Overlooking the slopes of Gevrey-Chambertin and extending as far as the wood of Corton, the Hautes Côtes de Nuits have a wild beauty.
While there are a few premier cru whites in the Cote de Nuits, all the Grand cru climats are based on Pinot Noir, which were covered last week.
Côte de Beaune and Hautes-Côte de Beaune
The entire Côte de Beaune region is split into two parallel areas with the Hautes Côte de Beaune to the west at a higher elevation. All the chateaux here grow their grapes and make and bottle the wine on their premises to insure the best quality. There are 11 Grand Cru vineyards or climats within the Côte de Beaune.
The city of Beaune lies near the heart of this region. The village of Meursault is 5 miles south, and Montrachet is right below it. These communes identify the most sought-after white Burgundies.
There are many significant communes within the Côte de Beaune, including many grand cru and premier cru climats. In the northern portion there are 6 Grand Cru climats for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Many of these climats overlap portions of three villages, which lead to confusing and nearly similar names. The villages of Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton and Ladoix-Serrigny, are also combined villages.
Pernand-Vergelesses (Pernan ver-ja-lay-sah) in the northwest corner continues the Cote de Nuits’ Pinot Noir plantings with 75% red and 25% Chardonnay. The Corton hill is shared by white and red Grand Cru with the white grapes on the top and the red grapes on the slopes.
Corton is an AOC and Grand Cru vineyard for red and white wine in Côte de Beaune subregion of Burgundy. The Corton appellation itself is the Côte de Beaune’s only Grand Cru appellation for red wine, and is the largest Grand Cru of Burgundy. 95% are Pinot Noir-based.
Corton-Charlemagne is an AOC and Grand Cru vineyard for white wine in Côte de Beaune. It is located in the communes of Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses and Ladoix-Serrigny with Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc being the only permitted grape varieties. Around 300,000 bottles of whites are produced per year.
According to legend, the vineyards are dedicated to white grape varieties because the emperor’s wife preferred white wines as they did not stain his beard. (Apparently he was a sloppy drinker. Either that or she knew this was a perfect site for Chardonnay.) The AOC was created in 1937.
The Charlemagne AOC is rarely used because of the small production of less than 1 acre.
Significant southern communes include the most famous white Burgundies and 5 Grand Cru.
Meursault, one of Burgundy’s most famous wines, has no Grand Crus, although there have been calls for Les Perrieres to be so designated. The Chardonnay wines are rich and buttery.
Montrachet (moan-tra, shay) is really two communes separated by Mont Rachaz (Scabby Hill); Puligny (po-leeny) and Chassagne (shah-sohn-je), enclosing one of the most famous vineyard sites in the world. Wines from the Chassagne side are called Le Montrachet and from the Puligny side, Montrachet.
- Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet vines are in Puligny.
- Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet vines are also in Puligny.
- Grand Cru Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet are also in Puligny.
- Grand Cru Montrachet are, no points for guessing, also in Puligny
- Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet in Chassagne
The names derives from the Medieval legend that the Lord of Puligny divided his land between his eldest son (“le chevalier”, the knight), his daughters (“les pucelles”, the maidens) and his illegitimate son (“le bâtard”, the bastard) : “Chevalier”, “Bâtard” and “Les Pucelles” became three different plots within the commune of Puligny-Montrachet. Nonetheless all the wines are legitimate.
Chardonnay Wines of the Cote d’Or
Latour Corton Charlemagne, 2019, $400 and up
“A broad and lush white, with flavors of peach, lemon oil, sweet corn and spiced apple married to a texture verging on oily. Lively, with acidity keeping this well-defined and long on the finish.” 94 points Wine Spectator
Au Pied du Mont Chauve Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2017, 13% ABV, $200
“A scented cloud of lemony creaminess constitutes the nose of this vivid wine. The palate shows earthy concentration countered by buttery creaminess. Warmth at the structured core gives focus to the lushness.” 93 points Wine Enthusiasts
Oh dear, I think we need to visit the premier cru climats. These Grand Cru climats are a bit steep and I’m not referring to the golden slopes.
AP Mont Chauve Chassage-Montrachet 1er Cru Macherelles, 2018, 13% ABV, $100
“Notes of smoke, graphite and resin give way to crisp yellow-cherry and green-plum flavors. Leaner and zestier this ripe vintage, its piercing yellow-fruit flavors against a backdrop of crushed white peppercorns and chalky minerality.” 93 points Wine Enthusiasts
Domaine Boyer Meursault, 2022, 13% ABV, $100
“Cedar, lemons, cream and hazelnuts on the nose. Salted caramel and brown butter, too. It’s full-bodied and buttery, concentrated and ripe, with excellent freshness to give it life. Why wait? Delicious now.” 93 points James Suckling. Usually these wines are laid down for years to enhance the richness.
Louis Jadot Domaine Duc de Magenta Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle Monopole, $120
(Clos de) La Chapelle Premier Cru is a subsection of the larger Morgeot vineyard. Wine-searcher.com rated this 91 points average from 155 critic reviews. Monopole as a wine term means “a designated wine-growing region controlled entirely by one winery.
Edouard Delaunay Hautes Cotes de Nuits Charmont Blanc, 12.5% ABV, $40
A touch of nougatine and candied chestnuts is followed by green notes. Brazen minerality, associated with subtle oak, shines through with scents of flint, gunflint and peat. A complex, long wine boasting remarkable freshness. Delaunay was winemaker of the year 3 times.
Decelle & Fils Hautes Cotes de Beaune Les Champlains, 13.5% ABV, $40
From the sunny hillsides surrounding Savigny Les Beaune, ‘Les Champlains’ is characterized by poor stony soil to produce a wine golden yellow in color, with beautiful aromas of white flowers and honey with a finely balanced rich and fresh palate. Savigny Les Beaune is just a little south and west of Aloxe-Corton so that’s a good neighborhood.
Depending on your passion for these wines and your bank account there is much to enjoy within the Cote d’Or.
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