This show aired on August 10, 2024, but these Syrah/Shiraz wines are perfect for the holidays or anytime. Here we contrast both old world and new world interpretations of this wonderful grape.
Old World/New World Syrah
Syrah/Shiraz is one of the great red wine grapes in the world. In the Old World where it originated over 40% come from France, over 20% from Australia where it’s the most planted red wine grape, 10% from Spain and lesser amounts in Argentina, S. Africa and the US in California and Washington State. Here we contrast the two principle styles of Northern Rhone and Australia.
The Northern Rhone Valley
The Rhone Valley follows the Rhone River, which makes sense historically because the river nurtured the soil and provided a mode of transport to markets. It also helped provide a microclimate and many of the vineyards then and now are still along the river in the northern Rhone. In contrast the much more spread out and mountainous southern Rhone forms two deltas for the Rhone to empty into the Mediterranean and joined by the Durance River has a more costal impact on the grapes and vineyards, as well as a broader range of red and white grapes.
Whereas the southern Rhone wines are primarily blends of red and white grapes such as the popular DSM blends, Northern Rhone are primarily only Syrah or Viognier-based wines. And this is an area we have only very briefly explored in the past. Nor have we featured many wines from this area, because many carry a high price tag and they are not as plentiful as an Australian Shiraz.
Another difference is that in the south there are three tiers of quality; Cote du Rhone, Cote du Rhone-Village and the Rhone Crus like Chateauneuf-Du-Pape and Gigondas. In the north, the wines are all of the Crus classification. As a result all northern Rhone wines are less plentiful and are in high demand, and are priced accordingly. Nonetheless we’ll explore a few that carry a good QPR as one has not explored all there is to know about the Syrah grape until one has tried them.
Northern Rhone subregions
There are a number of well-known subregions within Northern Rhone, and each Cru is distinctive. Only two of the subregions are on the east side of the Rhone River. Moving from north to south the major subregions for Syrah are:
- Cote Rotie is the northern-most wine region, 100% Syrah with 5-20% Viognier in blends. These are some of the most highly regarded wine in the Rhone. (Price range: $60 to $400)
- Condrieu, and is just below Cote Rotie and know for their exquisite Viognier wines. This is primarily a white grape subregion.
- Chateau Grillet is below Condrieu and as the name suggests is a single chateau that’s also a Rhone subregion, primarily planted with white grapes.
- St. Joseph great values found here in the largest subregion by area, extending over 80% of the Rhone River. Nonetheless it’s the second most planted subregion after Crozes Hermitage at 920 hectares. 91% Syrah, 9% white ($28 to $90)
- Hermitage is 76% red, 24% white and comes with a storied history. The first grapes were planted around 500BC and later named after a crusader (1200) who settled there alone on Hermit’s Hill, which obviously was named after him. I mean how many hermits can there be on Hermit Hill? Along with Cote Rotie it’s the most prestigious home for Syrah. ($60 to $350)
- Crozes-Hermitage basically surrounds Hermitage on the east side of the Rhone, opposite St. Joseph and is the most planted subregion with varied quality. It is planted to 92% red, 8% white, ($20 to $60).
- Cornas which is below St. Joseph produces the boldest and most tannic wines of the northern Rhone ($30 to $200)
- Saint Peray is the southernmost Cru and is primarily a white grape subregions
Northern Rhone Grapes
The three principal white grapes of Northern Rhone are Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, with many single varietal Viognier wines as well as classic white blends. However Syrah is the only principal red grape.
Syrah or Shiraz:
- History: In 1999, Syrah was found to be the offspring of two obscure grapes from southeastern France, Dureza (red) and Mondeuse Blanche (white). Carole Meredith of UC Davis employed DNA and ampleographic evidence, disputing claims of a Shiraz, Persia origin. She also identified the origin of Zinfandel in Croatia and the Primitivo connection.
- Terroir: The Syrah grape is influenced by where it is sited. Moderate climates like Rhone produce medium to full-bodied wines with medium-plus to high levels of tannins and notes of blackberry, mint and black pepper. In hot climates, such as the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale regions of Australia, Syrah is more consistently full-bodied with softer tannin, jammier fruit and spice notes of licorice, anise and earthy leather.
- Syrah is used in blends to add backbone (structure) and longevity as in Southern Rhone.
- In Australia Shiraz comprises 45% of total red fruit and one quarter of all wines.
- In France the third most planted red grape after Merlot and Grenache.
Northern Rhone Recommended Wines
Maison Denuziere Cornas En Sauman, 2017, 13% ABV, $70
Wine Enthusiast: “Lavish and full bodied, this intensely ripe but structured Syrah offers dense, concentrated flavors of plum compote and mulberry. A powerful wine framed by ripe, penetrating tannins, it’s a robust accompaniment now to heartier meals.” 94 points
Nobles Rives Cave de Tain Crozes Hermitage, 2015 13% ABV $25
The 2017 version was rated 92 points, but only the 2015s were left in the bin, which were rated 89-90 points. Sometimes different vintages are lumped together so knowing the vintage year is critical. The 2015 was priced around $25-30 in most venues. Nonetheless this is a nicely-aged, fine-drinking wine we’ve sampled on a past show.
“It shows flavors of olives, fruitiness, and hints of cured meats. Hints of spices permeate throughout which allows for a lovely harmonious wine.”
Maison Denuziere Cote Rotie Les Hauts Lieux, 2018, 13% ABV, $75
Wine Enthusiast: “Vibrant, perfumed Syrah…it offers a rich core of raspberry-coulis and red-currant flavors struck by crisp acidity and very fine, mouth-coating tannins. The finish lingers on a subtle kiss of smoke and cedar.” 95 points
Australian Shiraz Wines
Australian Shiraz wines originally sourced their grapes from the northern Rhone Valley. However nearly 200 years have elapsed since the first cuttings arrived and the various wine regions there have reshaped the grape into a more robust, muscular wine that carries the name Shiraz, not Syrah.
Major wine regions
In Australia there are only six wine regions, but many important subregions to explore. One could easily say that the southwest coast and the southeast extension of the country is where it’s at. The focus is on those areas making the top Shiraz since the grape is ubiquitous throughout the country.
- Western Australia: The wine growing area around Perth and the Margaret River excel at unoaked Chardonnay, Shiraz and Bordeaux blends.
- South Australia around Adelaide is known for their excellent Shiraz particularly the McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley.
- New South Wales above Victoria produces lean, mineral Shiraz and Semillon from Hunter’s Valley
West Australia Region
This area is the southernmost western part of the continent. Perth is the major city with most subregions below it. All but one faces the Indian Ocean. There are nine subregions of note, but our focus is those making good Shiraz.
Margaret River: Jutting out as the westernmost part of this region and clearly influenced by its coastal climate. The grape varieties cultivated include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sémillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. The region produces just three percent of total Australian grape production, but commands over 20 percent of the Australian premium wine market. Also a primo surfing capital with 75 breaks along its 130 km coastline, so you can surf and sip here.
What we are tasting: Miles from Nowhere 2020 Margaret River 14.5% ABV, $15
Another classic Aussie label and we all hope we’ll still be able to find the winery. It doesn’t hurt that they’ve received a ton of gold medals for their wine. The 2019 vintage garnered 92 points.
Margaret River, Australia – with a bouquet of spices and dark cherry, this highly concentrated Shiraz offers great fruit flavors with hints of nuts and toast. A lingering pepper finish makes this dry red an inviting pair with grilled beef.
Great Southern: Australia’s largest wine region a rectangle 200 kilometers from east to west and over 100 kilometers from north to south and facing the Southern Sea. It has five designated subregions. It’s known for Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot noir, Shiraz, and Malbec. Crisp expressive Riesling that can age for two decades are a mainstay.
What we are tasting: Snakes & Herring 2019 Redemption Syrah 14% ABV, $28
Boy, if that name doesn’t recall classic Aussie labels I don’t what would. And not to worry, the names are the founders, not the ingredients. One of my favorite Shiraz wines.
James Halliday: “Matured for 13 months in a variety of French formats…This is juicy…Spices like star anise and aniseed embroider the edges of the jubilant fruit. Quite delicious.” 94 points
Founders: Tony “Snake” Davis has over 25 years wine making experience across Oregon, Burgundy, and Australia. Redmond “Herring” Sweeny is an accountant by trade and a sports-mad wine addict by passion. In 2011 these two chaps met, collaborated and Snake and Herring was created.
Vineyards: The Shiraz from Mount Barker is located west of the township with gravelly low vigor soils on a ridge top with east-west rows. The Frankland component is from the ridge top of an old vineyard west of the township with a great northern aspect and well drained gravels.
South Australia Region
This could easily be called the heart of Shiraz country. A very popular wine region which has 18 subregions and produces over 50% of the country’s wines. Below are the best Shiraz areas, but any Shiraz from South Australia is a wine to consider.
Barossa Valley is synonymous with great Shiraz. A warm-growing region 38 miles north of Adelaide, it does offer cooler-climate grapes such as Riesling at higher elevations.
McLaren Vale is the third interconnected sub region around Adelaide that has achieved worldwide fame. Shiraz ripens perfectly in its Mediterranean climate, which also favors great Bordeaux blends.
Clare Valley, north of Barossa and further inland with vines planted at 1300 to 1600 ft elevation insuring cooler nights for their signature Riesling wines. Cab and Shiraz are also important grapes.
Davey Family Shiraz Estate, 2020, 14.5% ABV, $20
A fine McLaren Vale wine at a good price. An elegant and full-bodied wine.
James Suckling: “A medium-bodied and creamy textured red with blackberry, walnut and spice character. Juicy and flavorful. Delicious.” 92 points.
Knappstein Clare Valley Shiraz, 2021, 14.5% ABV, $20
James Suckling: “A poised and generous Syrah with dark cherries, dark berries, tar and chocolate on the nose. Medium-bodied with creamy tannins and texture. Round and plush with a fresh finish.” 92 points
What we are tasting: Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Barossa Shiraz 2015, 13.9% ABV, $24
The Thorn-Clarke family has been in Barossa since the 1870s. One side founded a gold mine; the other side farmed and grew grapes. About 100 hundred years later they worked the land selling grapes that won many awards so in 1998 they offered their first release. The grapes are sourced from several vineyards in Barossa and Eden Valley that each contribute to the final blend.
“Brimming with ripe plum, blackberry and date flavors intermingled with hints of vanilla, chocolate and spice. Rich and intense, with sweet ripe tannins leading to a lush and lovely finish.
For your consideration: Mollydooker Shiraz: The Boxer, 2021, 16% ABV, $28-32
This is our go-to Shiraz at Salon Saturday and it packs a punch in every sip. It’s intense and inviting with lots of luscious fruit, but not for the faint of heart. The grapes were grown on vineyards in McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek, a small subregion above Alexandria Lake which is fed by St. Vincent Gulf.
Australia- the Boxer Shiraz exhibits a black/blue/purple color, an incredible density of fruit along with that tell-tale purity, blackberries, white flowers, melted chocolate, sweet licorice, and subtle wood. Full-bodied, beautifully textured and layered with an awesome finish.
Australian Shiraz offer very good value, with true fruit intensity and more a approachable style than Rhone Syrah, but it’s worth seeking out examples of both styles.
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