This show aired on November 16 as we were getting ready for Thanksgiving. The wines of Loire Valley beckoned as they were perfect wines for turkey day, but good wines at good value any time of year. Taking a tour through the Loire Valley one notes that the result of warmer weather in this very long valley means better grapes; more abundant and fully-ripe. That leads to better wines and more varied than in its long history as a wine region. Since the Loire is also Jean D’Arc country I’m including a list of the best movies on her life.
Loire Regional Wines
I had not focused on the Loire Valley for a while, so I’m correcting that. My first-time visiting France, I loved the Muscadet wines of the Loire Valley. In fact, they are still some of my favorite seafood wines. The Loire Valley is known more for its whites and Rosé wines, but the warmer weather has also produced many excellent reds worth checking out.
Loire Valley Geography
The Loire Valley spans 174 miles and is located in the middle stretch of the Loire River in central France. The Loire River at 625 miles is the largest in France. The area of the Loire Valley comprises about 500 square miles so this is one big valley. The vineyards of the Loire span approximately 185,000 acres covering 14 departments along the way. The Loire is the 3rd largest wine region in France and the third largest sparkling wine region as well.
The river empties into the Atlantic, while the port of Nantes is 30 miles upriver. There are four geographically-defined regions within the valley, and each produces its own unique wines.
- Since the Loire is navigable for shipping, its wines have been known for centuries
- The Atlantic and the rivers have a significant impact on terroir
- Northern France weather; slightly north and west of Burgundy and warmer of late
- Loire wines defined by bracing acidity and food pairing ability
- Red grapes: Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Grolleau and Pinot Noir
- White Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, and Chenin Blanc
Lower Loire
This is the northwestern area encompassing Nantes. Lower refers to where the river terminates at the Atlantic. This is home to Muscadet which often captures the scent of the sea in its best wines. Melon de Bourgogne, or simply Melon is the grape used to make these wines. Muscadet, Sevre-et-Maine is a key area, near the Atlantic and often done sur lie, meaning the lees (lower sediment in the tank) are continually stirred to enrich the wine and add a creamier mouthfeel. Approximately 32,000 acres.
O de Mer Muscadet, 2021, 12.5% ABV, $12
“Highly aromatic nose of lemon, blossoms and tropical fruits. A very clean and crisp style wine made from 100% melon de bourgogne. Refreshing with lively acidity on the palate.” Beverage Dynamics 91 points.
Middle Loire- Saumur-Anjou
The portion of the river between Angers and Tours is the middle Loire. Both red and white wine grapes are located here and many of its most famous wines. This region is further sub-divided into the Saumur Anjou to the west and the Touraine further east. The Middle-Loire produces sweet and dry, sparkling red, rose, and white wines.
Saumur-Champigny is a dynamic appellation made up of 3,900 acres just southeast of the castle town of Saumur. It reflects the changes that Loire Valley Cabernet Franc has undergone over the last 25 years. In part a benefit of climate change that extends the growing season to fully ripen the fruit.
Once the source of low-alcohol wines for Paris bars, Saumur-Champigny now produces rich, pure expressions with complexity allied to wonderfully pure red-fruit cores.
- Leading wines: Rosé d’ Anjou, Saumur-Champigny
- Savenniéres produces some of the best Chenin Blanc in the world. (If you’ve only had California Chenin Blanc, you really haven’t had Chenin Blanc.)
- Rosé d’ Anjou, from Grolleau and Gamay grapes produce rich, off-dry Rosé wines
- Saumur is the main source of sparkling wines outside Champagne and Alsace: Crémant de Loire
Bougrier La Rosee Cabernet d’Anjou Rosé, 2023, 11% ABV, $15
This Rosé is 100% Cabernet Franc. “Taught nose of blackcurrant leaf, red currant and cherry, ripe red fruit on the palate. Medium-sweet Rosé with notes of strawberry and English candy. Serve as an aperitif or with spicy foods or a berry dessert.” Decanter 93 points
Olema Brut Sparkling Wine, 12% ABV, $20
“Blended from equal parts Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, this wine is richly fruited with flavors of Anjou pears, deepened by an oxidative edge. Nervy acidity keeps it all firm as the flavors resolve into floral-scented bruised apples.” Wine & Spirits 92 points
Deligeroy Cremant De Loire Rosé Sparkling Wine, 12.5% ABV, $21
“It opens to fresh and inviting aromas of sweet strawberries and cherries, which are woven together with hints of toasted brioche and mineral nuances. On the palate this displays lovely overall balance with fine bubbles that keep it fresh and invigorating.” Int’l Wine Report 91 points
Reserve des Vignerons Saumur Champigny Cabernet Franc, 12.5% ABV, $16
“An aromatic red of 100% Cabernet Franc, with juicy notes of blackcurrant and blackberry supported by crisp notes of herb. Fresh and racy, it will pair well with poultry and lighter red meat dishes.
Middle Loire-Touraine
This subregion surrounds the city of Tours and follows the river’s northern excursion to the city of Orléans before it heads south. This is Jean D’Arc country as she was known as the Maid of Orléans and led her army to capture the city in a major battle despite being wounded.
- Cabernet Franc: Chinon, Bourgueuil, St. Nicolas-de-Bourgueuil are all known for elegant, age-worthy wines.
- The monks of Bourgueuil Abby planted Cabernet Franc in the 10th century. Mid-slope wines are the biggest, lower slope the brightest fruit.
- Saint-Nicolas vineyards are mainly on the sand and gravel alluvial plain of the Loire’s north banks. These sites produce the lightest style of Cabernet Franc of the four appellations.
- Vouvray Chenin Blanc wines are dry to sweet and also done as a wonderful sparkler. These are richly flavored and honeyed wines.
Chinon wine and history
Over the years, the Royal Fortress of Chinon overlooking the Vienne has played host to countless kings and princes, from the Plantagenet’s to Richelieu. In 1429, Charles VII received Joan of Arc here; her mission was to convince him to re-conquer the Kingdom of France.
The town of Chinon is situated on the banks of the River Vienne of the Touraine district. The vineyards of the Chinon AOC (Est. 1937) are on relatively steep banks of the river and the less steep slopes running northward from the hills above Chinon to the Loire. The vineyards consist almost entirely of erosion scree and gravels on top of rather hard Turonian limestone. Toward the Loire itself, this gives way to the Jurassic rock of the Loire.
In total 3,700 acres produce reds and rosés made from Cabernet Franc, although up to 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon is permitted. Typically dry and light to medium bodied. In good vintages the red wines can be cellared for 10 years or more.
Depending on where sited the wines can be light and fruity or more tannic with high minerality. They also develop a velvety depth of spice flavors as they age. Though typically thought of as lighter wines, reds from good producers and strong vintages can be full bodied and well structured for aging.
- Aromas of roasted red pepper, raspberry sauce, jalapeño, raspberry compote, and wet gravel.
- On palate: sour cherry, smoky tomato, dried oregano, and sweet pepper, finish short
Cuvee Signee Chinon Cabernet Franc, 2022, 12.5% ABV, $18
“Aromatics of raspberries and red plums followed by nuances of spices, dried soil and hints of tobacco and wet stones all taking shape in the glass, beautifully balanced. It continues to impress with its sleek texture and core of fresh fruit.” Int’l Wine Report 91 points
Bougrier ‘V’ Vouvray Chenin Blanc, 2022, 11.5% ABV, $16
“A clean and balanced white with apples, lemons, fresh herbs and touches of honey. Medium body with fresh acidity. Succulent, yet it has an oily texture and a sweetness to it, especially in the finish. Comforting and delicious. Drink now” James Suckling 90 points
Vignobles Lacheteau Touraine 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, 11.5% ABV, $6.99
Elegant, well-balanced and fresh with complex notes of exotic citric fruits. This is a Trader Joe’s selection that really impressed me (of course I bought more) and is a classic Touraine Sauvignon Blanc. I stocked up for the holidays, but this one works all the time and so does the price.
Vignobles Lacheteau Chinon 2023 Cabernet Franc, 12.5% ABV, $8.99
Another good Trader Joe’s Loire wine. Here is the Reverse Wine Snob’s take on it, on which I agree.
“Opens with a pleasing aroma of black cherry, a bit of green pepper and some other herbal notes along with a touch of mint and balsa wood. It’s an attractive start. Tasting the smooth, medium-bodied wine reveals it to be nice and easy to drink with similar flavors to the nose. It’s not super deep but it hits a lot of good notes, especially for the price.”
Jean D’Arc Movies
Since we’re in Jean D’Arc country, I’ve included the best movies based on her life that are a perfect accompaniment to the wines. I’ll leave it to you to pair the foods, but Loire cheeses are a good way to start. You can jump to Central Loire here if you prefer to skip this part.
I’ve read a history of Joan of Arc that claimed she was more than an inspiration to the French, but also a brilliant military tactician, and a fearless fighter that believed God was directing her. Whether one believes that or not, she is deeply revered in the Loire and you will see her influence in many places if you’re lucky enough to visit.
The Passion of Joan of Arc (1928): Dir Carl Theodor Dreyer, Maria Falconetti, Eugene Silvain
In 1431, Jeanne d’Arc is placed on trial on charges of heresy. The ecclesiastical jurists attempt to force Jeanne to recant her claims of holy visions. This was Falconetti’s only role and one of the greatest of all time. Metascore 98 (that’s about as high a score as any movie gets from this group of film critics.)
Joan of Arc (1948): Dir Victor Fleming, Ingrid Bergman, José Ferrer, Selena Royle
The abbreviated life of the 15th-century French heroine. Bergman was very compelling, nominated for Best Actress in the role in a lavish spectacle. She also starred in a musical, Joan of Arc at the stake (1954).
Joan of Arc (1990): Dir Keith Cheetham/Werner Herzog/Henning von Gierke, Renato Bruson, Susan Dunn, Vincenzo La Scola
Director Werner Herzog joins forces with the great Italian conductor Riccardo Chailly for a masterful rendition of this rarely performed opera involving spectacular scenes of alternating light and darkness, pageantry and intimacy. TV Movie
The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc (1999): Dir Luc Besson, Milla Jovovich, John Malkovich
The second film with Jovovich after Besson’s The Fifth Element (1997), which sees her as a warrior whose hatred of the English comes when her village is raided and her sister killed. The movie is too long and takes a while establishing itself, but I admit I’d watch Jovovich in anything.
Joan of Arc (1999): Leelee Sobieski, Chad Willett, Peter O’Toole
Spurred by divine voices and visions, fifteenth century teen Joan d’Arc leads French forces against the English. TV Mini Series of 2 episodes. Sobieski is fine in the title role, but hard to believe as a warrior of God, but a good cast and production.
Centre Loire Valley
The Centre Loire drops back to the latitude of the Touraine. The Cher River is a tributary of the Loire that feeds the more western areas of Quincy and Reuilly. Sancerre and Pouilly Fume face each other across the Loire River to the east, nearly 300 miles from the Atlantic. These are all Sauvignon Blanc-based wines.
- Sauvignon Blanc wines are all racy gunflint, herbal with smoky flavors.
- Sauvignon comes from the French sauvage meaning wild
- The Fumé is said to come from the silex flint interspersed with the limestone in the area that can give a smoky gunflint note to the wine.
- Another possibility for the name is the early morning fog created by the Loire River that can blanket the vineyards.
- Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc in 1968 as a nod to the fame of the mineral-rich wines made from Sauvignon Blanc and other California winemakers followed.
- Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc is my favorite and really captures the essence of Loire wines.
Pascal Thomas Pouilly Fume, 2022, 13% ABV, $27-$30
“It has character, depth and poise. The aromatic nose suggests green pear, dried hay, lemon peel and quince. On the palate the dry, just-shy-of-full-bodied wine flirts with minerality before embracing warm-weather fruit concentration on the long finish.” Wine Enthusiast 91 points
Domaine Salmon Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc, 13% ABV, $35
“Made from old vines, which intensifies the flavor, this estate-bottled wine is a fine expression of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s refreshingly zesty with crisp notes of citrus and minerals, dry and complex.
Le Pre Vaujour Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc, 13% ABV, $35
“Vibrant bursts of citrus liven up the soft bed of white flower notes in this dry wine from the Central Loire. Its medium body and pleasant finish pair well with foods such as fish, poultry, and cheese – especially goat cheese.” A Total Wine expert pick.
The Loire Valley wines have only gotten better over the last dozen years and well-worth seeking out for quality and cost. Salut!
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