This show aired on October 4, and covered crémant sparkling wines but also focusing on some lesser-known wines that are well-worth seeking out. A separate topic on folk horror films also included pairing wines with those films. That blog can be found here. The present blog is a longer, detailed one on fascinating sparkling wines you might not be familiar with, but hopefully it’s not an exhausting one.
Crémant Wines from Eastern France
By now, hopefully, many wine drinkers are familiar with Crémant sparkling wines. In the 1990s and beyond more and more folks are enjoying these varied and well-priced sparklers. Because each French wine region does distinctly different versions it’s helpful to have more details on each of the eight regional crémant wines. Since that’d take too long, I’m only covering those in eastern France and although Crémant d’Alsace is the biggest producer of this type of wine, many are below the radar with much lower production numbers than prolific Alsace.
Crémant: the Other French Sparkler
Near the end of the 1980s a new term, crémant, was defined to identify French sparkling wine from other regions. Production rules require the Méthode Champenoise process be employed and insist on hand harvesting, gentle pressing, bottle fermentation and a minimum of nine months aging on lees, but differ according to the predominant grape varieties of the respective regions. For example; in Alsace, sparklers are made from Pinot Blanc and Riesling; in Burgundy, obviously Chardonnay and Pinot Noir but also Aligoté.
The wine regions using the term ‘Crémant’ obtain clearance from INAO, France’s appellation body.
Western-Central France Crémant versions.
- Crémant de Bordeaux: Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Cab Franc
- Crémant de Bourgogne; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté
- Crémant de Loire: Primarily Chenin Blanc, but also Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc
- Crémant de Limoux is within the Languedoc region
Eastern France Crémant versions
- Crémant d’Alsace: Primarily made from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris
- Crémant de Jura is covered below
- Crémant de Die (da-de)
- Crémant de Savoie (sav-wa)
The key to Crémant wines, notably, is that they use the traditional or methode champenoise process to make their sparkling wines, well sparkle. The less expensive and labor-intensive method to induce bubbles into the bottle is the bulk or Charmat process which performs the second fermentation in a large pressurized tank and then filters the result into bottles under much lower pressure with less intense bubbles and little time en-tirage to age and improve the flavors.
Alsace Wine Region
The Alsace is situated on its boundary with Germany with the Rhine as a natural border. That border was porous with both countries claiming it; most recently Germany during WWII. That means the language, the architecture; the foods and the wine grapes all reflect two cultures. The Riesling grape is drier than in Germany and higher in alcohol for example.
Alsatian wine is very aromatic. Floral and peachy aromas tease the nostrils and tingle the palate with brilliant acidity but also possess rich texture from moderate alcohol. The producers in Alsace do not use oak aging to add spice and richness; instead relying on a balance of ripeness and alcohol to flesh out the flavor.
Geography
Alsace’s capitol city is Strasbourg. The region is in the eastern side of France in a valley along the Rhine River. The valley extends over sixty miles with the Vosges Mountains to the west. The region is divided into two parts:
- The Bas-Rhin is to the North and to the west of Strasbourg
- Haut-Rhin is to the South in low slopes of the Vosges Mountains, home to the best vineyards
Wine quality is defined by 3 major AOCs
- Alsace AOC (92% white still wines). Named grape must be 100%. White, Rose and red are permitted. Rose and red must be 100% Pinot Noir.
- Crémant d’Alsace AOC is the only AOC that allows the local Chardonnay grapes, however most of the white brut-style bubbly is made with Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Auxerrois (ox-er-wah), and Riesling. Rosé wine is a special find because it’s 100% Pinot Noir.
- Alsace Grand Cru AOC has a total of 51 grand cru plots that are only allowed to use a single variety or blend of four official grape varieties, called the Noble Grapes of Alsace: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Gewurztraminer.
Alsace grapes and Stats
- Riesling: 21.9%
- Pinot Blanc: 21.2%
- Gewürztraminer:19.4%
- Pinot Gris: 15.4%
- Pinot Noir: 9.9%
- Sylvaner: 7.5%
- Muscat: 2.3%
- Other: 2.4% Chardonnay, Auxerrois and Chasselas
As can be seen nearly 78% are the primary whites. There were 3950 acres grape production as of 2012, divided between 75% AOC, 21% Crémant and 4% Grand Cru. Recommendations follow:
Anne de K Crémant d’Alsace, Blanc de Blancs Brut, ABV 12%, $22
Cave Kientzheim Kaysersberg – Anne Boecklin, Grapes: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois blend
Wine Enthusiast -Alsace, France – “There is something lifted on the nose that translates as white currant and dried lemon peel on the palate. Autolysis provides a canvas for the fruity notes. The fine mousse supports this beautiful balance, while the dry finish shines with lasting lemon flavors.” Anne Krebiehl MW 91 points
Albrecht Cremant D’Alsace Brut Tradition Sparkling Wine, 12.5% ABV, $25
Wine Enthusiast: “Albrecht obviously has skill in sparkling wines, because this, like its partner rosé, is skillfully made, full of fruit and richness. Finishes fresh and dry.” 100% Pinot Blanc, winner of numerous gold medals and a great value alternative to Champagne. 90 points
Cremant de Die
Crémant de Die is a French appellation for dry sparkling wines from vineyards around the town of Die. The wines are made from a minimum of 55 percent Clairette, finished with an addition of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Aligoté. Originally, the wines were made exclusively from Clairette, while the other varieties were introduced late in the 20th Century. The wines generally have a particularly “grapey” taste underlying the other characteristic aromas of peach, apricot and honeysuckle.
- Crémant de Die is aged on its lees for a minimum of 12 months and has a maximum residual sugar level of 15 grams per liter. The grapes must be whole-bunch harvested rather than machine harvesters.
- Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains is a very old grape, small berries, very aromatic and fruity, contrast with Muscat of Alexandria which produces large berries.
Poulet & Fils Crémant De Die Brut, 12% ABV, $19
A 22 hectare family owned winery situated in the Rhône valley, with a sustainable approach. 25 year old vines (in average) planted on chalky-clay slopes and shale marls.
Tasting notes: Sweet naturally sparkling wine. Aromas of white peach and litchi, with a long finish with hints of honey.
Winemaking: A first complete fermentation occurs at 20°C. A second fermentation takes place with the adding of a tirage liqueur (22 g/l rectified concentrated grape musts and yeast). The bottles are stocked on racks for 36 months. The sediment is taken out by discharging and the expedition liqueur is then added to reach a level of residual sugar of 10g/l. Note the long resting time of 36 months!
Crémant de Jura
I love discovering wines and regions I haven’t experienced before, and this is the smallest wine region in France. Some of this information comes from www.wine-searcher.com, which also rates many of the producers and the typical prices of each; a very good resource to use. The map below is courtesy of Wine-searcher.com.
Crémant du Jura is an appellation established in 1995 that covers sparkling, méthode traditionnelle, white and rosé wines made in the mountainous Jura region of eastern France. Sparkling wines have been made in such a manner in the Jura since the 18th Century. It was previously sold as vin mousseux, under the region’s other appellations.
The production area of Crémant du Jura is identical to Côtes du Jura, its counterpart for still wines. This includes 105 communes in total, stretching nearly 50 miles from Champagne-sur-Loue in the north to Saint-Amour in the south.
Roughly 520 acres of vines produce these sparkling wines and constitute one in four of all bottles sold by Jura wineries.
- Wines are a combination of Chardonnay and Savagnin and the darker-skinned Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau.
- Crémant du Jura Blanc must contain a minimum 70 percent of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau. Crémant du Jura rosé must contain at least 50 percent of the gris or noir grapes.
- Aged with their lees for a minimum of nine months. The wines must spend minimum of 12 months in the cellars before release.
Jura Grapes
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are well-known grapes although the terroir of Jura does affect the unique flavors they possess in the glass. The other three require a bit more description.
Savagnin: This green, thick-skinned grape has a fascinating history going back 900 years. It’s a signature grape of Jura, also known as Traminer. Vin Jaune (vaun joan) is made exclusively with Savagnin, done in a Sherry-like flor system. It has a citrus, floral character with crisp acidity.
Poulsard: This is a small thin-skinned grape from Arbois, subregion of Jura. The wines are rustic, garnet colored, wafting flavors of mushrooms, raspberries, dragon fruit, and strawberries, all enshrouded with a funkiness that is best described as “distinctly French.” It’s a light alcohol red, but quite rare.
Trousseau: Also Trousseau Noir, also known as Bastardo, Merenzao, and Verdejo Negro, is a red wine grape originating in the Jura region of eastern France. It’s pale and light-bodied with intense, rich alcohol levels. It has a firm tannic grip with depth and yet weightlessness. It has aromas of deep cherry, violets, strawberry, orange marmalade, lemon peel, nutmeg, black pepper, ripe cheese, seafoam, cured meats, and aged game. It has a chewy and pithy texture with a creamy soft silky finish.
Trousseau thrives in Jurassic soil compositions that are well-drained and limestone-laden with schist plus sand over granite and slate. Interestingly enough, the term Jurassic originated for the first geological studies of the Jura Mountains – Jurassique
For your consideration: Tissot-Maire Crémant de Jura, Brut Lapiaz, 12% ABV, $18
Located in Arbois, Tissot-Maire specializes in Crémant. Founded in 1896 by Joseph Tissot, the House of Tissot became partners in the early 2000s with Henri Maire, another major Jura family. Domaine Maire et Fils began its long wine journey in 1632 – nearly 400 years ago. By combining their two houses, Tissot-Maire claims to have the largest wine-growing estate in the Jura region.
Brut is a level of sweetness comparable to off dry. Lapiaz (La-pee-us) is a nod to the eroded limestone geological formations found in Jura. According to Tissot-Maire, Brut Lapiaz symbolizes “the rough and rustic climate of the Jura which gives our Crémant du Jura its unique style…” This is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay.
Award tasting note: “Lively mousse, very fresh with orange peel and elegant, creamy fruit. Good texture and long length. – Panel Chair: Matthew Stubbs MW , Co-Chair: Anne Krebiehl MW” – Silver, International Wine Challenge
Michel Tissot Cotes du Jura Savagnin Nature, 13% ABV, $28
While obviously not a sparkling wine, this 100% Savagnin wine is by a Vin Jaune producer, but done in fresh, non-oxidative style and a perfect way to experience what the grape is all about. The Michel Tissot website notes are below.
Far away from the oxidative wines with which the Savagnin grape variety is generally associated, this Côtes du Jura is a wine of great freshness, with lovely, airy white flowers notes.
The palate is as elegant as the nose, nicely blending richness, roundness and freshness and offering a great aromatic presence with a floral and iodized structure.
Crémant de Savoie
The Savoie wine region straddles the border with Switzerland along the Alps and Lake Geneva. Their vineyards are planted in pre-alpine areas at 250-600m above sea level. They produce mostly white wines (70%), some reds (20%) with a bit of rose (6%) and sparkling (4%), called Cremant de Savoie.
This small subregion, with vineyards at the foot of the Alps that occasionally climb to higher elevations, is defined by its mountain-influenced climate and extremely rocky terrain, with abundant limestone. Thanks to a diversity of indigenous grape varieties, with the choicest parcels—steep and well-exposed— can craft anything from crisp, low-alcohol whites from Jacquère to deep, gamey reds from Mondeuse.
The most distinct whites from the region are Altesse (also known as Roussette) and Jacquere. There’s also Chardonnay, Bergeron (Roussanne in the Rhone Valley), Mondeuse Blanche, and Chasselas, which is more famous in Switzerland. The most common red is Mondeuse Noire, which is related to Syrah, but a lighter-bodied Syrah with similar color, fruit profile and spicy touches.
- Crémant de Savoie was authorized in 2014
- Savoie, (sav-wa) is in the French department of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in eastern France, below Jura; an area of isolated vineyards of about 2,000 Ha.
Crémant de Savoie Brut Nature (André & Michel Quenard), 12% ABV, $32 Kermit Lynch
Combine the Jacquère grape with a process very similar to that of Champagne, and you get a beautiful crémant filled with notes of stone fruit, citrus, and chalk. Open this the next time you’re in the mood for a graceful sparkler.—Tom Wolf
While some of these sparklers, other than Alsace, are more difficult to find you’ll be rewarded by unique tasting profiles and might discover a new favorite. Salut!
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